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 Replies: 76 / Views: 10,334 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4038 Posts |
Another convert! I personally don't really care what shutter speed the camera chooses. The Canon EFSC eliminates all shaking, and as long as the speed is "reasonable", ie shorter than a second or so, there is no impact on my workflow. It's not like my coin is crawling around or cleaning itself.
Edited by rmpsrpms
06/10/2015 08:41 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1476 Posts |
Quote:
It's not like my coin is crawling around or cleaning itself.  |
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Valued Member
 United States
430 Posts |
So I received a Nikon M5 microscope objective and the RMS adapter a few weeks ago. So here are a few pics. First a 75mm lens with the shot only cropped square. Then 2 shots with a 50mm lens, and finally the same area taken with the Nikon M5. 75mm  Now 50mm   Now Nikon M5   I think the M5, unstacked, lacks the clarity of the 50mm lens. Obviously, the M5 produces a more magnified image. So its on to experimenting with stacking to make this sharper. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Wizzy...all those shots look excellent. It looks like you have a very good copy of the 50mm lens. Sharp and detailed, and you nailed the focus. The in-focus areas of the M5 are nice and sharp but overall you are correct, it needs stacking. A 3-stack is probably sufficient but likely 4 or 5 would be better. When stacking manually, you have the advantage of using Live View to make sure you are critically-focused on the important features you want to be sharp in the final image. This way you can minimize the number of images required. You can also visually determine the DOF during this process and adjust accordingly.
One piece of advice...The front chrome piece on the M5 is just a trim ring, and purely cosmetic. If you remove it, you can get a bit higher angle with your lighting...Ray
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at: http://macrocoins.com |
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
another thing you have told me I can remove! I'm on it thanks for the advice. I searching through old posts for free stacking software this week.
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
I know there are some blown out spots on the 1st picture, but I'm kind of lazy with post production stuff. Is there a big advantage to using more than 2 lights to limit overblown areas prior to taking the shot?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
Adding diffusion on the 2 lights can reduce the over-exposed areas by spreading the light out more. Is usually better than adding a 3rd light IMO but there are times when a 3rd light (or reflector) is necessary if you don't want to do PP.
CombineZP is the best free stacking software I know of.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2784 Posts |
Wizzy1 great shots and that is some coin. really like that you are really getting great shots. I am finely starting to get this stuff and understand how to get better shots again nice coin
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
My first stack. A shot of the Full head on a 1917 SLQ. Whole obverse  Full head stack using CombineZP  I used all six methods to stack and picked the best one. Its a little intimidating to use. I'll have to compare this shot to the 50mm cropped. It's much easier to light the coin with the 50 mm lens. |
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
That coin makes me weak. What an amazing SLQ. And *that's* the beauty of this kind of photography - you can present a coin like this in all its' glory, as it deserves. Images like these drag new collectors into the hobby.  |
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
50 mm lens (Rodenstock El-Omegar) uncropped view  Cropped  |
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
Wrong forum. Anyone else ever notice blue specks on Standing Liberty quarters. I have a few that have them. In these shots they are in front of liberty's forehead, front of the cap, and at the back of the jaw line. |
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
I just got it, Dave. Its graded MS-63. Heritages photos didn't do it justice its a real undergrade.
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Valued Member
United States
430 Posts |
Did I do the stack wrong? I took multiple shots moving the entire camera body and lens. In the other thread austrowiki said only the lens moves. Which is the correct method?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4038 Posts |
None of the methods are "wrong", just have different efficacies. You can move the whole camera plus lens, just the camera while keeping lens fixed (using bellows or rear focus helicoid), move just the lens while keeping camera fixed (using bellows or front focus helicoid), or keep the whole setup fixed and move the coin! Each method has its pros and cons and those change depending on the magnification. I remember seeing a table that someone put together that outlined the best method vs different magnifications. I'll see if I can find it. By the way, excellent work on the SLQ. My only suggestion for improvement is to turn down the EV by 1/3 or 2/3 to eliminate the few blown-out highlights that exist. Here is a pic of those highlights:  |
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Replies: 76 / Views: 10,334 |
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Posted 06/10/2015 1:44 pm
