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Another Coin Photographer Down The Rabbit Hole.

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Wizzy1's Avatar
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430 Posts
 Posted 06/10/2015  02:45 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Ok, I've shot some pics in Av. This is easier, no constant WB adjustment. I was also worried since no shutter speed is shown in the slot. But now I notice the picked shutter speed flashes when you take the picture.
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 Posted 06/10/2015  08:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Another convert! I personally don't really care what shutter speed the camera chooses. The Canon EFSC eliminates all shaking, and as long as the speed is "reasonable", ie shorter than a second or so, there is no impact on my workflow. It's not like my coin is crawling around or cleaning itself.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
Edited by rmpsrpms
06/10/2015 08:41 am
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Dar's Avatar
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1476 Posts
 Posted 06/10/2015  1:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Dar to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply


Quote:
It's not like my coin is crawling around or cleaning itself.


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Wizzy1's Avatar
United States
430 Posts
 Posted 06/20/2015  01:51 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
So I received a Nikon M5 microscope objective and the RMS adapter a few weeks ago. So here are a few pics. First a 75mm lens with the shot only cropped square. Then 2 shots with a 50mm lens, and finally the same area taken with the Nikon M5.
75mm


Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.
Now 50mm


Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.

Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.

Now Nikon M5


Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.

Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.

I think the M5, unstacked, lacks the clarity of the 50mm lens. Obviously, the M5 produces a more magnified image. So its on to experimenting with stacking to make this sharper.
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 Posted 06/20/2015  09:24 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Wizzy...all those shots look excellent. It looks like you have a very good copy of the 50mm lens. Sharp and detailed, and you nailed the focus. The in-focus areas of the M5 are nice and sharp but overall you are correct, it needs stacking. A 3-stack is probably sufficient but likely 4 or 5 would be better. When stacking manually, you have the advantage of using Live View to make sure you are critically-focused on the important features you want to be sharp in the final image. This way you can minimize the number of images required. You can also visually determine the DOF during this process and adjust accordingly.

One piece of advice...The front chrome piece on the M5 is just a trim ring, and purely cosmetic. If you remove it, you can get a bit higher angle with your lighting...Ray
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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Wizzy1's Avatar
United States
430 Posts
 Posted 06/20/2015  6:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
another thing you have told me I can remove! I'm on it thanks for the advice. I searching through old posts for free stacking software this week.
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Wizzy1's Avatar
United States
430 Posts
 Posted 06/20/2015  6:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I know there are some blown out spots on the 1st picture, but I'm kind of lazy with post production stuff. Is there a big advantage to using more than 2 lights to limit overblown areas prior to taking the shot?
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 Posted 06/20/2015  7:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Adding diffusion on the 2 lights can reduce the over-exposed areas by spreading the light out more. Is usually better than adding a 3rd light IMO but there are times when a 3rd light (or reflector) is necessary if you don't want to do PP.

CombineZP is the best free stacking software I know of.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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Canada
2784 Posts
 Posted 06/20/2015  8:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rocky to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Wizzy1 great shots and that is some coin. really like that you are really getting great shots. I am finely starting to get this stuff and understand how to get better shots again nice coin
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Wizzy1's Avatar
United States
430 Posts
 Posted 07/07/2015  12:01 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My first stack. A shot of the Full head on a 1917 SLQ.
Whole obverse


Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.
Full head stack using CombineZP


Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.

I used all six methods to stack and picked the best one.
Its a little intimidating to use. I'll have to compare this shot to the 50mm cropped. It's much easier to light the coin with the 50 mm lens.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 07/07/2015  12:12 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
That coin makes me weak. What an amazing SLQ. And *that's* the beauty of this kind of photography - you can present a coin like this in all its' glory, as it deserves. Images like these drag new collectors into the hobby.
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Wizzy1's Avatar
United States
430 Posts
 Posted 07/07/2015  12:15 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
50 mm lens (Rodenstock El-Omegar) uncropped view


Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.

Cropped


Another-Coin-Photographer-Down-The-Rabbit-Hole.
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Wizzy1's Avatar
United States
430 Posts
 Posted 07/07/2015  12:22 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Wrong forum. Anyone else ever notice blue specks on Standing Liberty quarters. I have a few that have them. In these shots they are in front of liberty's forehead, front of the cap, and at the back of the jaw line.
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Wizzy1's Avatar
United States
430 Posts
 Posted 07/07/2015  12:24 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I just got it, Dave. Its graded MS-63. Heritages photos didn't do it justice its a real undergrade.
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Wizzy1's Avatar
United States
430 Posts
 Posted 07/07/2015  09:19 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Wizzy1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Did I do the stack wrong? I took multiple shots moving the entire camera body and lens. In the other thread austrowiki said only the lens moves. Which is the correct method?
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