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 Replies: 22 / Views: 3,145 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1195 Posts |
I'd be patient and pass on both. The 42 is a common proof merc (relative to others in the series). There will be plenty more out there.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Agree. I don't really like either one of them (the obverse field spot on #2 bothers me as well).
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Pillar of the Community
 Canada
5402 Posts |
You missed the most obvious choice #3 neither thank you very much. This is a good example of wait and have patience until a better example comes along. No clue how either of those got CAC. The first has enviro probs, with the black spots. Most likely due to a sneeze attack years ago or a poor dipping. Coin two also has a spot and zero eye appeal.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3210 Posts |
If you can't wait buy #2....but as pacific said there are nicer ones out there. Your call.
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Pillar of the Community
  United States
5828 Posts |
Thanks guys, I think I'll wait for now. Plus, I found a nice M1 helmet on ebay I'm bidding on. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Good choice. Neither one really should have been in a slab unless noted as having problems for a Proof. I've got all teh Mercury dime proofs and none look that bad. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
11951 Posts |
I voted second coin, but it would have to be a real killer
price for me to buy it.
If the price was close to a problem free, better eye appeal
coin, than I would wait for a better coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5828 Posts |
Oh, yeah it's $180 with free shipping for the second one, FYI.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
12057 Posts |
2nd has better eye appeal. There seems to be some misconception that proof coins never tone or get spots. That's definitely not the case.
Member ANA - EAC - TNA - SSDC - CCT #890 "Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5833 Posts |
Preferred 2nd one also, but hold off if you can.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3546 Posts |
 Alpha2814 Also, three things pop out to me on the 1st one: 1) I know it may be a long shot but does anyone see some slight (w/o a shelf-like appearance) notching on the bottom of the 'A' in 'STATES'? It is very possible to have both a DDR and MD on the same coin. 2) That small perpendicular line connecting to the rim under the 'E' of 'UNITED' is not normal; the same goes for the right portion of the 'D' in 'DIME'. Are they devices with metallic height, a class of crack, or simply environmental growth of some sort etc? 3) I would like to see a tighter close-up photo of the middle bands on the fasces(a word originating from the Etruscan society-just side note of interest...): especially the right portion which appears to be obscured from shadowing. A SB (split band) may exist lending itself to a more lucrative piece. No TPG will indicate any additional advantageous feature unless 'attribution' is requested and paid for. IMO PS: Some of my highest graded proof coins(higher than a PR66) appeared three times worse than this one but PCGS still gave the nod and slabbed them for latter resale with a very handsome profit. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1450 Posts |
Save your dimes and buy a 1916-D or 1921-D? Why buy common coins in proof condition? I don't understand buying common coins in proof condition for big money when if you save a little bit you can buy a more rare coin. Save and buy a $5 gold coin.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6370 Posts |
Quote:
Save your dimes and buy a 1916-D or 1921-D? Why buy common coins in proof condition? I don't understand buying common coins in proof condition for big money when if you save a little bit you can buy a more rare coin. Save and buy a $5 gold coin. A proof merc is only marginally more common than a 1916 D, but the for the same price you could get a shiny, high-grade proof merc or a piece of crap 1916 D dime. I say screw the crappy, low-grade key date as it will probably collapse in value as more collectors switch to type sets. If you can find a $5 gold for the price of a PR-65/66 merc, then I'll take whatever you've got. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Here is something to think about. A 1942 Mercury dime Proof has a mintage of 22,329 A 1916D has a mintage of 264,000 A 1921D has a mintage of 1,080,000 If you went by mintage quantity, you would think the Proof would be worth a lot more. All regardless of grade of course. As usual though there are a lot more collectors that need or want the 16D for their collections. Not a real lot of people need or want the Mercury dime Proof obviously. One thing so far not mentioned is are these coins in some type of container. If so, all those marks may well be from whatever it is in. I really don't understand all the problems with the rims on both. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5828 Posts |
UPDATE: I have decided not to get either, I figure I'll hold off on that for now... I also spent some of the money that I was going to use to buy the coin with anyways (lol) Heres what I bought if you're wondering:  Its a US M1917 A1 WW1/ early WW2 army helmet. Sellers pics, cant wait to get it in hand. |
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Replies: 22 / Views: 3,145 |
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Posted 06/03/2016 4:47 pm
