1921 Pitted Morgan

That looks just like it after carefull examination, Thanks SuperD

If you retire SuperDave you'll have to send me all of your coins so I can keep up your good work.

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If you retire SuperDave you'll have to send me all of your coins so I can keep up your good work.

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I sold almost all of them last year. The pics are all from my archives. Sorry.

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Do you think it's worth the grading fee?

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That's iffy. You'd want it attributed on the slab, and that means NGC or ANACS (PCGS doesn't attribute this one), plus the extra cost of the attribution. I can't tell from the pics if the coin is Uncirculated or not; if so, it'll probably go MS63. 1921-P VAM's aren't a really hot item, for the most part, and demand doesn't drive the price up much.

miterman,

I have yet to send a coin to a grading company. Why should I pay somebody to tell me what I already know. Somebody who knows what they are buying and can determine the grade for themselves, will probably pay the premium whether it is slabbed or not. I keep my nice coins in air-tight coin holders and I am happy with them that way.

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Somebody who knows what they are buying and can determine the grade for themselves, will probably pay the premium whether it is slabbed or not.

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I would respectfully differ with that opinion, with regard to today's coin market. Especially in the case of error coins or those worth any decent money, many (possibly most) buyers would question why a coin which *should* (by their own opinions) be in a slab is not in a slab. Coin collecting has morphed beyond the days when almost any collector was a capable grader; there are plenty out there who only believe it's a 65 if PCGS says so.

So, although your statement is completely true, it also discounts a sizable percentage of the market who wouldn't be interested in the coin, raw. By all means, keep them raw if you're going to keep them. I do. But as always, I strongly advise slabbing anything you intend to sell that's worth more than $250, and any attributable error that's worth $100.

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I have not yet reached the point where I want to sell any of them. Maybe when I shift to SELL mode I will consider grading.

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There's nothing wrong with your thinking. It worked for the first 150 years of numismatics, and it works today. There are plenty of collectors who are perfectly capable of drawing their own conclusions about coins, even in a photograph-only environment like ebay. Furthermore, they are still the majority in most classes of collecting between the VF and MS stage - one can effectively sell decent coins if properly pictured. Not to blow my own horn, but I have no problem, given the kind of pictures I take, with getting respectable prices for raw coins on ebay.

But if I were selling Mint State gold, or Registry-level coins, or Proofs out of the original packaging, or errors, I would be absolutely certain to employ respectable slabs as a business tool.

So, like everything I say (), there's an exception to the rule. Hone your photography skills to the point where the quality of your coins is obvious, speak about them truthfully in the sale, and back them up with an unconditional warranty, and you can sell whatever you want, wherever you want to. It's another illustration of the wonderful variety of our hobby - there's no one right way to do it.

I guess having it attributed correctly would help it sell for more money in the long run if I decide to sell.
I'm probably going to hold onto it for awhile and enjoy it.
Thanks for all the opinions.