1960 D (Lmc)i Just Got 2 More Mini Skirt. Both From 1960 D LMC Yeah

Thanks Spruett001 and E-n-V

Congrats Bate I find one and then you go and find 2 - that's the way to do it

Just a die chip. Pretty common that year. Check to see if on the examples you've found it the mint mark is in the same location. If so, you are finding examples from the same die. If they are different, then they are from different dies.

It is on each coin. Make a few marks to see if the locations are the same. Or of they are obvious, then look for markers. Die scratches that maybe in the same places on each coin. You may have stumbled on to someone stash they got rid of with all the same die pair? This is where you need to be creative. You spot raised die scratches, cracks, chips and note them. Then check the other coins to see if they are showing the same thing.




You just have to find what is in common, or it nothing is in common between the coins. If the size of the skirts are the same. (they can grow longer on later die states as the die wears or chips even more)

Bate -- I had said but then removed from my comment: If you see this chip
on an unc or AU coin you wouldn't call it a miniskirt..
But that works fine with the more worn examples..

Swamp

Looks like we need a thread on light diffusion on coins? I've been kicking the idea of photo editing also. Give others the ability to make great presentations. Help them to see the benefits of being able to show what they want us they see to see.

Some will get rid of the original light soon. That helps the images get better quick. My light on my scope, lasted 12 hours before I realized there had to be something better and I proceeded to set you what I used before on the new scope. The key to removing glare. is to cut it off before it hits the coin. Doesn't take much. A plastic grocery bag between where the light is on the coin is. Cut the glare. The glare from too much light can be dimmed also with white computer paper again before it hits the coin. Even secondary lighting can be but with tape on a facial tissue when you've determined the direction. Sometimes shutting off a light while you taking images is the solution. I live modestly, so I try everything to get the desired results. Sometimes something will happen by accident, then you need to figure out what worked, or what didn't work.

Yup.. No onboard lighting on the above, nor most of the time.. There are times I need to turn it on just enough to open up a shadow, but using it at all really flattens depth..

At the moment I'm using one of those Wally-World don't-stock-'em-in-store $5.87 gooseneck clip-on LED with diffusion disk jobbies that's like 3.5W and still insanely too bright cos I have it clipped on to one side of the base-back n goosed over to the other, which keeps everything pretty much in balance.. Have a piece of white T-shirt gumbanded snug over top of but not touching the diffusion disk. I then aim that through anywhere from two to four layers of Bounty white paper towels that're halfway between light and subject and am using a white envelope opposite side to reflect back onto subject, which creates my secondary lighting source without the use of any additional lights.. Works well for opening up the shadow areas most of the time.. Even with all that I still get hot spots, but pretty exclusive to unc / shiny copper.. No problems (usually) with coppers that're "broke in.."

The above stuff I did shoot a bit hot to try to highlight around the chips, which happened.. And the date/mm is just what the setup was at the time..

Swamp

EDIT: Bate,