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 Replies: 20 / Views: 3,420 |
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Rest in Peace
United States
5375 Posts |
I don't even agree with a PO-1 grade for the coin because most of the central design is intact. It seems TPG's love to give lower end AG/FR coins PO or FR just because theyre more worn. |
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Rest in Peace
 United States
4849 Posts |
Yeah, I think they may have silently netted it for the deep hairlines; though I have noticed that NGC seems to be the strictest graders of this key.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1882 Posts |
Like wheatguy said, worth a few hundred in the slab (current bidder would pay $253 with BP). And because of all the faked mint marks out there, harder to sell outside the slab.
Recent about good's ranging $550-$750. So will this one hit $400?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2734 Posts |
A keydate is a keydate! The buyer can say that they have a genuine 1916-D Mercury dime. How many members reading this do not have a genuine 1916-D Merc? I wouldn't pay FR 2 money for it, but I'd pay $124 for sure!  Due to that 'only two' NGC population, I could see someone forking over $400. And it does look like an FR 2 coin anyway, at least in those small pictures... Edited by DNA
04/19/2010 10:59 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
968 Posts |
Coins like this will always have a market. If you don't have a lot of money but are working on a Mercury set you MUST have a 1916D. If you need that slot filled and are low on cash, bottom grade coins are ideal.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1934 Posts |
I agree with the perspectives of the supporters of slabbing a key date for authenticity and greatest possible resale value.
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Valued Member
United States
167 Posts |
Goods going for $550-$750? That low side seems awfully low, I just sold my AG-3 ANACS graded for about $600. I haven't seen a G-4 below $700 for a while.
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Rest in Peace
United States
4849 Posts |
Read it again. He said "about good". :-)
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Moderator
 United States
189340 Posts |
Quote:A keydate is a keydate! The buyer can say that they have a genuine 1916-D Mercury dime. How many members reading this do not have a genuine 1916-D Merc?  I do not have one. I do need one. I would gladly take that one. |
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
That is Poor-1. This is why I love NGC. They don't grade crappy like PCGS. To under grade a coin is better than over grading a coin. Remember that. - coincrazed
Edited by The return of Coincrazed
04/20/2010 12:11 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
968 Posts |
Why is it better to undergrade than overgrade? Maybe for the buyer it is, but for the seller an overgrade is better. So I'd call it a wash, and neither is preferable. Correct grading should be the real goal.
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Valued Member
United States
171 Posts |
Why is it better? All right, a little philosophy here. It is not good, it is not bad. It depends on your situation. If you're a BUYER looking to BUY a 1916D Mercury -like me- and you see a coin that is in Fine-12 condition, but the slab says it's in Very Good-8, and if you can get it at a Very Good-8 price (which you had better if it says that on the slab), AH, your getting a DEAL, which is GOOD! But, at the same time, say you already OWN a raw 1916D Mercury dime in Fine-12, which you bought at a Fine-12 price. Say you send it in to NGC, and it comes back graded as Very Good-8. You wouldn't be able to sell it for as much as a Fine-12 graded Fine-12, and to you it would be BAD! So it all depends on your perspective. In my perspective, if I can get a Fine-12 coin that has been graded Very Good-8 at a Very Good-8 price, I would buy it, crack it from its slab and send it to PCGS, where they would overgrade it! Then should I want to sell it, I would be able to sell it for a much higher price than what I bought it for! (knowing PCGS, they call a true Very good a Fine, and a Fine a Very Fine) So it depends on your perspective, that's my opinion. - coincrazed Edited by The return of Coincrazed
04/20/2010 2:01 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2734 Posts |
Quote:
Saruma: Coins like this will always have a market.
If you don't have a lot of money but are working on a Mercury set you
MUST have a 1916D. If you need that slot filled and are low on cash,
bottom grade coins are ideal.
The inclusion of a 1916-D in a Set of Mercury dimes makes the Set a lot more desirable, simply because the 'big key date coin' is present. Which do you think would sell quicker on ebay?: Mercury Dime Set, minus only 1916-Dor:Mercury Dime Set, INCLUDING 1916-D(even if the coins in the "minus '16-D Set" were of higher grades overall?!) |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2734 Posts |
Of course, in another way, buying the low-grade 1916-D is like buying a 1970's Silver Shadow sedan for $12,000 just so that you can say "I have a Rolls-Royce".  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1882 Posts |
Quote:Which do you think would sell quicker on ebay?: Mercury dime Set, minus only 1916-D or: Mercury dime Set, INCLUDING 1916-D (even if the coins in the "minus '16-D Set" were of higher grades overall?!) In the raw? The set without the 1916-D might sell faster, and certainly is a less risky purchase. Only one (slabbed) purchase for the buyer to make to complete the set. |
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First Page
Posted 04/19/2010 11:32 am
