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Replies: 36 / Views: 5,923 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4085 Posts |
Agree.
I mentioned "Genuine" as meaning it wouldn't slab problem free rather than as a PCGS-specific comment - but I realize the confusion since that's the "word" that PCGS uses.
I do prefer the ANACS and NGC "Details" indicators where a numeric grade is still assigned.
I think ANACS will only go as high as MS-60 Details if there is a problem with an MS coin, however.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7629 Posts |
The coin appears genuine.
I would NEVER buy or bid on a coin that expensive online...end of story. I don't care who is selling it.
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New Member
 United States
31 Posts |
I have an PCGS AU50 S VDB, I'm looking to buy one @ MS65 grading soon. but when I look at that coin, something in my mind told me that is not authentic. The den/scratch next to The mint mark "S" made me think that had been alter. I did not see any scratch on mine LWC. I read a article indicate some ppl added "S" to an authentic 1909 VDB LWC and sell it as an 1909 S VDB.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3283 Posts |
You have to admit - impressive video with the listing
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
1733 Posts |
I am totally with coppercoins on this, I've spent some serious money on coins but I want to see them in hand before money is exchanged. A slab makes no difference to me at all on this issue, that just means I trust everyone BUT me to tell me the coin is genuine.. in which case I shouldn't be buying it. JMHO, no offense intended or implied.
A couple/three hundred... no real risk.. beyond that.. the pleasure is in the shopping anyhow.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
10982 Posts |
Quote:I have an PCGS AU50 S VDB, I'm looking to buy one @ MS65 grading soon. but when I look at that coin, something in my mind told me that is not authentic. The den/scratch next to The mint mark "S" made me think that had been alter. I did not see any scratch on mine LWC. I read a article indicate some ppl added "S" to an authentic 1909 VDB LWC and sell it as an 1909 S VDB. If you are seriously considering an MS65 then definitely pass on that piece. I don't like the color and think it was probably stripped of it's original patina. I'd call it altered surfaces anyway.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19964 Posts |
Quote: I would NEVER buy or bid on a coin that expensive online...end of story. I don't care who is selling it.
I agree 100%. If you're going to spend big dollars on a coin, you want to see it in person with your own eyes. If the excuse is "I don't have anywhere local to go to", that is lame too. If you're ready to spend $1000+, plan it out, go to a big show and spend a few bucks on gas. The opportunity cost is but a fraction of what you're planning on spending....and well worth it. At any given good show you'll find plenty of key date coins to choose from.
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Moderator
 United States
189142 Posts |
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
Quote: False Description, sent to PCGS came back Rejected, Total SCAM!! accuses "ME" What exactly does rejected mean. For example, can you send a coin and say don't slab unless 64+? Or does it mean fake, or rejected because it's been artificially toned? I'm not expert enough to say it is or isn't genuine, but I'm bothered by the area near the mm, especially k9-12. Would damage or defective planchet in that location automagically cause a kickback?
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Valued Member
United States
149 Posts |
IMO is's real, but most likely dipped at some point. According to Q. David Bowers in the Lincoln Cent book, 90-95% of red early Lincolns struck between 1909-1920 sold in the 1960's were dipped! That to me is why it isn't slabbed. That said, it might still be OK-but you would need to see it hand to make that determination.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote: I don't care who this seller is, or how long he has been selling 1909-S VDB's, if it's not authenticated by either PCGS,NGC,ANACS, AVOID! That goes for the 1916-D 10C, 1916 SLQ, 1901-S Barber 25C, etc.   Just to many fakes out there today. Quote: I would NEVER buy or bid on a coin that expensive online...end of story. I don't care who is selling it. And I really, really agree on that.
Edited by just carl 03/25/2011 6:20 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote: Hint: Above each post is a 'Get a Link to this Reply' button...
Use this to point someone directly to the exact post you want.
Jbuck, how do you ever find time to know all that stuff. Took me forever to just find how to quote. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1304 Posts |
Quote:An even more accurate link... http://www.coincommunity.com/forum/..age=4#178237Hint: Above each post is a 'Get a Link to this Reply' button... Use this to point someone directly to the exact post you want. Thank You jbuck, that would have been alot easier. 
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Pillar of the Community
United States
4989 Posts |
Looks fine to me plenty of cartwheel in the video and the photos look details accurate for an MS-64 or so RD 1909-S-VDB LWC. A few posters on here have vouched for the dealer and he has good overall feedback so no issues there. Seller also guarantees authenticity and has a 7 day no questions asked return policy. Hence, you have plenty of time to evaluate the coin in hand or have a local dealer check it out. Of course he's not going to guarantee that it grades as anything but genuine so I'm not too concerned about the one negative even an expert dealer, selling coins unslabbed, is occasionally going to miss the mark on a grade. He also makes a good point on his listings. If you want certified coins, buy them certified. If you want raw, buy them raw. Someone who buys raw with the intent to turn a buck by getting them certified opens himself up to disappoint since TPG grading is, almost, a crap shoot.
Edited by fenton 03/25/2011 11:56 pm
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Moderator
 United States
189142 Posts |
Quote: Jbuck, how do you ever find time to know all that stuff. Took me forever to just find how to quote. Quote: Thank You jbuck, that would have been alot easier. It is all part of the job. 
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Replies: 36 / Views: 5,923 |
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