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Sets: To Proof Or Not To Proof?

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yechi7's Avatar
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717 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  08:32 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add yechi7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
If this has been discussed before, please provide links.

In certain denominations, for instance, Lincoln Cents, where from 1975 onward, S Mints were only available as Proofs, or similarly, Jefferson nickels, where from 1968 (I think) onward, S Mints were only Proofs:

My question is: Since the Proofs were not an actual "part" of the "circulated" coinage, but, seemingly, were only added as an "artificial" addition to the collection for "collectors," is a set considered "complete" without the Proofs?
Edited by yechi7
06/21/2007 08:33 am
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biokemist6's Avatar
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12437 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  12:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biokemist6 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I consider circulating business strikes and proofs to be two completely different animals when collecting. Business strikes are made for the masses and are meant to circulate freely in commerce. These are the coins that jingle in pockets and see the wear and tear of daily use. Survival rates for business strikes can vary from relatively high to almost nonexistant.

Proof coins, on the other hand, are minted specifically for collectors and are not meant to be spent. The survival rates of proofs are almost always high. Proofs are usually seen in close to the same condition as they left the Mint. Occasionally one will see circulation but that is the exception rather than the norm.

For me, these differences put them in different collecting categories. I am assembling sets of Franklins and silver Washingtons right now. I am only going for business strikes not proofs and I will consider the set complete(without the proofs) when I finish. One could also collect only the proof issues from those series as well and have a complete set. If you had a complete set of business strikes and proofs, I would consider that to be two complete sets. It is all a matter of personal preference and I am sure that some would disagree with me but to each his own- do what you like and stick to it
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yechi7's Avatar
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 Posted 06/21/2007  12:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add yechi7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I spent a chunk of cash ($65 to be exact) on the complete Lincoln Proofs, 1975-S to 2006-S, which was, I think, actually a very good deal.

Now I'm trying to decide if I want (or should) spend $60 for the complete Jefferson nickel Proofs, 1968-S to 2004-S (36 coins).

I know it's "up to me," but I want to see how other (more experienced) collectors view the "Proof or Not To Proof" question.
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djluster's Avatar
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1327 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  2:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add djluster to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I agree with biokemist6 on this. that there are two different set, I know there are alot who think oyu don't truly have a complete set unless you have every coin issued for it. proof and non proof.I myself am just as happy with finishing a set of non proofs. It might just be that I can not aford to collect proof and non proof both. My goals is to have every set on Circulated coins that the US mint put out. I know that is a almost imposible to do but I am working on each set as I can. I personly like to keep my proof coins in the holders from the mint. I think you might be beter to get all Proof sets from 1968-2007 cheaper then trying to buy each group of proof by themselves
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magusxxx's Avatar
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306 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  4:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add magusxxx to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My understand is that books with plastic sliders, like the Danscos, include spaces for the proof coins while blue books do not. So, if you put all of your coins in the book of your choice and there are no empy holes I'd say you have a complete set.

Or is that answer too simple minded? :D
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yechi7's Avatar
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717 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  4:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add yechi7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Makes me feel guilty when I look at all those empty holes.
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chevrolet454ss's Avatar
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314 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  5:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chevrolet454ss to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hi,

What dealer or person are buying those proofs for 65 bucks for 75 thru 2006. I need serval proofs to finish my penny book. I need 85 , 89, 92, 70, 70 small date, 81 type 2, 05, 06, dates to finish my proof section in book. My book on proofs I added the 1950 thru 74 proof stuff on last page to fill holes. My goal is to have one of each proof in book aslong with bu 34 thru 07 bussiness strikes. The rate I going I need an secord update page for my book to add more coins such 36 thru 42 proofs. 09 thru 1917 proofs if I can find them.

Your geting an good price
on geting proofs for 1975 thru 05 for 65 bucks. On ebay they sale 90 thru 99 proofs just for 55 bucks . Or off the ebay the dealers want 1968 thru 06 proofs for 159 bucks. If I can start geting proofs at good prices I can start installing in my other books I am building.

One last thing on my dime book and nickel books.I did not add proofs since I removed the coins from used bank rolls. Those sets are cheap used sets. If I was an building bu nickel set or dime book I would have added proofs. Those I just installed coins in those cheap he harris folders and not the expensive dansco books. I may someday build an bu dime or nickel book and not go overkill like on my penny book with wanting everything ever made in there.

So If you can help me out by refering me that dealer or person on proofs for my sets. I will be very happy geting my sets finished. I will wait intill buy serval proof sets to take apart for coins.

Thanks chevrolet454ss
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Prethen's Avatar
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3234 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  5:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Prethen to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I think Proofs are one of the more beautiful and demonstrative of coin collecting. I'm more attuned to 19th Century Proofs though. They show the design in all its glorious detail with beautiful mirrors and sometimes equally beautiful toning. The only modern stuff I collect are the Silver Proof Sets.
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yechi7's Avatar
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717 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  7:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add yechi7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
chevrolet454ss,

email sent
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collect4fun's Avatar
United States
1151 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  7:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add collect4fun to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I am working on My Kennedy collection and at first only bought the dansco that held the P&D set then I decided to return it for the album that included the Proofs. As of now I only have 13 circulated coins to go and 42 proofs to fill. The proofs that I do have sure make the other P&D's look dull. Once I get it complete, then I will upgrade the circ's to match color and tone with the Proofs.
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United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  9:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Dansco and Whitman Albums all contain slots for proofs from cetain dates on. They also contain slots for mint errors such as the 55Double Die Lincoln Cent. Not sure if Whitman and Dansco do this to irritate people but an Album just looks strange with an empty slot. If you did not put the Proofs in them, there would be empty slots at every third place. Not sure of other albums such as Littleton and others but it sure irritates me to have to put the strange coins in to fill the album. Lincoln Cents is about the worst with spots for 22plain, 55Double, 72Double, etc. I do put them all in those slots but every time I do I say outloud a few nasty words for Whitman.
What I used to do when I was a lot younger was to cover all the dates with blue paint and write in my own leaving out the proofs.
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djluster's Avatar
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1327 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  9:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add djluster to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I am not sure if that question was asked of me, but I was not saying you could get all the 1975-2005 for 65 dollar. what I was saying that if you bought the Lincoln for 65. and looking at the Jefferson then you could probaly come close on getting them for all set if you bought the proof since you wouldn't have to spend alot more then you are already. plus you would have the proof for Dime, Quarters and Halfs. I get almost all of my proof set at grey sheet prices from my local dealer and I think I other then the 2004 I could come close to getitng all the 1975-2003 for less the 200. that is why I was saying that if you were already buyng single set of Lincoln and Jefferson proof you might just want to get them all. I can when I get time look up about what I think all sets from 1975-2005 minus the 2004 since that one alone you are looking at around 90-100 dollar but I will see what I think I can get them for.
If the question was not posted to me then just ignore my post.
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Kabiye_Lady's Avatar
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581 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  10:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Kabiye_Lady to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yechi, this is an excellent question -one I've asked myself.

Personally, I do proofs. However, if I have to choose between a "key" proof or a "key" from the business strike, I'll spend my money on the business strike first. I'm also not sure I will ever spend $$$ on the really expensive proofs.

There are two other things I'd like to mention:

a. There are "impaired" proofs which fill holes and are cheaper than the regular ones. Depending on the "impairment", they can appear normal to the naked eye.

b. I think it's always cool to include one proof in each album even if you don't collect them. Ususally there's a space for a variety or just blank spaces. Or you can put it in the hole for that ultra-rare one you're never going to be able to afford.

A final thought. I am not an expert, but I gotta believe that those proofs from 1955-1959 are really underpriced and so might be a good investment. But I've been wrong before...
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lonnie's Avatar
United States
250 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2007  10:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add lonnie to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I like business strikes in high quality over proofs, especially in the clad vs. silver except when the silver coin is not cameo. I haven't seen too many proofs any better than a Franklin half CAMEO. WOW!!

I do really like the Jefferson nickel proofs because you some that tone out in beautiful blues, golds and greens.

Have a great one everybody!!
Valued Member
United States
101 Posts
 Posted 06/22/2007  02:44 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sllyonsjr421 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
yechi I am also interested in where you are able to get sets of lincoln and jefferson proofs for decent prices. I am looking to finish both my sets by adding the proof set to them. thanks much!
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yechi7's Avatar
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717 Posts
 Posted 06/22/2007  03:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add yechi7 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
sllyonsjr421,

If you email me your email address, I'll forward it on to my contact person for Lincoln Proofs.

For Jefferson nickel Proofs, there's an ad in the current issue of Coin Values, p. 19 for Skyline Coins in Virginia - 1-800-599-0778:

Jefferson Proofs - "Superb Proof - Premium Quality" - 1968-S to 2003-S - 36 coins (No Type 2's) - $59.50. Add $5.00 for insured shipping.

They also have the 5 Proofs of 2004-S, 2005-S, 2006-S for $39.50. Both Nickel sets for $92.50.

They also advertise for Washington quarter Proofs: 1968-S to 1998-S Clad Proof - 30 coins (No Type 2's) - $89.50. Also, 1992-S to 1998-S Silver Proof - 7 coins - $49.50. Both Quarter sets for $125.00.
Edited by yechi7
06/22/2007 03:09 am
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