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 Replies: 9 / Views: 846 |
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Valued Member
United States
393 Posts |
Edited by sosicoin
06/15/2018 11:40 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
26893 Posts |
Editing your post is easy, once you know how to do it. I'll tell you how to do it. If you need to edit a comment or thread, you click that pencil icon above your comment or thread.
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Valued Member
United States
393 Posts |
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
GREAT pix! That's the kind of resolution necessary to really determine these anomalies. I marked you 2x eye question. It's helpful to say where you think you see the effect, I assume you have already tried to attribute using the normal sources. By coppercoins.com, only three 2x eyes are listed. Usually the doubling happens under and in front of the eyelid...#1 is not, #2 may just be a shadow...move your light soure around and see if the raised area changes, become more or less distinct. It may be an unlisted very minor DDO, or just a slight die dent.    The RPM, no, again it may be too minor to even attribute, I don't see much shifting. Edited by Crazyb0
06/15/2018 10:24 pm
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
47852 Posts |
On the Variety Vista site they have two doubled eyelids for this year/mint http://www.varietyvista.com/01a%20L...201952-D.htmBut both of them are under the eyelid area. Not on top. But I think you had some very serious Machine Doubling on the mint mark, date and probably the eyelid as well. Note on the mint mark you see a strong set of metal striations on the top of the mint mark. But there maybe a split on the upper serif. While the image color looks nice, it is hiding the glare what I need to see. I see you are using a pair of lights. While they look good, they remove light and shadow, the two things necessary for a great image. On variety vista, they have 25 dies to match up to. So take an envelope and hold it to the screen on your coin. When you do that you get an idea of which ones are not close to the location on the mint mark. http://www.varietyvista.com/02a%20L...%201952D.htmMethod one: Going to the above like you can try this on these images. 001 is too far south, 002 is too far north and so on. Method 2: Another route is to eliminate the RPMs that doesn't match your RPM on your coin. 001, 004, 005 and so on are different shaped. You are looking for RPMs that match the upper serif on the NW corner of the die. You might want to use method two first, then go with method one, to see which dies you can excuse from not matching your coin. When you get down to the closest ones, then it get tougher. Sometimes your die that made your coin is not listed yet. So don't get frustrated and give up. But start with an image that shows a single light source. Sometimes shadows hide stuff. Also glare hide things you need to see. So try the suggestions given and see if you find the right die. If you had more than one, mark down the number and we can do a side by side to see which one is the right one. But I'm going to let you try to see if you can do it. Then we will help you to match it. Its hands on experience that helps train the eye and the mind to see what you can figure out. Were here for you when you have questions. Out of their list, I narrowed it down in location and mint mark RPM shape to four dies numbers. As I was unsure what the bottom of the lower serif looked like, I made my choices. Three are mint marks from a damaged mint mark punch. Yours is not that shape. And the fourth is not it either. So I'm striking out with this site. Be after looking at the images again, the upper serif looks normal from the new images. So I think it is not a RPM now. But you still have a great condition for a coin that year. Sure there is die flow on the fields, but the look is fantastic. A nice golden color. The reverse is showing PDIT. But several of them look that way that grade high.  Edited by coop
06/16/2018 12:10 am
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Bedrock of the Community
26893 Posts |
You're very welcome sosicoin! I'm glad I was able to help you.
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Valued Member
United States
393 Posts |
Coop, my sincere appreciation. You know, I am trying to absorb your information. You might have noticed, I started getting coins from "civilization" not from the "wild." LOL. I am learning more with the "civilized" coins. The "wild" coins gave me "wild" imaginations, too. LOL. See Coop, I was able to pick that up. You are very observant, I don't know how you do it but you figured I used a "pair of lights" when I took the pics. I had ceiling lights on and a desk top LED lamp. I will try one light source as you suggested to eliminate shadow & glare. Got that, sir. I need to practice. Too, I need to learn how to execute the 2 methods you instructed. Whew! I thought I am getting it, but there are lots & lots & lots more to learn. Try, try, try...and enjoy, enjoy, enjoy.
Crazyb0, my deepest appreciation. I listen to you, too. When you said my pics were not "good", that's not how you stated it but I got the message. LOL. I knew then that I needed an upgrade. Otherwise without your comments, I would have just made do with that low grade usb microscope. I am glad, you like the pics I am posting currently.
All your comments are well appreciated.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
47852 Posts |
In wanted light can be removed easily. One way is to turn off the un wanted light. Another way is to block the glare of un wanted light. How to do that your thinking?   First you need to determine the direction of the unwanted light. Try placing your hands around the coin. See what direction of light creates the unwanted glare. The tape a curtain to block the direction of the unwanted light. Paper, foam even facial tissue will remove the glare. This diffuses the glare that is unwanted. I use a small amount of light (14 watts). But having it closer to the coin and having it diffused helps.  I use a different setup for taking images of multiple coins. For a light source I use a desk lamp with two sheets of paper to diffuse the light.  I covered a file cabinet with a box on it with a dark piece of material. This I use as to stage the shots.      That is the two setups that worked for me. CoopHome: lighting for coins Edited by coop
06/16/2018 12:15 pm
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Valued Member
United States
393 Posts |
 WOW! I know my expression of thanks is not good enough, Coop. You share very valuable information. It means so much to me. What you are sharing will help me in my learning process as well as the others, too. Your unparalleled practice of the Universal Law of Giving and Receiving will come back to you a thousand fold. More power to you, Coop. Thanks, and more thanks.
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Valued Member
United States
393 Posts |
Hi, Crazyb0. I haven't "tried to attribute using the normal sources" yet. I am still in the learning process of determining RPM/DDO/DDR. Once I learn and have at least 10 Lincoln cents for attribution, then I will send it to ANACS for their sale price. I am cheap-0. Lol. It might take a while at the pace I am learning. But I am dropping off 2 coins for attribution "Mint Error: Wrong metal composition" at the Baltimore Coin Show this June, 2018 while visiting family. This will be my first experience to coin attribution. Double purpose. Still cheap-0. Lol.
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Replies: 9 / Views: 846 |
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Posted 06/15/2018 10:15 pm
