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Help With RPM On 1986-D Lincoln Cent

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19 Posts
 Posted 10/31/2020  2:18 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add MadDawgMaverick to your friends list Get a Link to this Message
Preface: I have been trying to find RPM-013 for quite some time now. Thought I had found one close, photographed it, and then went to compare with the only photos found on Variety Vista. Overlaying an image of #13 and no cigar. So the next closest in position IMO is #3. Doesn't Match either.

So I open the floor to all of y'all for opinions.

Added the horizontal & vertical bars to help align differences in perspective and size.



Mintmark furthest to the left (back) is the original. Center (middle) is RPM-003. Furthest to the right (topmost) is RPM-013.

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United States
3085 Posts
 Posted 10/31/2020  2:20 pm  Show Profile   Check Yokozuna's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add Yokozuna to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It looks like split plate doubling, not an RPM. Sorry.
"Shine, shine a Roosevelt dime. All the way to Baltimore and runnin' out of time." Tom Waits-Clap Hands

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286 Posts
 Posted 10/31/2020  2:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add shantiom to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Awesome photos, what system do you use and what is your post prod if you can share...really impressive analysis even though it may not be an RPM
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52340 Posts
 Posted 10/31/2020  2:44 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add coop to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
First, I applaud you effort and using side by sides when possible. But on your coin, the area SE id called split plating, not a RPM.

When making side by sides, I find determining the horizontal top line of the devices my first concern first. After determining this, them I crop both sets of image exactly the same. I usually make the widths the same. (I use a 1200 pixel width, making each image of the side by side 600 pixels wide. I add canvas on one image and set it for 1200 pixels by 1200 pixels square. I place the cropped images on to the canvas side by side. First thing I check is vertical alignment of the date. Tops of the devices of the dates should be not only the same width, but also the same height. I use underlines to match the different heights.

Note on this one, I labeled the line colors and also where I started each line as the source of height. When I find they are not a match, then I adjust the errant one to make them both the same height. Having this square first, helps to insure the mintmark locations are a match or not? On this one I placed images 1 then 2 on the top line and 2 then 1 on the second line. Why? That is to show the horizontals are a match. Then the reverse order on the lower lines, to compare verticals to see if they match, or not. If not, they are probably not the same die number. Why the need to exact? Because on this year, Wexler lists over 350+ dies that he attributed. So finding an exact one takes a lot of work to attribute these. Sometimes I use more than one source die to see how the locations of the mintmark lines up. Seeing them side by side allows the perspectives not to go away from looking at to separate sources. I use this for doubled dies as well, but mostly for mintmark location matches.

CoopHome How to make SBS comparisons?
Richard S. Cooper
Some have asked about my images I use and I'm glad to say, you can now you can see the DVD in sections on youtube:
1. Intro, older coins, toned coins 2. Doubled dies 3. Die events, One of a kind errors 4. So called errors, Coin information 5. Coin information Types and Varieties, Overlays
Jefferson nickel doubled dies Wexler/Rebar complete listings

trail dies:
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