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Best Dates For Type Sets

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 Posted 07/21/2011  11:23 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Kopper Ken to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I try to get the same grade "look" across the board. To me that's more appealing, visually. VF to EF is what I shoot for.

KK
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 Posted 07/21/2011  12:11 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I agree that a consistent look is nice. I think I'll probably work on a a 20th century type set in at least AU condition, then go for some middling grade for the 19th century set.

I guess that means two coins for the series that overlap (an 1881-S Morgan would look kinda funny in a 20th century type set)... Which of the 20th century issues of Morgans and Barbers are nice-ish?
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 Posted 07/21/2011  8:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bryan1315 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
for 20th century I am guessing maybe 1900-O. Even in D<PL MS-62 numismedia lists it at under 100 bucks. Usually NewOrleans mint Morgans are weakly struck but I am guessing 1900-O is an exception because even in MS-66 (a grade one would expect to be sharply struck and very nice looking) only lists on numismedia for 475.00 which is the same price 1880-s-1882-S in the same grade sells for. So by that the 1900-O should be the 20th century counterpart to the 1880-1882-S Morgans. I doubt they are quite as sharply struck as the S mint coins but it would probably be the best one made in the 20th century for a type coin. If you want a date with a history behind it I always like the 1903-O. until the early 60's the 1903-O was one of the key date coins and was very very rare where most coin deal;ers had never even seen a UNC version of this date. This was until December 1962 when the treasury found bags full of 1903-O Morgans and saturated the market with them and the prices fell just about over night making one of the very rare coins now one of the most common coins available. I guess this choice would be if you would like to tell a story of history every time you show the coins to someone because it would just be another hole filled with a coin without the story attached
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 Posted 07/21/2011  10:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add RollHunter to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Which of the 20th century issues of Morgans and Barbers are nice-ish?


I'm having a hard time with this myself. I have a 1921D Morgan in my type set now, but I think all the 1921s are too ugly.


Quote:
for 20th century I am guessing maybe 1900-O


1900 isn't in the 20th century. I know it makes me a jerk for bringing it up, sorry!
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 Posted 07/21/2011  10:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bryan1315 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
most people will call 1900-1999 the 20th century not 1901 through Dec.31,2000. Thats why in the 80's we partied like it was 1999, because they said two thousand zero zero the parties over, Oops out of time
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 Posted 07/21/2011  11:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, the morons who invented our stupid calendar made it one based, no year zero. I'm a pedantic person, so I can't have a 1900 coin in my 20th century type set!
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 Posted 07/22/2011  03:12 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Gyrene7483 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My 19th Century type set will not have a coin dated 1900 even though that is the century date, all of the coins will be 18xx. My 20th Century type set will have coins dated 1901 or later. I am eventually going to have a Century set of all the denominations and mint marks of the coins dated 1900 but I'll get to it after I finish some of the other sets I am assembling.

The best dates for a type set is what you happen to like, myself I look for a coin which will complement the others already in the set as far as grade and color (toning). MS-62 to 64 coins seem to be match up the best side by side if selected for their eye appeal and you will hardly notice the grade differences.

Ed
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 Posted 07/22/2011  10:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add RollHunter to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Thats why in the 80's we partied like it was 1999


I partied both years (Prince never showed up though) - first with the fun people then with the pedantic nerds. That's just how I roll!

But yeah, I just can't bring myself to put a 1900 coin in my 20th century type set (and I do have a Sac in mine). To each his own!
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 Posted 07/23/2011  08:35 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nod2003 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I don't have any qualms about putting a 17xx coin in my 7070, if only I owned one even though it is a 19th and 20th century set.
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 Posted 07/24/2011  12:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add gotom to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I am finding this discussion very informative. Probably because I still have a lot of holes to fill. What are people's thoughts on Barber halves. In higher grades none of them are cheap. Are there any years I should be looking for in particular?

Also what is everyone's thought on getting first year of issue for the type. I know for some issues its impossible for most people (e.g. 1856 flying eagle and 1916 SLQ type 1) but in general most are doable.
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 Posted 07/24/2011  3:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bizybackson to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
For a 20th Century type set, the 1913, 1914, 1915 Philadelphia Barber half dollar. A more 'common' Barber is the last ones minted in New Orleans, 1909-O. All relatively scarce dates.

In addition to first year dates in a type set, I also like the last year dates, the 1930-S SLQ, 1935-S Peace $1, 1945-S micro S Mercury 10c and the 1947-D WL 50c come immediately to mind. They are not too expensive in MS.

If you are eventually going to branch out into a 19th Century type set, 1873 is the year to aim for. Great year for coins, bad for banks. There are 2 proof only issues, the 2c and the 3c trime. There are closed and open '3' varieties, arrow/no arrow at date Seated Liberty coinage, and most of the gold coins dated 1873 except the eagle. You could make a collection with just this one date. Good luck & welcome to the forum!
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 Posted 07/24/2011  3:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bizybackson to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Sorry, I meant to say the rare 1873 coin is the $3.00 Gold Princess, otherwise there would 16 holes you could fill with an 1873-dated coin:

1. Indian Head cent, closed/open
2. Two-Cent piece, closed/open proof only
3. Three-Cent Silver, proof only
4. Three-Cent Nickel, closed/open
5. Shield nickel, closed/open
6. Seated Liberty half dime
7. Seated Liberty dime, closed/open no arrow, arrows at date
8. Seated Liberty quarter, closed/open no arrow, arrows at date
9. Seated Liberty half dollar, closed/open no arrow, arrows at date
10. Seated Liberty Silver Dollar
11. Trade dollar
12. Gold Dollar, Type III closed/open
13. Liberty Head Quarter Eagle, closed/open
14. $3 Princess closed/open (rare, proof only)
15. Liberty Head Half Eagle, closed/open
16. Liberty Head Eagle
17. Liberty Head Double Eagle, closed/open

What makes this year interesting is really the height of 19th Century US, the last year of several of the coins, the bank panic and the emergence of the Trade dollar.
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 Posted 11/24/2020  09:17 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MOS0239 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
You guys are way to far down in the weeds for me. I'm just lucky I could fill holes with "ANY" condition coins for my 7070. Gold is out of the question.
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 Posted 11/24/2020  10:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jbuck to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I'm just lucky I could fill holes with "ANY" condition coins for my 7070. Gold is out of the question.
I can relate, just look at my 7070. Low and mid grade classics with no gold in sight.
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 Posted 11/24/2020  3:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MOS0239 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I can relate, just look at my 7070. Low and mid grade classics with no gold in sight.


No plans to upgrade any of those coins?
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