Taking Photos Of DMPL Coins

Well, I don't know about DMPL Morgans, but I've shared some photos of my PL Morgans in this thread.

Normally, I use a diffuser (a.k.a. half a milk jug with a hole cut out on the top) to prevent reflections, but I found that I actually wanted some reflection on these coins to show that they were, in fact, proof-like. Then, it's just a matter of providing enough light and getting the best angle that shows the amount of detail that you want. There is definitely a tradeoff between showing the best reflection and showing the best detail, so you need to experiment with angles until you get the result that looks best for you.

Just an observation in my part...For month' I have been seeing the diffuser things, and the milk jugs...
Actually the milk jug does a decent job of diffusion, but...I found the color wasn't correct, recently I talked with an old "film" camera gal who still has not gotten rid of her dark room, as she still can't quite get what she want's ...
I took some shots of some highly reflective coins..and then again with the milk jug...the first coins were truer to color,, the jug,s gave more contrast better detail...So I cut the jug in half, to let some light in with the some diffusion on my Morgan's...Again its results depend on how well you see the light being dispursed evenly upon the coin..
Key factor here...I think SD and RPMS have i9t right in general the most direct over head lighting like next to the lense as straight down upon the coin as can bee with out hitting the lens,, at about 10 and 2 o'clock observing the light as you place it upon the coin as you can over light and cause shadow or unlit spots on the coin due to the angle of your lighting, its something one needs to do with each and every type of coin and its luster or dullness, its not a fix all, but a good starting place..for DMPL coins as they are so darn reflective I wou;ld start at ISO 80 if you can or 100...practice from there and I wouldn't consider going over 100/200 there is more than enough light hitting the sensor which is really the key ingrediant
....By the way...
I forgot to mention
NO AUTO ANYTHING....what you see and what the camera thinks you need are never the same thing...every once ion a while you will get the WOW pic, but not a formula for coins...one thing I will note all lenses have there middle of the road F stop, my stock canon 55mm-80mm is around F8, depending on the coin, I uded this as a starting place with an ISO of 80 and took a couple of quick picks for you...to note that all lenses have low and High F/stops, but the medium ground for the lens and its known areas of good functions can be found in the online reviews, so I just took these real quick, to give you some Idea,,,





the basic set up is, 2 lights at say 10 and 2 o'clock about
8 inches high ISO 100, F8, shutter about 160 As I could see it in live shoot, it really saves me a lot of shots and adjustments...and pictures to review to find the good shot...without all the hastle, but I did upgrade the camera to save such time, I just dont want to spend more on a lens than the camera cost, work with what you have...
How ever back to my main IDEA, is there are some basic rules, complicate3d as they may be...SUCH as in any F/ stop number I choose..if I lower the shutter speed the more light gets in...that is for shinny coins...THATS A FACT...
however the reverse may hold true for a dull coin...I just don't know yet, just trying to NAIL some facts down in this wide and comprehensive coins shooting, I will have to tracts some such facts, as these are known not printed, as one can not solve all situations, yet try to get a handle on the variables..there can be only so many variables one has to consider....with these known. adjustments can be made with a positive influence...

There are some really great reads for the recent past if I get some time I will try to write some of them down they have really helped me tremendously...I'll try to send some of them to you, as its kind of a real crash course on coin shooting and some of it gets way over your head until you read it a few times, and then the basics and fine points start falling into place,,As a basis...pic some settings and write them down and then take some shots, and then make ONE adjustment only, one way and then the other direction, to see if your gaining or loosing for the coin you have...
Start without diffusion....after a few trys with good results slip the diffusion in and do the same thing and NOTE whats happening....make sure weather your diffusing or not, that you WATCH the lighting upon the coin as you adjust there position over the coin so that it is evenly spread across the coin...for me, DMPL is much easier. however for a BU silver dollar, I have to really WATCH that is even as if not most of the coin will be well lit and a small portion will be darker...My lights almost touch the lens to be directly over the coin as possible,
In such cases I have found while the light is great it can be too much and wash over the coins details, THE CONTRAST can be lost,,, and that's where the diffusion comes in..it always has good detail, but I have found the true silver color isn't there, but thats just me so far in my newbie attempts...Gotta run, when I get back I will try another shot of the same coin above to see what the milk jugs will look like with a full milk jug, and a half milk jug...Might be interesting....

We equip ourselves with fabulous cameras and wonderful lenses to shoot our coins, and lose sight of the 99% of the world which we could fondly remember forever had we taken the moment to use that equipment to record where were, rather than what we were doing. I hope to never forget the other opportunities.

Aladinslamp, again, thank you for your insight. I'm excited to play around and see what I can do. Good luck with all your endeavors!