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Replies: 12 / Views: 4,827 |
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New Member
Australia
42 Posts |
Hi all, I'm relatively new to coin collecting and I have a few coins I'd like to purchase...I am wondering if anyone can help me with some advice for buying PCGS graded coins. Should I be paying less/more/or around the same as the pcgs listed value of that particular coin?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1302 Posts |
The PCGS prices tend to be on the higher side of things. If it's a truly rare coin- the price is irrelevant.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2764 Posts |
I never use PCGS listed value.... I heard they can be up to 40% above market price, especially high dollar coins. Check "completed auction" on ebay for market value price of any particular coins you plan to buy. Numismedia Fair Market Value is pretty good (retail price). If you can pay at Greysheet price then that's even better.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5854 Posts |
I agree that PCGS listed prices seem to be higher than market prices even for PCGS graded coins. For values, I usually used a combination of actual sales from major auction houses and ebay as well as retail price guides like numismedia. I place the most weight on actual sales. That said, when it comes to coins of exceptional quality or rarity all of these prices can be thrown out the window. In these cases, even PCGS price guide may be low.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5854 Posts |
Almost forgot... 
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
as a rule of thumb PCGS prices are FULL retail prices (and at the top end of retail). There is a couple series where if you can find a coin in those grades at their prices you would be doing very good but those are few and far between
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7840 Posts |
I have found out the hard way that if I want a coin bad enough, you can throw out all previous sales, values, etc... out the window. If you want/need it...the price is up to you on badly you want/need it.
If it seems too high, walk on by!
If it seems too low, don't let go!
If it seems just right, you will sleep at night!
I am sure that I am plagiarizing someone, that popped into my head too easy.
Edited by oih82w8 02/23/2012 4:48 pm
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New Member
 Australia
42 Posts |
Thanks everyone for your help- so much to learn!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
9792 Posts |
oih82w8 is correct there are a few coins I would bid 50% over the top PCGS price on if they came up for sale, and I still probably wouldn't win them at auction. most coins I go at 70-80% of their pricing, unless the coin is top end for the grade. You either know that because you've been in the business for decades and have seen a lot of similar coins to base your call on. There are coins many think are truly rare and in actuality there are lots of them out there, they may not be for sale currently but they do exist. I've seen rolls of uncirculated 1955 DDO LWC, 1909-S vbd LWC, 1932-D and S Quarters, thousands of PL and DMPL morgans, used to pick through rolls for DMPLS in common dates and replace them with average inc coins, I knew a dealer that would bring me 5-10 rolls every month of S & O mint Morgans to go through, my pick + a solid unc replacement was only $5.00/coin premium, today many of those would ealiy make MS66 DMPL or higher at the TPGs. If I recall a roll of premium unc morgans was around $90.00-120.00 back in 1982. I had 2 O mint dollars that I traded across the board to a guy for a 2 - Double Eagle Saints, no lie, he knew the dollars were that nice, the Saints were worth maybe $500 at the time that was crazy money to spend on O mint common dollars, you know I wonder what they graded at today, wouldn't be surprised if they were in 67 or 68 DMPL holders now, I'd rather have those 2 dollars back than the Saints I took in trade, they were 1882-O and 1883-O and at 67DMPL or higher were talking $20K+ per coin now. Money always chases quality while average never really gets the full price asked.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013! ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector. See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
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Valued Member
474 Posts |
First of all, Claired!
Quote: westcoin: Money always chases quality while average never really gets the full price asked. I too learned the hard way about PCGS's so called 'pricing guide.'
Before going any further, I feel it prudent to emphasize the thing to remember is any pricing guide is just that: A guide. This means that at any time, any coin, for whatever reason, can cause all of that past tense information to be useless.Everyone probably has some kind of formula they use when calculating what they are willing to pay for a coin.
For reasons already stated above, I don't use PCGS pricing guides, period! If I refer to any, it is usually NGC pricing because I feel NGC is routinely more conservative in trying to estimate market value.
I have tweaked this quite a bit for my own personal use and depending on the situation, but when I began to put some money into collecting, my formula would have looked something like this example:
(Asking Price - (Buyers Premiums + Shipping Fees)) x .675 = What I may consider paying for a coin.
($250 - ($25+$5)) x .675 = $148.50 *round numbers used for ease of explanation
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Pillar of the Community
2223 Posts |
 and  with all the above! I like to use various combination of pricing guides, all of which have already been stated above. I like Numismedia, compared to prior sales on the bay, my Red Book which is HIGH, how bad do I want the coin, how good is the coin for what I'm willing to pay, if I get it in hand and don't like it, can I return it? How reputable is the seller? Most importantly, always be ready to walk away. There are many fish in the ocean. Best of Luck in your hunting!
Edited by southsav 02/27/2012 7:59 pm
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Valued Member
United States
167 Posts |
I've looked up an awful lot of things in the PCGS price guide, they range from spot on to way high to low. For example some of the modern stuff - the prices are often higher than what you can find the coin for. But some of the values for better grade walkers and Morgans - they usually pretty close to what things sell for. If anything, they are a touch lower than what you can actually buy the coin for online - and generally less than what it costs at a show.
I've used the NumisMedia guide - the data that NGC uses - and for a lot of things, it is pretty close to what you see the coins sell for.
Greysheet prices are for dealer to dealer reference - site seen - and uncertified. There is a bluesheet that is for certified site UNseen - and wow those prices are lower than you can find it for anywhere I've seen.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
500 Posts |
As others have stated, the PCGS and NGC/numismedia prices on their sites are RETAIL prices. Thus inflated by a fair margin for most coins. Since I don't care to pay for a greysheet subscription, I find that 80% of retail is a decent rule-of-thumb for wholesale prices. The Heritage auction site is a good resource for seeing what past auctions have "paid" and also lists the "WHOLESALE" prices from the same resources they list the retail from ( PCGS, NGC, numismedia ). You have to sign in to see all of that info but IMO it is the best resource for a good true "FMV". I find it better than looking at ebay past records as a fair amount of eBay-ers overpay for coins IMO! Between auction prices and Wholesale that is typically my TARGET when haggling/bidding/etc. And 75%-80% of the retail lists is about right ( I saw someone else post that they target 80% of retail and I think that is pretty accurate in my experiences ). That said, for many slabbed coins sellers want retail! Many ask 110%-300% of retail when selling BIN on ebay for example. So it is difficult to find good quility coins at wholesale prices. You have to be patient! Some bargains can only be had during auctions where you luck out and have few if any other bidders looking at that coin that particular week. I admit that with a "certified" set of Buffalo nickels, I paid closer to 85% for many of the coins I wanted - I was too impatient with it in retrospect. On some coins people will just not budge from close to retail. Waiting for a good auction price or a good bargain at a coin show is the way to go typically, IMO. Most Buy-It-Now prices are retail or higher. I have found a few decent deals but they are rare. Shows are better for gold, certified coins, and deals in-general. It is much easier to haggle face-to-face and many dealers want the turnover so they are more willing to deal at closer margins. Plus tax and shipping doesn't add on! JMHO
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Replies: 12 / Views: 4,827 |
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