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Protecting Iron Coins

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Valued Member
tmaring's Avatar
United States
88 Posts
 Posted 05/16/2012  3:27 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add tmaring to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hi:
I have a date collection of Norwegian 1 ore and 2 ore pieces, which includes periods during wartime German Occupation when iron was substituted for the copper in the coins. They are not plated like ours, but have some sort of controlled blackened finish. Some of the coins remain gorgeous, a smooth glossy deep black. Others have gone completely to the dark side, swathed in red crusty rust. Others are in various states between. I'd love to know the best way to preserve these!

I also MAKE coins, and have done a couple different issues in pure iron. I use a commercial gun-blueing chemical to darken them, and then oven-dry. Rust is always an issue! I have recently been experimenting with using a soft bristle brush and pastewax on them, with some good results. I have not resorted to doing this with my Norge collection yet... hoping there might be some expert advice out there. Anybody specialize in collecting those wartime irons?
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts
 Posted 05/16/2012  6:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The best method of protecting any coin is to keep them from moisture and air. The Oxygen in the air does a lot of damage to any coins regardless of the type of metal. Oxyger reacts with almost everything metal.
1. Place them in what is called a 2x2 flip. That will not guarantee completely air tight conditions but will keep the greatest amount of air and mositure from your coins.
2. If you use Albums for those coins, place them in a Zip Lock Plastic bag. Press out as much air as possible prior to closing.
3. Remember removing some of the rust also removes some of the original metal so stopping the rusting is a first. Then possibly not removing what is there may also be a good idea.
4. If you do want to try something, try coating them in an completely acid free type of oil. After that, then use the 2x2's.
5. Good idea of using the gun bluing on your home made coinage. Many of the Gun Bluing solutions contain metal preservatives which is one of the reasons it was started.
Note on the intructions it usually states to finish your Bluing with an oil rub.
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sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21788 Posts
 Posted 05/16/2012  10:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I rub my iron or steel coins with oil from the suspension in in my car, because it's not agressive.
My car does not have springs or shock absorbers, but hydraulic struts, with nitrogen filled diaphragm spheres.

I have some Chinese iron cash, and some European wartime issue steel coins.
This treatment works well with zinc and tin coins as well. They do not tarnish if treated well, then enclosed in 2 x 2's.

Also works well with little used tools, which would otherwise be inclined to rust.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
United States
4132 Posts
 Posted 05/16/2012  10:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Although this is not iron-specific advice, I prefer Mylar* 2x2s because it's the strongest gas barrier. They're the most common type, but acetate ones are pretty common too.

* Mylar is a brand name for biaxially-oriented polyethylene terephthalate, AKA BoPET and may be sold as such.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
05/16/2012 10:56 pm
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