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Replies: 23 / Views: 4,465 |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Since there is no such thing as a manufacturers suggested retail price on coins, the lowest price is the face value. From there it could go up to millions of dollars. The real, true, absolute values of any coin is what YOU are willing to pay for it.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
7840 Posts |
I was at a coin show a couple weeks back looking for 7070 material, nothing in particular, but I stumbled across a 1866 Shield nickel (which I need), VF-ish condition, 2x2 price was $95, I asked what was his "rock-bottom" price, he looked at the "Grey Sheet" and said $80. I thought about it (for seemed like an eternity), and gave him the coin back and said that I was looking for a $70 Shield with rays, and thanked him for his time. I made a lap around the building and he asked me if I had any luck finding my Shield with rays, I told him no, maybe next time. It was getting close to closing time and he said that he would take $70 for the same nickel. SOLD! Sometimes it does pay off to "wait it out" especially near closing time at a coin show. Sometimes it does come down to "give and take", and "entertain" all offers.
Edited by oih82w8 05/24/2012 12:17 pm
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
500 Posts |
No offfense, Just Carl, but this type of post is worthless. It is posted by MANY everytime a thread on prices and lists comes up. And it doesn't help anyone to remind them that coin pricing are a YMMV proposition. I'd say that 100% of the audience KNOWS this. It doesn't help them try to find something to use as some kind of starting point. If someone says Greysheet, then that is pounced on as inaccurate. If someone else posts numismedia, others jump on that. And while I warned that I find it to be inflated 20%+ at least, I do feel it is "something" to start with. Their wholesale prices I find to be decently accurate with the market. Nothing is perfect, obviously. My advice is always to look at completed listing prices on ebay ( those that sold and those that didn't ) and the wholesale price listings and recent sale prices on Heritage. That combo makes me feel much more confident in a general ballpark $ # personally. Good Luck all! Quote: Since there is no such thing as a manufacturers suggested retail price on coins, the lowest price is the face value. From there it could go up to millions of dollars. The real, true, absolute values of any coin is what YOU are willing to pay for it.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3283 Posts |
I think if you getting around 50% of FMV your getting in the insulting zone. Whats FMV? My favorite guide is ebay completed listings but grade discrepancies and ebay fees add a curve ball into the mix.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
500 Posts |
I'd certainly agree that a 0.01 offer is an intended insult and I'd be po-ed if someone wasted my time like that as a seller. But throwing a hissy fit over an 80% of retail offer I find ridiculous. upstate, you state that 50% of FMV ( which is the euphemism for RETAIL LIST - IMO ) qualifies as insulting. But then I've had sellers accept "best offers" that low and won auctions for well below that % as well. So it is hard to know where to draw that line - as is my point to this thread. I tend not to offer something ridiculously low - as I perceive it from looking at past auctions and lists. And obviously the rarity and "availability" comes into play as that pushes me to offer closer to retail than a coin that is very plentiful and abundent etc. Some coins are very tuff to come by, particularly slabbed NGC/PCGS coins, and it is unrealistic to think you can haggle below 85% of retail for them. Others can be had for a lot less than that - but obviously cleaning/altering comes into play more as well. Good Luck all! basebal21 wrote: Quote:After thinking about it more there certainly are potential offers that are insulting. At the same time, especially on ebay, first offers should be a bit of a low ball if you are trying to work out a price you are both happy with. Most sellers will come down a little and you can see if you can work something out knowing you didnt offer what you were willing to pay the first time. Or you can just say this is what I will offer but and no more. But if a coin is worth 70 and listed for 90 and you offer 50-60 that shouldnt be considered insulting. Just like the dealer has to leave himself room for profit in his listing, the buy has to leave himself room in his first offer as well. If you offer 70 off the bat you will most likely end up with a final offer of 80 or 80+. That is the art of the "deal" and haggling. I am sometimes amazed at a seller taking my first offer. But then they don't know if I will make a 2nd or 3rd - and I sometimes will not - so if they pass at a price that they are happy with - even if I've left room for more - then they are out an acceptable offer. I sometimes make a "take it or leave it" offer, but sometimes leave a little room for haggling/counter, it depends on the coin and asking price. I have had sellers contact me after originally turning down an offer - that they regretted and would sell it to me for that if I still wanted it. Sometimes I have already bought another cheaper, other times I have agreed.
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
Quote: That is the art of the "deal" and haggling. I am sometimes amazed at a seller taking my first offer. But then they don't know if I will make a 2nd or 3rd - and I sometimes will not - so if they pass at a price that they are happy with - even if I've left room for more - then they are out an acceptable offer. I sometimes make a "take it or leave it" offer, but sometimes leave a little room for haggling/counter, it depends on the coin and asking price.
I have had sellers contact me after originally turning down an offer - that they regretted and would sell it to me for that if I still wanted it. Sometimes I have already bought another cheaper, other times I have agreed. I go back and forth on it myself with the method I try and use. I have done the low ball lets work something out and I've done the take it or leave it. A lot depends on the seller. I have made a few purchases from David Lawrence where you get to make 1 offer and only 1 offer. With them I always just low ball it and if they take it great, if not Ill consider their counter offer since they always make one. You can tell a lot about how do able the deal is by their first counter offer. I've had counter offers come in where you know youll be able to get it done and others where the dealer only dropped a dollar in price on an already over priced coin. Sometime I wish you could just skip all the haggling and just get an honest response and save everyones time
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2120 Posts |
Quote: "Thank You for showing it to me" no matter what. I do this also. Big part of building a relation ship with dealers. Even if you don't buy something, many will remember "that polite fellow."
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Valued Member
United States
227 Posts |
I know this thread is a couple weeks stale but I wanted to add another thought.
My dad is exceptionally good at getting a good deal on things, whatever it is... maybe a car or negotiating salary and benefits. According to my mom, since I haven't been actually present for these things, he is fearless in what he asks for. Its funny because she literally shudders at the thought of doing what he does in person. So I'm guessing when it comes to buying things he lowballs in some form or another.
I guess what I'm trying to say is that its a game... if a price isn't fixed its up to the buyer to play the game and get the best price while the seller is trying to get the most. Lowballing is a strategy and it is a completely justifiable one because it is effective for obvious reasons. For someone to be insulted is stupid because there is nothing personal about it. Sometimes you see high-balling and low-balling combined... you get buyers offering 25% of ask because 25% of ask is actually still 80% of FMV. So there really isn't any amount that can be considered "too low", nor one "too high", and certainly it should never be insulting.
Also just to add: naturally, we're raised and taught to try not to offend people because its socially unacceptable. Plus most people just want people to like them in general. So when a seller tells you he is upset and offended/insulted by the offer (maybe in a less extreme way than this OP story), you have to realize that he's just trying to make you feel bad about your offer. All he's trying to do is get more money out of you in the end whether its right then for that item, or one in the future. If you want to get the item at the best price you can you have to not care at all about what the seller is going to think.
Edited by donkrx 06/09/2012 12:27 pm
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Replies: 23 / Views: 4,465 |