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Just Bought A 1834 Bust Quarter Error, Opinions Please!

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benchfreak221's Avatar
United States
123 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  09:52 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add benchfreak221 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Just bought this 1834 bust quarter error and I am kind of new to collecting coins. I saw it and it look like it may be a good buy. Not sure about the grading or the error. Any comments would really help. I can post more pic too.

Just-Bought-A-1834-Bust-Quarter-Error,-Opinions-Please!
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biokemist6's Avatar
United States
12437 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  10:41 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add biokemist6 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

I hate to be the bearer of bad news but that appears to be two lumps of solder. Can you post a bigger picture without the shadow?
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Broken-Coin's Avatar
United States
1812 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  11:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Broken-Coin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I also agree that it's 2 lumps of solder...
Coins normally don't have extra metal as the planchet weights are the same, and coins that do look like thay have extra metal are in fact Cuds, caused by die breaks where a piece of the broken die falls off and leaves a blob where the die design was, another marker is oppisite the blob area is a weak strike due to poor metal flow...
The only "extra metal" coins that I know of are the clad dime planchets punched from a strip of Quarter stock, Quarters struck from 1/2 Dollar Clad stock, etc...
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Broken-Coin's Avatar
United States
1812 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  11:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Broken-Coin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I forgot to mention that to remove the solder, Radio Shack used to sell de-solder braid (thin copper wire braid with flux to absorb the solder), where you would gently place the braided wire over the solder area and hold a soldering iron/gun oner the braid to remove the solder... I have used this many times for circuits and not coins, but see no reason why it wouldn't work as well on coins...
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Broken-Coin's Avatar
United States
1812 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  11:20 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Broken-Coin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
***darn typo's***
The above should read "hold the soldering iron/gun OVER the braid to remove ----", and not "ONER"...
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ExoGuy's Avatar
United States
4417 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  11:44 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add ExoGuy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Welcome aboard, Benchfreak221. Sadly, your "mint error" is PMD or Post-Mint Damage. The metal, likely solder, was applied after the coin was struck. This may have been done so the coin's reverse would be utilized on some jewelry or personal item of sorts?
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Conder101's Avatar
United States
17884 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  12:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Conder101 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I have used this many times for circuits and not coins, but see no reason why it wouldn't work as well on coins...

It will work IF they used lead based solder as on your circuits. But most of the time the solder seen on coins is silver solder and your soldering iron an solder wick isn't going to do any good because it doesn't get up to the 1100 degrees or more you need for melting the silver solder. (Lead based solder melts around 400 degrees) It takes a torch based iron (or just a torch) and the fine wire of the solder wick can't take that kind of heat.
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United States
3184 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  1:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mkman123 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
post mint damage, return it and get your money back
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benchfreak221's Avatar
United States
123 Posts
 Posted 07/13/2012  7:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add benchfreak221 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for all the input. I am going to try and get my money back.
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