| Author |
 Replies: 10 / Views: 1,765 |
|
|
Valued Member
Sweden
347 Posts |
I find it really hard to grade a coin. When I looks through the catalogue I almost always go for the VF price. I don't know, maybe 95% of my coins are in VF condition, or I'm just bad in grading my collection (and I go for number two  ) Could someone please explain what to look for, how to think or just show how an VG, F, VF, XF, aUNC and UNC coin looks like (ok, I know UNC, but still, just so I can see all grades next to each other). I'll start right away with a question: What would you say this coins' condition is?   Thanks! *** Moved by Staff to a more appropriate forum. *** |
|
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United Kingdom
1351 Posts |
Hi
Buy a book on coin grading.There is a good one for British coins.
Buy the books before the coins.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
Due to the simple nature of the detail of the design of this particular coin, it is really hard to grade. It does have some mint lustre.
I will try:
nearly Uncirculated.
|
|
Valued Member
 Sweden
347 Posts |
I don't really do coin grading that much, I just find it interesting to see the catalogue value. I have two books of Swedish coins, and there it's some examples of the different grades (in this case the Swedish grades). So from that scale most of my coins seems to be VF, but in reality I doubt it - somehow. Wow! Would you realy grade this coin as nearly UNC, sel_69l?  |
|
Bedrock of the Community
Australia
21788 Posts |
Krause# 158 lists this coin in uncirculated at $U.S. 2,000, but I cannot tell you why the value is so high, when 800,000 are reported as being struck, and would make it a relatively common coin.
The Krause catalog indicates that this coin was struck in nickel, which means it has a silver colour, and is magnetic. Nickel is a hard metal, and so the coin would have suffered very little wear in limited circulation. For this reason, I would expect that almost all surviving coins of this issue would be around EF condition.
Perhaps some other CCF member can reveal a little more about this coin. I would like to know more about it myself.
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
I too am a lousy grader on coins. But then for me it makes no difference sinc I never sell coins. I see no purpose in worrying about the grade of a coin if not selling. For my Albums, I just try to put the better looking ones in and then take the worser ones out, put in a 2x2, then in a box and forgotten. There is that Red Book, page 9, with explanations on grading. I looked at it a few times and said to myself, nice to know, but not for me. I'll stick to being a lousy grader. |
|
Pillar of the Community
Russian Federation
5177 Posts |
Yeah, it's hard to grade meaningfully due to such a simple design; I personally would call its "grade" XF-AU.
In hand, I'd probably look at the lions' necks for a more exact grade, but it's hard to see in this picture (and possibly won't matter enough anyway).
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
3486 Posts |
Ngdawa,
I just looked at my own coins listed on my numista inventory.
I had trouble choosing which of the limited grading categories in which to enter a check mark.
So, for want of a better solution, I did the following:
Fine - details clear. Less than clear I choose VG.
Details sharp - I chose VF.
Luster present - I choose XF.
To buy every book about the coins of every country is impractical.
But, check out my criteria against your Swedish books. Perhaps there is a common ground upon which to build.
I find the conditions in the French version quite interesting:
B TB TTB SUP
I take this to be:
bon, tres bon, tres tres bon, superior
which means:
good, very good, very very good, superior.
French is SO precise!
Good luck! Let me know if I can be of help to you.
|
|
Valued Member
Sweden
347 Posts |
Yeah. Well, the main reason why I'd like to learn/improve how to grade coins is mostly for my own sake. I get more and more interested in the values of my coins and coins in general. (Sometimes my friends finds foreign and older coins, and asks me what I think it's worth). That's pretty much what it says in my "Coins of Sweden" book, matthewvincent. That's why I've graded most of my coins as VF  . Sometimes I think like; "well, this one is nicer than that one, and if that's a VF, this must me an F." LOL! So, when Numista wanted me to grade all my coins, I just put about 95% of them as VF. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1840 Posts |
I also find it difficult to grade coins with simple designs. When looking at German coins, I like to reference MA-Shops. I figure the Germans know best how to grade their coins: http://ma-shops.com/shops/search.ph...&curr=USDEURBased on what is listed there, I'd say XF would be a reasonable grade. I could see why some would grade it AU based on the luster that appears to be present, but feel that the heavy contact marks detract from the overall grade. |
|
Pillar of the Community
Luxembourg
588 Posts |
This one has some scratches.
Including one serious on the right of the ship and several minor ones.
I think that makes too much for XF but it is still too nice for only VF.
I would go for a VF-XF
|
| |
Replies: 10 / Views: 1,765 |
|
Posted 09/09/2012 11:11 am
