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Variety Coin Photos

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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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 Posted 01/02/2013  12:38 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Last night I tried using my ring light for some variety shots (my usual smile-director setup for the whole-coin shots). I'm not sure I'm that happy with the result. The lack of competing light sources does make for less distractions, but the result is so flat that it almost hides the variety. Blowing up the full-coin images to a larger size almost presents it better.

I'd like to get a diffuse lighting, but not completely shadowless, like the ring-light, but it's hard to get the lights at a high enough angle at high magnifications.

(The color of the 2004 is accurate - it really has iridescent, bile-colored toning.)

Variety-Coin-Photos
2004 Lincoln Memorial cent DDO / DDR by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
2004 Lincoln Memorial cent DDO / DDR by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
2011 Lincoln Shield cent DDO by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
2011 Lincoln Shield cent DDO by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
2011 Lincoln Shield cent DDO by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
2011 Lincoln Shield cent DDO by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 01/02/2013  12:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Try it with a single direct light (no diffusion). You want contrast for a variety, and light from a single direction will highlight doubling and such.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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 Posted 01/02/2013  4:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I don't like the rainbow-sparkle effect from undiffused Jansjös. I guess I'll have to experiment some more.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 01/02/2013  5:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Do I recall correctly that you're shooting an 18MP Canon? I ran into the same "sparkle" with my T2i, and have pretty much concluded it's related to the pixel density of the sensor. You might face the problem with any direct lighting.
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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 Posted 01/02/2013  5:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yeah, I have a T3i which has the same sensor as a T2i. But I don't think it's an artifact of the sensor (at least, not entirely). I can see the rainbow-sparkle effect with my bare eyes with coins (and other metallic things) held under the Jansjö lights. Sometimes you can see the same effect to a lesser extent in strong sunlight, so I think it has something to do with harsh, highly-directional light interacting with fine surface features.
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 Posted 01/03/2013  12:01 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It looks like your ringlight is fairly large in diameter and is hitting the coin at too low an angle. For varieties, I have been using ringlights with 50-60mm diameters, and putting them 100-150mm away from the coin. This gets the angle up similar to my dual-source setup.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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 Posted 01/03/2013  12:08 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you really want to do a good job with variety shots, I recommend using a microscope objective. The setup that works best for me is:

M42 extension
M42-RMS tapered adapter
4x or 5x Microscope objective
Half Ping-Pong ball diffuser

Total length of camera register (44mm for Canon), extension, and tapered adapter needs to be 150-160mm. The tiny diameter of the microscope objective allows you to get light in very effectively using the ping pong ball and one or two Jansjos. If there is any interest I can publish a pic of the setup.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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 Posted 01/03/2013  02:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A photo would be helpful. The ping-pong ball diffuser sounds more convenient at close distances than the ringlight. Do you have recommendations for specific microscope objectives?

Here is a new attempt with my '72 DDO #2. The close-ups are stacked with Zerene stacker and a new and improved Lego focus block.

Variety-Coin-Photos
1972 Lincoln Memorial cent DDO by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
1972 Lincoln Memorial cent DDO #2 by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
1972 Lincoln Memorial cent DDO #2 by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
1972 Lincoln Memorial cent DDO #2 by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr

Variety-Coin-Photos
1972 Lincoln Memorial cent DDO #2 by CaptainFwiffo, on Flickr
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
01/03/2013 02:35 am
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 Posted 01/03/2013  10:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here's a pic of the setup I'm currently using. The objective is a Nikon P4/0.1, which is a very affordable objective. You can't really see it in the pic due to the ping pong diffuser but you can see its upper knurling and red indicator ring. I mounted the ping pong diffuser onto the objective itself but you also have the option of mounting it using the RMS threads since this objective is quite small. A small Nikon M5 or other small objectives from Olympus, etc will work well for this. The NA=0.1 objectives are most common at this magnification, and are equivalent to infinity f4 or effective f20. This is far from the best you can get at this magnification (NA=0.2 are available) but even at f20 you will need to do 5-10 image stacks. With the NA=0.2 objectives you would need typically 30 image stacks and the result is only slightly better for web publishing.

Variety-Coin-Photos
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
Edited by rmpsrpms
01/03/2013 10:58 am
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CaptainFwiffo's Avatar
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 Posted 01/03/2013  2:48 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Do you light the ping-pong ball at 10:30 and 1:30?

Could you give a little more explanation about the objective? I don't understand the terminology used with them, and searching on ebay isn't elucidating. Does P4 mean Plan 4x? Or 4x power? I want one of the ones with "160/-" on it, right?
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 Posted 01/03/2013  5:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Exactly...you can move the light(s) around to shine from whatever direction best emphasizes the shadowing on the variety. You can also use a ringlight and the ping pong ball will diffuse it nicely.

P4 0.1 is what is marked on this objective. It means Plan 4x with Numerical Aperture 0.1. The objective does not state the tube length or if it needs a cover slip, so I believe it is assumed to be 160mm and no cover slip, ie 160/- as you said. Any tube length is OK, but I recommend avoiding "infinite" objectives (they have infinity symbol/cover slip thickness). You also want to avoid anything requiring a cover slip. All finite metallurgical (M) objectives are OK to use. So acceptable types would be marked:
P4 0.1
Plan 4 0.13
4x 0.1
SemiPlan4 0.15 160/-
etc...



Ray
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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 Posted 01/03/2013  10:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CaptainFwiffo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The infinity corrected ones would, I assume, need a lens focused at infinity acting as a tube lens?
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 Posted 01/03/2013  10:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Yes, most are designed for 200mm lenses, though some are for 180mm. You can use most any lens as a tube lens. This is fairly convenient for setups using a long macro lens but otherwise it's a completely different setup. Quality is excellent with some of the infinite objectives, though. I own a 5x 0.14 Mitutoyo that is apochromatic and gives superb results, but I never use it since I have the bellows setup and it's just not convenient...Ray
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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