Here's my strategy. I labeled some condiment cups with the dates/MMs. Readable dates get sorted accordingly, checking for the PCGS varieties when appropriate.
Unreadable dates are further examined for: - type I - doubled feathers which would indicate 1916 DDO - doubling on FIVE CENTS as in 1935 - mint mark doubling or D/S (although 1938 coins probably still have readable dates - '2 feathers' - 3 or 3 1/2 legs, although those coins would likely not have much circulation so dates would probably be readable
Anything missing from this list?
I'm happily finding more readable dates than expected. And I just found a mint state coin-- just a 1937, but it was surprising and very cool. I'll take pictures of it for grading later. We have so few MS coins and I find it hard to distinguish between the MS grades.
I noticed some interesting clashes on dateless buffs (I'm using a scope to look at those) and wondered if they add any value or if they can lead to determination of date. Perhaps they can. I googled and found this site: http://www.maddieclashes.com/nickels.html
lol, epikur... thanks for that. Now I'll have that earworm all day
Taking a break now, barely started but I couldn't resist starting a spreadsheet already. I won't bore you with the total breakdown (yet), but so far:
568 examined - 368 with readable dates (I was surprised by this. Some are partial but the dates are definite) - Of the 368, 124 are from 1930 or earlier - most of the pre-1930 are FR-AG - most of the rest of the readables are AG-G (the 1935 and higher dates are better but not great, except for one mint state 1937)
Unreadable dates: - 13 1913 type 1 - 1 1913-S type 1 - 7 with wavy ribbons so I might be able to determine a date when I take a closer look - 1 *possible* 1916 DDO - 2 two-feathers - 2 possible 1913 or 1914 TDC-01 clash - 1 1916 ADC-01 clash - 17 more clashed coins which I will examine in more detail - 8 *almost* readable dates, will take another look - 86 dateless with no secondary markers of date - 62 which I need to re-examine for secondary signs of date since I added more clues to the list after sorting those.
I need to change my handle to ThisIsWayTooMuchFun!
Thanks for those tips. Seems like every day I learn of new things to look for. Obviously even a 'first pass' sorting is going to take much longer than I thought.
I took a few pics with the USB scope and will post them separately. That camera doesn't take the best pictures. When I find things more picture-worthy I'll use the grown-up camera.
As for the *possible* 1916 DDO, I think it may be minor doubling of the feathers. I'll take a closer look at it and may post some pictures if it seems interesting.
No idea at this point. First I need to see what's there, sort them, get some idea of what's everything is worth. I'm examining all these coins for my mom-- they are her coins, although my brother and I can keep a good portion of it if we want (I certainly plan to). I certainly don't need 30+ lbs of buffaloes though. I have a couple of people who have offered to buy any/all of the silver but we're not selling any more until I see what we really have.
At some point after they're all bagged and tagged I may put together a set or three of Buffs to sell. Maybe if there are a few exceptional coins we'll sell those separately. Not sure of the best way to sell the buffs when the time comes but it looks like it going to take a looooooong time to examine them, and I still have to go through the Morgans, Peace, Mercs, check the Indians for Snow varieties, etc. I'm having such a good time I don't care if it takes longer than exepected. We sold most of the gold so Mom is content and I can take my time and more carefully go about organizing the rest.
I moved most of the coins to a more secure location (~170 lbs!!) and am taking a few parcels at a time for examination. I wanted to get them out of her house (and my house) because it seemed like an risk having them around.
There are a few other threads that discuss identifying dateless buffalos. Essentially, anything from 1920, 1921, and 1924 can be identified with certainty. Beyond that, there are ways of picking out other dates based primarily on the level of wear of LIBERTY and the rim next to it, as well as the size, style, and position of the mintmark (if applicable). Such identification, however, is much more difficult and is impossible to be 100% accurate.
The 1916 DDO is very prominent and if anyone thinks it only possible, it likely isn't the true overdate.
I agree that a dateless 3.5 legger is probably a 1917-D, but people have turned up coins that show a poorly struck leg on many dates. I often see sellers asking exorbitant prices for these coins and they never sell. Unless you have personal interest is such a variety (which would be a noble and fine pursuit) it is probably not worthwhile to separate those, particularly because many examples are borderline "difficult to say" cases with no premium at all. I am not aware of the 36-D 3.5, or 37-D 3-legger ever turning up in a dateless lot.
I have much the same feeling towards 2-feather variety pieces, dated or otherwise. They have a certain following with a small website dedicated to their existence, but they don't seem to ever sell either for anything other than their regular price. I've seen a price guide attach values to such coins about 10-20% above normal for the grade, but never saw that come to fruition in actual sales.
I think the final tally may be higher. I'm working on a not-quite-full quart ziplock bag right now and it was only about half empty when the count reached 600. I think there are three more quart bags and one of them is completely full, so there may be ~4000-5000 buffaloes.
I can't seem to stick with one coin type for too long because I'm always itching to look at something else. I think I'll take a buffalo break and use my new Snow attribution guides to take a closer look at some of the nicer Indian cents now that I have a USB scope.
On the second of 4 large bags now-- not going to count them up til I'm done.
I've noticed a trait that may be useful for determining dateless 1925 buffs. The ribbons are closer together and stay more parallel. And, the recess between the ribbons seems to be deeper than other dateless nickels-- you can see the recess further distally than the other dateless nickels with similar wear. As far as I can tell, only the 1925 and 1923 look this way and the 23 is slightly wider with a bit more curve to the left ribbon. Neither of those dates is hugely valuable but they are worth a little more than some other dates.
@weerdsteev and @CaptainFwiffo-- have you noticed this? I'll take some pictures later and post separately.
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Posted 01/10/2013 08:11 am
