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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,702 |
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Valued Member
United States
160 Posts |
Hi, all... I was recently introduced (on this forum) to different price guides...I have a "Red Book," but have been told that the prices shown are generally "too high." I was referred to "NumisMedia," and to "Grey Sheets," and also had "Blue Book" mentioned. From what I understand, the "Grey Sheet" is what a dealer will refer to, when offering a seller a price for a given coin -- however, it looks like these must be purchased monthly, in order to have up-to-date prices. Meanwhile, I see prices on the NumisMedia website, for a given coin at a given grade; what might these prices represent? Buy price? Sell price? For instance, it shows an 1850 Gold Dollar in AU-50 condition to have a "fair market value" of $252. I assume this is for a slabbed coin from a major TPG, bearing that grade? Is this a "buy" price, or a "sell" price? And, what about the "Blue Book" that someone mentioned? What do it's prices represent? If anyone can give me a bit more info, I'd really appreciate it!
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4589 Posts |
Yes, the grey sheets have dealer-to-dealer (wholesale) bid & ask prices.
The NumisMedia FMV is supposed to be an accurate VALUE, not a selling or buying price.
Red books et al are just too out of date - there's at least a 3 month and possibly 9-12 month lag. IIRC Blue book was also wholesale. Or was that the black book?
-----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
BStrauss3 -- so, is the only way to get grey sheet prices to purchase the books monthly? There's no "online" source for those prices? Gotcha on the "NumisMedia;" and, I understand what you are saying about the Red Book values. So, here's a REALLY bad question -- what is a "bid" and an "ask" price? Steve
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Pillar of the Community
United States
2543 Posts |
You check the Red Book , Blue Book and get a range between perceived buy and sell prices. You check the Greysheet to get a real time indication of what dealers are paying for coins between themselves. Then go to NumisMedia to get an indication of real time worth to the collector. Finally check ebay, Heritage, Stacks-Bower and Great Collections, to get an indication of what people are paying for this coin at auction. Add this all together and you will determine what your coin is worth. Bid and ask are pretty much what they imply. Like stocks, the ask price is generally what the sellers are asking for coins and bid is what buyers are offering for the same coins, all in generalities of course. If you are buying, you pay the ask price, if you are selling you get the bid price, the difference is the profit to the dealer/transactor.
Edited by denco7 12/30/2013 7:58 pm
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: BStrauss3 -- so, is the only way to get grey sheet prices to purchase the books monthly? There's no "online" source for those prices?
Greysheet is published weekly. It's available as print, online, or a combination of the two. Any way you look at it, it's a dealer-centric, industry publication which will cost you. Bid is what dealers who want to buy are offering, Ask is what dealers who are selling are asking for the coin. You'll be lucky to see either of these numbers as a private purchaser. My personal idea of "price guide" is what people are paying for real coins in the real world today; only Greysheet even comes close.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Try to understand that unlike some itmes, coins do not really have a manufacturers suggested list price. The only real price for any coin is what is stamped on them. For example a Dime is really only worth 10 cents or 1 tenth of a dollar, no more, no less. There are many, many price guides on the market. You forgot to mention the PCGS web sige price guide. That one too is like the Red Book, excessive in values. And although many dealers like to use the Grey sheet, many others don't. The Red Book is over priced on everything. The Blue book is so far under it too is a joke. If you go to Google and type in coin prie guides, you would get about 5 million hits. That is a lot of price guides. And none are really a true price guide since the only real one is what someone will pay for a coin. This is why so many go to ebay to see what a coin is selling for. Regardless of what any guide says, a coin is only worth what someone will pay for it.
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
Some great info here, guys...thanks! Denco -- thanks for the info on the "bid" and "ask" thing...makes sense. So, the Red Book and PCGS are too high; Blue book is too low; NumisMedia is how much a coin might be worth to a collector, greysheet is kind of a "wholesale" value, and the best indication is what things are currently selling for -- ebay, Heritage, etc. Complicated, but it does make some sense. Yes, Carl, something is "worth" what people are willing to pay for it...so seeing what different types of people are paying for something would be the way to determine current "value." Obviously, a dealer pays a lower price, and a collector pays a higher price usually (since they usually get them from a dealer). Sort of a "wholesale" and "retail" perspective, I guess... Steve
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
ebay probably is the best real time indicator of pricing, especially since most things have a lot of examples for a price history. Everything else is basically just ballpark figures. If its something rare enough that ebay has no listings or history for it you can go ahead and throw the price guides out the window when one does finally show up. It took me almost a year to find a VF 1896 0 barber half for under the numismedia price. Then to complicate things further eye appeal will come into play as well. If it has superior eye appeal for its grade it will usually go above price guides, but more blah looking coins will go for under. The more you look around the more you can kind of figure out whats worth overpaying for that you really want and what youre better off waiting for the next one on.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: The only real price for any coin is what is stamped on them. Carl, in a long history of excellent posting here, that may be the single finest line you've ever typed. It says so much, with so little, and I hope you don't mind me using it again in the future. I'll credit you. 
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4589 Posts |
GreySheet also sells one-offs. Unless you are looking at a very volatile part of the marketplace, as a collector, an occasional purchase will be more than sufficient for your needs.
-----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1590 Posts |
I'm a dealer and, while I do use the greysheet; I generally use ebay completed listings to set my prices. Why? Simple; ebay is the real world. Yes, you can go to Heritage et al, and look at real prices SOME people are paying. However; many times you can find the same coin (assuming it is not something exotic like a Brasher Doubloon), on ebay for much less. It's like the Barrett-Jackson Car Auction. I used to own a Car Restoration business. I had a good friend who insisted that he sell his Car at Barrett-Jackson rather than use the normal selling outlets. For weeks he bragged to anyone and everyone that HIS car was selling at Barrett-Jackson. He even carried around the Cat. to show everyone. The final bid WAS more than what he could have gotten "on the street", but subtract the buyers fees and premiums; the Catalogue ( yes I know I can't spell), transportation and TAXES, he ended up with 10 percent less than what he would have made selling it in other venues. So be aware that people will sell on Heritage et al, and those are real prices. But they do not show what the seller actually pocketed. ebay is your best bet, and even then you need to subtract 13 percent to arrive at the "REAL" price of a coin.
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Valued Member
 United States
160 Posts |
Bstrauss -- thanks for the info on the "one offs..." Good to know. jmkendall -- I recently visited two coin dealers in my area, and BOTH referred to ebay for "pricing," so it's interesting that you said that. One of them even had "grey sheets" sitting there, but used ebay as his "pricing guide," for the most part... Steve
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4589 Posts |
A lot depends on what the item is. If we're talking dirt common - say a MS69 State Quarter in oh, NGC holder - there is enough volume everywhere to give solid pricing. Dozens sell each day. So it's basically a commodity - in fact it will probably be listed in the blue sheets (sight UNSEEN dealer pricing). But the rarer and less common the item, the more difficult to price. We all talk about how hard it is to grade raw coins from pictures and detect cleanings and fakes - so that "price" from ebay could be influenced by several factors UP or DOWN... equally could be somebody thinks they see a nightcrawler Ike and bids it up a bit - is that valid for ALL Brown Box Ikes? No. Etc. Ultimately, an item is worth what somebody will pay for it and equally you will only pay what it's worth to you. Unless you are buying only the finest known, be patient and another will come along. Just like busses.
-----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/
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Replies: 12 / Views: 1,702 |
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