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First Shots With My Well Over $350 Setup... Updated :)

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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
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 Posted 01/03/2014  11:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Can I assume you're leaving all this expensive lighting in the box when shooting coins? It's totally incompatible with Job One of coin imaging, which is to get the coin and the lens completely parallel. That's almost impossible with the camera horizontal.
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srs77's Avatar
United States
3170 Posts
 Posted 01/03/2014  11:21 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add srs77 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Can I assume you're leaving all this expensive lighting in the box when shooting coins? It's totally incompatible with Job One of coin imaging, which is to get the coin and the lens completely parallel. That's almost impossible with the camera horizontal.


Actually, I shoot a little different than most. I do shoot horizontal and the way that I do this is to stand the coin up against a black or white backdrop. I am better at leveling the camera this way.

Now, that being said, this at times can be difficult as you must have a level floor (obviously) and have a little patience. This allows me to light my subject as I wish.

The better question is are these lights overkill for this... well YES! Unless you're doing it as a career and for money.

For me it's a little of both as I do side jobs for product photography and portrait/wedding photography.

I definitely understand what you are saying but this set up works for me.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
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 Posted 01/03/2014  11:28 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I definitely understand what you are saying but this set up works for me.


Fair enough. Guessing you're not standing the coin perfectly on edge - tough, from a balance standpoint - the usual pro-tip for making lens and coin parallel applies: set a pocket mirror at the same angle the coin will tilt, and then adjust the camera so you see the lens centered in the viewfinder. Instant square on all axes. Of course, the fact that your images are not only perfectly cropped, but perfectly square, indicates you've got an idea how to get this done already.
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srs77's Avatar
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 Posted 01/03/2014  11:32 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add srs77 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
yes sir... been a web designer for the last 17 years and a graphic artist (corporate) for even longer. Your notes are spot on and as I've already told you, your photos and help to others simply awesome!

BTW, there are tricks to get the coin to stand on it's edge perfectly as well. Just thing of little rubber bumpers ;)
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 Posted 01/04/2014  12:06 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Now that I've seen the setup, I'm pondering how you might get the lighting up to a higher angle. The Portalites are huge, and diffuse over a pretty wide angle. I'd actually suggest using just one of them, and place it behind the camera, with wide axis horizontal. This will do a couple things for you:

1) Greatly reduce the total diffusion angle, possibly improving luster presentation
2) Raise the effective angle vs "horizontal" of your lights

It may be best to obscure the center portion of the Portalite to split it effectively into two sources. I do that with diffusers now, but on a smaller scale, and it allows me to use just a single Jansjo for coins(!!).

By the way, is that a black cat under the Portalite in middle picture? I see just a pair of green feline eyes...

Ray
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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Canadian-Banknotes's Avatar
Canada
4944 Posts
 Posted 01/04/2014  12:11 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Canadian-Banknotes to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
By the way, is that a black cat under the Portalite in middle picture? I see just a pair of green feline eyes...

I think it's just some buckles or loops on a bag.

It does look like a cat though.
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srs77's Avatar
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3170 Posts
 Posted 01/04/2014  10:55 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add srs77 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Now that I've seen the setup, I'm pondering how you might get the lighting up to a higher angle. The Portalites are huge, and diffuse over a pretty wide angle. I'd actually suggest using just one of them, and place it behind the camera, with wide axis horizontal. This will do a couple things for you:

1) Greatly reduce the total diffusion angle, possibly improving luster presentation
2) Raise the effective angle vs "horizontal" of your lights

It may be best to obscure the center portion of the Portalite to split it effectively into two sources. I do that with diffusers now, but on a smaller scale, and it allows me to use just a single Jansjo for coins(!!).

By the way, is that a black cat under the Portalite in middle picture? I see just a pair of green feline eyes...

Ray


Ray, my light poles reach a height of 9 Feet so I can reposition the lights just about any way. I have loads of experimenting to do.... I think what you're seeing is one of my camera bags... not a black cat...
Edited by srs77
01/04/2014 10:57 am
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 Posted 01/04/2014  12:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Probably the best placement is directly behind the camera, skewed toward 12:00 relative to the coin. A light block at 12:00 will keep light from hitting central highlights directly. You might try moving the diffuser back to further increase the effective angle, or alternatively block the outer portions of the diffuser as well as center...Ray
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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23522 Posts
 Posted 01/04/2014  1:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I suspect the lights may make you a bit with lustrous silver; try something like that if you have one in stock to find out early.
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srs77's Avatar
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 Posted 01/04/2014  4:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add srs77 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
SsuperDdave...

High luster coins are always more difficult to shoot and I know I've got loads of experimenting to do with the lights. I took one other members suggestion of raising the lights (albeit only one of them) to about a 6 foot height at a 45 degree angle from the coin and the other sitting pretty much at same height as the coin itself but from the other side.

This is a BU Jefferson nickel I have. It's my first test with a high luster coin. Thoughts? I think I can improve it but will take a little experimentation. Jefferson's face is a little hot under his eye and on his chin. Dialing down the flash some should help there and I want to try difference positioning for the lights to see what affect that has. Photoshop was only used for cropping the picture down.

First-Shots-With--My-Well-Over-$350-Setup...-Updated-:

First-Shots-With--My-Well-Over-$350-Setup...-Updated-:
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 01/04/2014  5:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Never having worked with a lighting setup like yours, I'm unsure how to advise. You're losing contrast and sharpness which your equipment is certainly capable of providing; my general advice for that situation is "less diffusion," but I don't know how that applies here. And keep in mind, even lustrous nickel is a bit more "matte" than silver, so this is yet another category of lighting headache.
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srs77's Avatar
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3170 Posts
 Posted 01/04/2014  5:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add srs77 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I hear you. It's definitely a challenge but a fun one at that. I fear less diffusion with these lights will tend to blow out the high points but that's why you give it a try to see what it can do. I'll remove the softboxes and replace with umbrellas and instead of doing a shoot through I'll bounce the lights off the umbrellas and see what I get.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
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 Posted 01/04/2014  5:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I fear less diffusion with these lights will tend to blow out the high points but that's why you give it a try to see what it can do.


You're absolutely right.
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srs77's Avatar
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3170 Posts
 Posted 01/04/2014  5:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add srs77 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here's the first shots using my umbrella set up as opposed to the soft boxes. Morgan dollar this time... Shooting through the NGC slab.

First-Shots-With--My-Well-Over-$350-Setup...-Updated-:


First-Shots-With--My-Well-Over-$350-Setup...-Updated-:
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 Posted 01/04/2014  6:50 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm still not liking what I see regarding lighting angles. Take your Morgan obverse as example...the face is dark, but edges of devices around face are bright. This is opposite what you should be targeting. Many folks talk about the "in-hand look" as being the holy grail, and it's actually a pet peeve of mine, but I will invoke it here. Pick up that Morgan and view it like you would at a coin show or at home, with a single light. What angle is the light versus the coin? Most folks hold a slabbed coin such that the light is virtually glaring off the slab surface, or a bit off from that. That's about 75-80 degrees. If you do the same, then you should be trying to get your lights to make your coin look like that. You might also purposefully hold the coin such that the light is 45-deg from horizontal. You will get little surface reflection, and the edges of the device will be bright, just like in your photo. I bet you will prefer the higher-angle position.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
http://macrocoins.com
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