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'restored' Buffalo Nickel Price Guide?

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atticguy's Avatar
United States
1373 Posts
 Posted 01/29/2014  2:29 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add atticguy to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I've looked extensively online for ANY price list/guide for restored date (acid cleaned) Buffalo nickels. I have bought a few in the past, and though I hate the way they look in my folder, they were quite inexpensive compared to unrestored varieties.

I only need three Buffalos to finish my collection: the 1913 D & S type-2's, and the three legged 37-d. One of these is on ebay now at a great discount over its regular value; but still fairly expensive.

Is there an accepted percentage one should discount the coin from its 'good' value? Does the percentage change for 'key' dates/mintages?
The coin I'm looking at is about 20% of the GOOD book price. Is that still too high?

Also, I've seen various degrees of restoration; some are just limited to the date area while others restore the entire coin surface (which are truly ugly). This would probably make a 'restored price guide' multi leveled, if there is such an animal.
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Pertinax's Avatar
United Kingdom
2133 Posts
 Posted 01/29/2014  6:37 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Pertinax to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What kind of acid do they use to restore the date ?
I would have thought any acid would remove detail.

Does the acid go on working after restoring the date ?

All my Buffalo nickels have a full date.

How can I tell whether they've been restored by acid or not ?
Valued Member
United States
105 Posts
 Posted 01/29/2014  8:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Okie1987 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The ones I see are usually acid treated just on the date and maybe mint mark. To me an acid date looks like a much rougher texture compared to the rest of the coin. If you look on ebay you will see some.
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nickelsearcher's Avatar
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 Posted 01/29/2014  9:21 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nickelsearcher to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
My humble opinion for what it is worth ...

There are no 'price guides' for restored Buffalo nickels because nearly all of the serious collecting community consider them to be not worth of a collecting set.

For sure there is a market for them ... and many folks make some money through marketing them ...

Alas I do not know of any dedicated collectors with time and patience who are adding restored date Buffalo nickels to their set.

In now way trying to denigrate your collection ... just suggesting you to consider that an honest worn example is considered by many as much better than any damaged coin.

David
Take a look at my other hobby ... http://www.jk-dk.art
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atticguy's Avatar
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 Posted 01/30/2014  12:06 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add atticguy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well, the restored 1913-s went for just over $90; well over what I wished to pay. My folder holes will have to be barren awhile longer.

I've often read that restored Buffalo nickels aren't worth more than face value. I was willing to pay $45- $50 for the one today, and several other collectors felt it was worth much more than that, so I guess they are worth something after all. The one today sold for 23% of a VG Type-2 1913-S. The ones that I had already bought went for about 10% of GOOD. It appears the percentage goes up significantly for key coins.

BTW, for those who asked, when acid is used to restore dates it dissolves the top layer of the coin (the 'nickel') to show the middle layer (copper). The acid leaves a very grey and porous looking blotch on the coin. If you have a coin that was acid treated you will know; it's quite obvious. I've never done it myself so I don't know exactly how long it takes to bring out worn details.
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861 Posts
 Posted 01/30/2014  02:36 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add g048406 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A restored 1913-s TY2 generally sells for $30-$50. Unfortunately, most 'restored' dates were done poorly and they look bad, but, there is a way to 'pretty' them up. The video below shows how a Buffalo nickel should be restored with basic vinegar and have the coin still look presentable:
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kWFWn4KGdhc
PS: though not shown in the video, add some hydrogen peroxide to the concentrated vinegar. The results are better and only take about 10 minutes.
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 Posted 01/30/2014  10:25 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jmkendall to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Agreed, for those with money a restored Buffalo is worthless. For those on a budget a restored Key Date Buffalo is an economical alternative. Especially if you are buying it as a hole filler till you can afford a better one.

Price depends on Rarity and how well it was restored. For "full value" as a restored piece it should be restored on the whole surface and not just the date and mint mark. It should be neutralized and have an overall pleasant appearance. A coin in this condition I would think should sell for 30 to 40 percent of a Coin graded Good.
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robbudo's Avatar
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 Posted 01/31/2014  08:28 am  Show Profile   Check robbudo's eBay Listings Bookmark this reply Add robbudo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
i had 20 dateless buffalos and applied 'nic-a-date' to them. It revealed dates on 18 of them just to fill holes in my album. I spent the other 2.
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 Posted 01/31/2014  10:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add just carl to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
There are no 'price guides' for restored Buffalo nickels because nearly all of the serious collecting community consider them to be not worth of a collecting set.


I just can't see a restored dated coin in my Albums. IF for some reason it was done perfectly, maybe. However, in almost every one I've seen, they look sick. I'd rather have an empty slot in the Album.
Sort of like spending many thousands on a car and then have old, worn tires on it or seats all worn out.
Edited by just carl
01/31/2014 10:31 am
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weerdsteev's Avatar
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1291 Posts
 Posted 01/31/2014  10:35 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add weerdsteev to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Echoing what others have said, there is no price guide, and probably never will be. If it ever DOES happen, however, I have registered copyrights to the grading guide. (I'm actually quite serious)

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paddy murphy's Avatar
United States
401 Posts
 Posted 01/31/2014  10:51 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paddy murphy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
weerdsteev,

Last month I posted a dateless 3 1/2 leg "D" buffalo and you suggested it looked like the 1917 I think.

To me it's interesting but not worth anything more than $0.05.

This makes me wonder: Is a dateless missing leg buffalo worth more than one given a vinegar bath?
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XavierOfGreen's Avatar
United States
2589 Posts
 Posted 01/31/2014  11:21 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add XavierOfGreen to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
When listing them for sale, I've always been happy if I can get 15 percent of numismedia in Good. The keys of course always have higher demand along with the 1918/7. There is no reason to ever acid date a three legged buffalo, since you dont need the date to identify it.
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weerdsteev's Avatar
United States
1291 Posts
 Posted 01/31/2014  12:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add weerdsteev to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
This makes me wonder: Is a dateless missing leg buffalo worth more than one given a vinegar bath?


First off, do not EVER expect to find a 1937-D 3 legger without a date. It just flat-out doesn't happen. If you've got a dateless D-mint Buffalo that seems to be missing part or all of it's right foreleg, then you've probably got a 36-D or a 17-D - or maybe just a nickel that is extremely worn all over.

Second, I don't think anyone would pay much for a POTENTIAL 36-D or 17-D, even if the date could be determined based on diagnostics. (I'd like to say that a dateless 36-D is something that can't happen, but the fact is that I have found 2 of those in my time...so that's why I bother to mention it.) People WILL pay a little bit for a nicely restored 17-D 3.5 legger, however, as THIS link shows:
[http://www.ebay.com/itm/15117874521....m1561.l2649]17D 3.5 leg[/url]


***edited to add "D-mint***
Edited by weerdsteev
01/31/2014 12:40 pm
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paddy murphy's Avatar
United States
401 Posts
 Posted 01/31/2014  12:57 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paddy murphy to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
https://goccf.com/t/163448

here's the link to thread with the possible 17-d 3 1/2 legs. Now the question is, do I remove the mystery and give it a soak, or do I just keep a nice "No-Date D-mint 3 1/2 leg" in my herd?
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weerdsteev's Avatar
United States
1291 Posts
 Posted 01/31/2014  1:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add weerdsteev to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you're just going to keep it, I'd leave it alone. Sometimes a little mystery in one's life, and in one's collection, can be a good thing.
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United States
1590 Posts
 Posted 01/31/2014  3:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jmkendall to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Carl, I think this appeals to the beginning collector on a budget. I know that most of the collectors I know are constantly upgrading their sets.

I believe that most collectors just start out trying to "fill all the holes", and then try to upgrade. I have several sets of Lincolns that I am constantly upgrading. For me Buffs are nice but not my passion. If I found a nice restored type2 13-S for the right price I would buy it and place in my album. Heck most of my Teens are AG. Lol, I do have 3 AU Teens that I got for a steal, but most of my mint marked Teens I got on ebay for 99 cents each.

That is one set that I am upgrading as the opportunity arises!
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