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Replies: 27 / Views: 6,051 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1234 Posts |
I have an art project idea bubbling away and had a few questions.
I'd like to glue pennies to glass, paper and maybe other metals, what is the best glue? Think 5-10 50 years in the future, will one glue destroy the zincolns but work well on copper after many years? Is a hot glue gun a good idea? Or will highly toxic super glue be the only option? Spray on glue or drops of glue on a tooth pick? Any pointers or tips would be great. I'm not very artistic but have a lot of great ideas.
Also what are the key dates, if any... I'm thinking post 1963-ish maybe, no Wheat's, so don't worry about them. I don't really think there are any Key's but are there any that if you saw glued into something you'd shout "WHY would you do THAT to THAT Penny?" I'm thinking US Lincolns only but might consider some Canadians which years are a no, no for them?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1300 Posts |
Aslan.. I have a "key that I use at work. And I decided to make it more personal and JB welded a buffalo nick to the end of it. And that bad boy is on there good!! And this particular key gets alot of vibration drops stuffed into pockets and has been through the washing machine once!! JB Quik will hold anything! The buff was quite worn on the obverse and this has been quite the conversation piece amongst my co-workers
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1234 Posts |
Sounds cool too.  but I was thinking more of the look don't touch type things, not Tonka tough  I'll keep JB in mind thou, thanks.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
1949 Posts |
JB weld held a bumper on my car when I was in college... That stuff will keep it on forever...
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
1005 Posts |
Glue to glass will be bonding to the penny easier. Glue to paper the paper will peel before the penny releases.
Metal to paper hot glue (are you thinking book cover?) "crazy" glue can be had in large quantities for commercial uses as "instant epoxy" I had a case of quart jugs, be careful that's a bunch of glue. Metal to glass specific epoxy Metal to metal specific epoxy
"no more nails" construction adhesive by lepage dries clear and works instantly. All purpose does not list glass. Sand glossy surfaces.
Edited by Bm0ney 02/04/2014 10:22 am
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Prior to doing this get yourself a copy of the Red Book by Whitman Publishing and check out the coins your going to use. Then, go to a hobby store and look for liquid plastic solutions. Normally it comes in two bottles and you mix them together. People use it to cover almost everything. Not sure of the spelling but some called it decopoging or something like that. I've used it to cover an enite chess board. Looks fantastic. You could lay out your coins on anything, make sure there is a rim to stop overflowing around the edges and pour the mixed liquid plastic over the entire setup. Doing this it will stay iike this forever and you can see the coins as clearly as if behind glass. To just glue coins to a surface, don't use JB Weld since it is dark and what seaps out around he edges looks horrible. Epoxy types glues will do just as well as anything. However, be carefull since some turn yellowish after time. If using Epoxy the best way would be to mix some, pour on something and let sit. Of course it may take months to either turn yellowish so you have to be patient. Gluing Pennies to other metals may create a problem. Most dissimalar metals tend to react and eventually cause decay. If gluing a metal to metal, make sure there is a layer of the glue inbetween. If there is a Ace Hardware store near you, see if they have a glue called DuCo Cement. It works great and stays clear for a long, long time.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
19957 Posts |
My choice would be a 2 part epoxy.
FYI - Super glue is not "highly toxic", it's perfectly safe or it wouldn't have been in use for so long. The only bad thing, it's really not that good of an adhesive.
Lincoln Cent Lover!VERDI-CARE™ INVENTOR https://verdi.care/
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Moderator
 Australia
16831 Posts |
I'd suggest avoiding those epoxy glues where you mix two part together; one of the "parts" in that kind of glue is an acidic catalyst gel that will eat away at metal.
Don't say "infinitely" when you mean "very"; otherwise, you'll have no word left when you want to talk about something really infinite. - C. S. Lewis
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1300 Posts |
I think any coin "like my buffalo key" that coin regardless will be TKO'd if it was either removed or fell off there is pictures of duct tape coins or even fingerprint coins. It was my goal to use a run of the mill junk bucket coin for my personal "good luck charm" when I was on the job. To me the thing is cool one of a kinda and really neat to have.
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Forum Dad
 United States
24161 Posts |
JB Weld sealed a crack in the engine block of my 1969 Dart and lasted at least 110,000 miles. That's just when the car was sold to someone I didn't know.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
 Quote: I'd suggest avoiding those epoxy glues where you mix two part together; one of the "parts" in that kind of glue is an acidic catalyst gel that will eat away at metal. Not exactly true. The above photo is something I made using that two part system way, way back in about 1959. If it's going to eat away the metal of the coins, might not be for a few hundred years. So far they look the way they did when I put them there. Quote: JB Weld sealed a crack in the engine block of my 1969 Dart and lasted at least 110,000 miles. That's just when the car was sold to someone I didn't know. JB Weld is really a super stuff. I agree with you there. I used to make Lead Soldiers and one of the steel molds broke. I used JB Weld to repair it and it took the molten Lead OK for many years. Also, used it to repair door handles, tools, etc. Only problem is curing time is rather slow and the color is dark grey. If you care, in order to make it cure faster, also mix in 5 minute epoxy glue when mixing the JB Weld.
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Pillar of the Community
Canada
2805 Posts |
For Canadian cents... everything from 1964 and earlier shouldn't be glued on. The key is the monarch's portrait... either King George is obviously out, and Elizabeth's younger bust without a crown on should probably also be spared. The modern date to look for is 2006 with a composition mark "P" under Elizabeth's portrait... everything else takes too much time to find.
And don't put any foreign coins on there unless you are sure they're worthless!
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Valued Member
United States
101 Posts |
So Rupester.......would you consider that buffalo you have a.........key date?
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Quote: Not exactly true. The above photo is something I made using that two part system way, way back in about 1959. If it's going to eat away the metal of th.e coins, might not be for a few hundred years. So far they look the way they did when I put them there. That isn't a two part epoxy adhesive.
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Moderator
 United States
188660 Posts |
Quote: If you care, in order to make it cure faster, also mix in 5 minute epoxy glue when mixing the JB Weld. Just use JB-Kwik. Same stuff with much faster harden time, it just does not handle the same high temperatures that JB-Weld does.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Quote: Just use JB-Kwik. Same stuff with much faster harden time, it just does not handle the same high temperatures that JB-Weld does. Thanks Jbuck. Did not know that and never saw that in stores. Have to go looking. Quote: That isn't a two part epoxy adhesive. Yes it was back in the day I made that. It was sold in two large canasters at hardware stores. I used it to actually glue wood to concrete and made things like that pen holder. Also, made other items. Not sure but haven't seen it around lately. For the poster I'd still say use the liquid plastic sold at most hobby stores.
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Replies: 27 / Views: 6,051 |