Good Looking Coins Don't Have To Be Third Party Graded

Some of my nicest errors are not certified and I know they are real so I wont have them certified. That said I buy certified errors all time time as well.

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I had a nice big post to reply to everyone's comments and questions then I had a power surge. I spent about an hour on it so I will be re-typing it after I get back from my Sand Volleyball game and a stop by the coin shop.

Nelrak,

I'd be interested in buying the Roosevelt dime, if you would consider selling it!

Sorry I don't have time to respond as I had hoped today. I have to go to some stupid "Wine and Cheese" thing that my wife has commited my time to! I will respond tomorrow before Church.

But in response to what the coin shop had today. I put a 1883CC Morgan and a 1878 8 Feather Morgan on lay away. I went on and bought the coin below since it was about what I had on me after the Down payments on the two above. I know it's has one of the higher mintages for Morgans but I thought it was very clean and was really too nice to not get...you know how it is!



That is some dirt by the "A" in "America" not a clash mark.

Ciao for now!

Ken

Responses to comments/inquiries Take 2! I'm going to respond to in one post.

Metalman: How do I determine grade to dictate price.most of the shops I go to have a pre-determined grade and a "starting" price associated with them. I scan the case and look for the ones I may be interested in and review it. I have spent months studying the TPGs gradings on Heritage/Teletrade, compared sellers on ebay opinions on raw coins and compared them to TPGs, Photograde/ANA Grading Standards books, and qualities/grades set forth by my peers on the CoinCommunity Grading Forum. I make notes about what to look for to make a coin "complete". If I see a coin that is deemed a high grade than I think it is, I politely inquire "What makes this a MS6x and not a MS6x (my grade)". They will usually tell you why or will regrade it on the spot. If I still disagree I move on to the next one that catches my eye. Of course if it is undergraded, I don't make much of a fuss and usually keep a calm and friendly expression, rather than doing what I would want to do by beaming!

OK the grade has been determined.now the pricing. I carry my Greysheet and RedBook (for mintage numbers) with me along with my loupe. I get a ballpark of the Ask/Bid on the grade and always ask them what the want for the coin even if it is already marked. I then counter about 10 - 20% off the Greysheet ASK price if I kind of want it or the Bid if I really want it, if we aren't already there. Remember prices are just as subjective as grading, so Negotiate and see if you can get into the zone you can live with. Cash works best for a transaction too.. The 1881S Morgan I got today, I got for $20 less because I had cash. As long as both parties are happy with the transaction it's all good. Don't be afraid to walk from a purchase, in most cases there is always one out there that may be for sale that is better than the one you could have bought yesterday!

Prethen: Thanks Bruce. The quarter is about ready to get a bath, I don't plan on getting rid of it so it will always have a place in my 7070. The scratchiness appears to be where someone may have rubbed on it slightly years ago, but it's not distracting. I realize buying raw proofs are tricky and as we discussed previously, sometimes you have to take the chance when opportunity knocks. I figure with only 600 of the 1891 Quarters minted, the odds of many still existing in good condition are probably few and far between! I should have my 1870 Proof ½ Dime and my 1873 Proof Dime within a month and I am happy to say they are much nicer than the quarter!

Gonefishin: Thanks, glad you like the penny! About the prooflike on the dime. If you hold it under light it gives a shiny through the toning which I think looks prooflike but it's more the mint luster under the toning I think which does not come out via the pix. I gave it the PL designation but it is a solid BU.

PBcoins: I'll ask if he does.he has so many coins he doesn't know what he has! If he does I may have to leverage my layaway privileges even more!

SuperDave: Thanks! I bought the Morgan with you and others on CC in mind. I have been checking out what you have been posting lately and picking out details that you note on your posts. I am happy you approve of my selection!

USArmyParatrooper: Thanks! Congratz on your 09S VDB, you picked out a great one! Ya, the 27 is very clean which is what attracted me to it. I got a 29 on the same day and it is nice as well. I hear ya about the spots/grainy/uneven toning. I got a 31-S from the same guy and it has some toning but I don't think it looks too bad. Here it is:



Lonnie: I kind of thought I would have heard from you! I may be interested in working something out on it but for now my son, he's 9, likes it in his book. I'll keep you posted if we decide to upgrade it.

TSmith3510: buying slabbed is a good thing for the reasons you stated. I was just trying to encourage people to do some of the legwork themselves rather than focusing on the slab. I think if you hone your eye, you can find some real deals out there by buying raw and don't have take someone else's word for it!

I hope your coin comes out fine after that acetone bath.

After a two day soak in Acetone, a distilled water rinse, a distilled water soak, and a cool hair dryer drying...I am pleased to announce the GREEN CRUD is GONE!

You can kind of tell where it was due to the toning is missing or around where the green crud was, but it is crud free now that's all that matters. I will post pix tonight.