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Luster

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nohope587's Avatar
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 Posted 07/20/2014  3:43 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add nohope587 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers

So I have never been able to capture Luster on coins especially Nickels. I thought the more light I applied the shorter the exposure time... Turns out I was wrong. I could never do long exposures because the hard drive on my computer and fan caused some vibration even my breathing made the camera shake,
So solid state drive now installed and setting up on concrete

I think I have finally got luster
F32 30 second exposure no light dim room
what do you guys think is this the way to go or should I bring back the lights..




Luster
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 Posted 07/20/2014  11:54 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Sorry, not much luster in that photo.

It looks like your lights are at too low an angle, and are too diffused. Are you using CFL's or something?

Lighting is everything for picking up luster. Best setup is two "small" lights like Jansjos or Halogens, with following parameters:

Clock Positions: 10:30 and 1:30 (90-deg apart)
Angle to horizontal: 65 degrees (60-70)
Distance from coin: 4-8 inches depending on size of light (bigger = farther)

This should excite a pair of luster bars in an X shape across the coin.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
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Edited by rmpsrpms
07/20/2014 11:54 pm
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 Posted 07/21/2014  01:22 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Amount of light and exposure time are irrelevant. They simply trade off one another. Give it more light and less exposure to avoid vibration effects.

Also, you should be at no smaller aperture than f8 (ie use f5.6 or f8) for Nickels.
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kanga's Avatar
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 Posted 07/21/2014  07:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kanga to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The light should be as directly above the coin as possible without creating a hot spot.
And start with one light to the northwest; manually adjust you camera settings to the lighting.
Too much light will wash out fine details and that's what luster is.
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nohope587's Avatar
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 Posted 07/21/2014  11:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I guess it will always be a trade off I really don't like the
white patches where there is too much light But I also suspect I need the light to bring out the Luster.
Tried this with 2 LED lights at 10:30 and 1:30
ISO 100
F5.6 1/80sec

Luster

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CherreePicker's Avatar
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 Posted 07/21/2014  12:09 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CherreePicker to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I like these. They can be held in any configuration and to whatever distance you arm can extend.

https://goccf.com/t/176225

Not a fan of the jansjos although many like them.
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 Posted 07/21/2014  3:04 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Now just reduce your contrast, drop your exposure by 0.33 or 0.5 EV and you will be there...Ray
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nohope587's Avatar
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 Posted 07/21/2014  3:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The contrast I assume I will have to do in post processing?
the exposure I can do on the PC link..
Thank you for your help..
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nohope587's Avatar
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 Posted 07/21/2014  3:34 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Just the contrast played with and I can do that on the camera. Will have to go back and look at the EV settings to work out haw to change them remotely.

Luster
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mdpmedia's Avatar
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 Posted 07/21/2014  4:15 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mdpmedia to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Best setup is two "small" lights like Jansjos or Halogens, with following parameters: etc...


I strongly agree with these assertions primarily because having a light source(s) hit the substrate at a 90 degree, perpendicular angle creates unwanted reflectivity issues directed back squarely at the lens aperture where uniform and unobstructed lumens are required to create a true-to-life image such as luster...

In previous threads I have alluded to the fact that the angle of incidence(outgoing light beam from the Jansjos etc.) equals the angle of reflection(the resulting light beam that bounces/reflects away from the coin's surface):

Luster

In summary this situation creates the best possible scenario for illuminating a shiny coin's surface without having to deal with distracting glare which typically emanates from proof or MS-type silver or nickel coins.

mdpmedia



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mdpmedia's Avatar
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 Posted 07/21/2014  4:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add mdpmedia to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
On another note excessive diffusion can often completely obliterate the desired cartwheel effect on shiny coins; the presence of the cartwheel can be very beneficial for reselling proof coins on-line, for example.

mdpmedia

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 Posted 07/21/2014  6:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Your lights look like they're coming from wrong directions. 1030 would light Tom's face, and 130 would light his hair. In your shots his chin is lit so something is wrong.
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nohope587's Avatar
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 Posted 07/21/2014  7:00 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nohope587 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
oops the lights ere set at 10:30 and 1:30 to me not the coin which was inverted..
Fixed.. I think

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 Posted 07/22/2014  12:12 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Looks like good raw material. You might bring the lights up a bit farther to even them out a bit more, and nudge them around a bit to find the best clock positions for aesthetics, but the shot is good. Here is what it looks like after a bit of levels adjustment in post:

Luster
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
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