1968-D DDR1 Verify/Grade

Thanks for response. Actually I finally got a new Camera. A Samsung WB350 16MP 21X ZOOM & 1080i HD.

I am using it for first time. This is my first post with. And I am going through the figure all out to zero in an get familiar with it.

Here I am going about it in a few directions. Trying to cover as many angles and exposure possibilities. In hope to make sure the devices and its attributes are able to be seen.

In this process I figured it will help me to see what works the best.

There are straight up pics edited and in this update there are a few pics through a magnifier and edited a few different ways


In united showing the "E" and its devices
Wanted to see how it came across to you. I feel what needs to be seen is there. At least well enough. Improvement to come as I go along.

Also the S on states and America details I've pointed out.

I really this goes through. As I am certain I got this one. And. Can finally move forward with the many, many more I need to get on with.

That's the spirit Joey!

I take pictures two ways: using my iPhone with a 30X/60X jewelers magnifier or with my Nikon D3000 with Vivitar macrolenses attached to my 55mm lens. The key to a good picture when zooming in so close is keeping a very steady hand. Also, lighting-lighting-lighting. Too much: glare. To little: dark spots. Wrong angle(s): annoying shadows. There are lots of tricks you can learn from members here in the photography section (and in general comments made).

When taking shots with the iPhone and magnifier, close shots are difficult sometimes because of the lighting angle. You need to angle it so the light gets under the lenses, but not so flat an angle that you cast long shadows off the devices you are trying to take a picture of. You might take a handful of shots in succession in order to get one reasonably good picture to post here. I can spend an hour or more to get the picture I need to post here for CCF member help. But taking the picture is half the challenge of IDing a coin. So I do it with a smile...most of the time! Lighting from different sides of the coin can reduce shadowing but it can also add glare in spots you don't want. Mastery of lighting is my challenge of late. I also have an LED strip that I wrap in a circular fashion around a plastic storage container for radial lighting. I'm not overly happy with it yet, but again...it's the challenge.

Steady shots - I use an inexpensive tripod from Walmart ($14) to steady the camera. For the iPhone/magnifier, I set the shot up close to an edge of the table/desk so I can rest the phone/magnifier and my hand to take out some shaking. This is important on the kinds of close shots we are taking: any motion is multiplied several times over. Some times I will use an old card deck to stack the deck as high as I need to be to achieve a proper focal length for the shot. I might have to stack and restack a few time until I have a still and focused shot...again...it's the challenge.

Coop's tip on using a white plastic bag from the store to diffuse the light and make it softer is a good trick. It takes the direct light of a gooseneck desk light and softens it on the object coin. Be careful though as lights tend to be hot and thin plastic melts readily. Just be safe!!

Angle the subject coin to capture the 'right' light and eliminate potential for shadows. 90% of the time, I have the coin on a 45-60 degree angle with lighting directly above. I pull the coin on a stage (normally the mouse pad) towards the edge of the desk where I have the phone/magnifier pressed up against the desk to keep it and my hand steady.

So, hopefully a tip or two there to help you develop your mastery at taking macroshots of your specimens. We'll do our best to help you out!!

Sounds good Joey - good luck.