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Help Me Figure Out Old Copper Problems (Pic Heavy)...

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scottk's Avatar
United States
767 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  10:51 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add scottk to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Doing an ebay search for uncirculated braided hair large cents in the $125-$300 range, these are some of the coins I'm attracted to.

I like a few of them because of their odd colors. Especially like those in the first few pics.

Looking at these, do you see any of them as "problematic"? Is any of that pretty coloring artificial or the result of cleaning? Should chocolate brown with no apparent toning (blue, pink, green, whatever) be the color to look for?

I'm trying to build my first date set out of braided hair large cents of all different grades, and I'm thinking of buying a nice higher grade specimen soon.

Thanks.



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Bryan78's Avatar
United States
1068 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  10:55 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Bryan78 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I am by no means an expert but that first one looks very suspicious to me... It could very well be real, but it looks funny to me.
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TypeCoin971793's Avatar
United States
6370 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  11:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TypeCoin971793 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Here are my opinions:

1. Original AU
2. Cleaned AU
3. Original AU/UNC
4. Cleaned EF
5. AU with porosity in the fields
6. Original AU
7 nice UNC

If you were considering them all equally, I would go for the last one.
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CoinCollector2000's Avatar
United States
2563 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  11:29 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add CoinCollector2000 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Just some crazy toning going on on most, but TypeCoin pointed out the cleaned ones.
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scottk's Avatar
United States
767 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  11:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scottk to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
K. So that pink and green toning on 1 and 3 wouldn't be "quest color"? It's real toning?
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TypeCoin971793's Avatar
United States
6370 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  11:53 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TypeCoin971793 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
They both look ok to me.
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amida17's Avatar
United States
4897 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  12:01 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add amida17 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I like the 1856 best (#3) looks like lots of luster left!
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EFLargeCents's Avatar
United States
1304 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  12:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add EFLargeCents to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Number 3 is the one I like the best. I wouldn't buy any of the others personally. Number 7 looks ok except the discoloration/corrosion above Libertys head.
Edited by EFLargeCents
11/26/2014 12:38 pm
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MeadowviewCollector's Avatar
United States
4409 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  12:52 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add MeadowviewCollector to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'd recommend picking up the EAC copper grading book. It is packed with info and pictures that will pay for itself.

http://www.eacs.org/GradingGuide/GradingGuide.html

http://www.eacs.org/GradingGuide/Bo...0Invoice.pdf
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scottk's Avatar
United States
767 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  12:59 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scottk to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I actually like #1 because of the smoothness of the surfaces, especially on the cheek.

I probably won't pick up a higher grade coin like any of these for another month or so.

Just trying to learn about the intricacies of this type of coin before making that plunge.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  1:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
One problem you face is the need - especially with copper - to also factor in the photography. Copper is extremely difficult to show as the color would look in-hand. It's almost always overlit (appearing lighter brown than it should) or underlit (the opposite). So one really can't trust the hue or saturation of most digital imagery because the photographer simply can't get it right.

Of these, I suspect only the second 1853 is really close on color.
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bpoc1's Avatar
United States
4078 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  3:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add bpoc1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
thanks meadowviewcollector for posting those sites.
i am having an issue with my key board so please excuse proper punctuation.
great question scottk
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scottk's Avatar
United States
767 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  3:22 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scottk to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks bpoc.

Now I'm wondering about Ssuperdave's post.

Maybe the reason that coin #1 looks so smooth surfaced is it could be a scan instead of a direct photograph?

I've noticed that scans sometimes hide hairlines, bagmarks, and so on....
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bpoc1's Avatar
United States
4078 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  5:14 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add bpoc1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Scottk, I agree with you on scans and a direct photography.
SsuperDdave knows, IMHO, the right technology to produce a properly colored coin. But..
There is no list from, "Him" on cleaned or not cleaned coins.
Wait and lets see what VT has to say.
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SsuperDdave's Avatar
United States
23522 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  5:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SsuperDdave to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
They're all photographs, and the first is easily the best image. The color is too light, though. That one's darker in hand.
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scottk's Avatar
United States
767 Posts
 Posted 11/26/2014  6:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add scottk to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Aha!

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