Bellows

After about a year I am actually starting to learn how to use a bellows( I thought I knew already!). I did a search in this forum and was unsuccessful at finding any thread that covered how to use one. I have gone through three different bellows certainly not the cheapest way to learn how to use one. So I hope this proves a thread that will enable us to share the best ways to use a bellows:

MY first was a simple Minolta Bellows III. It didn't have a focusing rail but it did the job. I went for minolta simply because I had the requisite adapters already. Once I purchased a focusing rail it was brilliant. However the bellows is only made of paper and I suspect its life expectancy with regular use is not great( given its age before I got it).

I then progressed to a Novoflex Auto-bellows( I actually only wanted the lens that went with it: a Novoflex 105mm F4) This bellows had an integral focusing rail. This one was an improvement as the bellows was coated with plastic or rubber and certainly had a much more robust feel. The integral focusing rail was a huge improvement for set up and operation. However for both bellows, that I had at that stage, the issue was the limited extension. One was 120mm maximum the other was 150mm. Both proved too short at times.


Finally I got a Minolta III auto bellows( last 6 weeks). The difference is huge. 200mm maximum extension with tilt shift function( I only use shift as I am not sure how to use tilt effectively for coins).

It didn't have a focusing rail but as I have a stackshot (an electronic focusing rail)I didn't need one In converting to the auto bellows I noticed something weird( A Homer Simpson moment; if there ever was one!), My favourite bellows lens, a minolta 100mm F4 was performing poorly. I had no idea what was going on. It kept on taking photos as if it was wide open and not at the aperture I had set. The old hands will be laughing here as thats exactly what was going on. I fortunately discovered that these late model bellows acted like cameras they were designed for. Focusing is done with the lens wide open. The aperture is only supposed to close down when a picture is taken.
In detail: the bellows is designed for an analogue camera: you are supposed to attach a manual shutter release cable to the bellows to operate the aperture blades on the bellows lens...and you fit another connecting cable to the film camera so when you operate the remote shutter release both the aperture and the shutter are triggered.

With enlarger lenses I had already developed the habit of focusing with the lens wide open, then selecting the actual aperture I wanted, So discovering the need for a analogue shutter cable was welcome. It has simplified the focusing process. I focus then press the analogue shutter cable and lock it. Adjust the exposure and take the photo. There is a separate button on the bellows to allow direct control of the aperture blades, but manually pressing it just brings in more potential vibration. the remote cable prevents such vibration. I suppose what would really make it a prefect bellows would be having some way to attach a microswitch to the bellows so that I can activate the shutter at the same time as operating the aperture blades.

A final comment I prefer bellows over extension rings for the simple reason they are just much more adjustable. From what I have learnt if you are looking for a bellows slow down save you money and get the best you can. A tilt shift Auto bellows( by minolta Canon or nikon) is probably the best bet. While you saving for it( if you have to save up for it) stick with extension rings!

T