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Replies: 27 / Views: 3,477 |
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
The pullaway is one reason I'd consider this one "toned under natural processes" although a given TPG would likely wimp out. By the same standard which allows anything not toned in a Mint bag to get into a righteous slab, so should this one be. This thing would be a ball to shoot with an axial rig and a good camera setup. 
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Valued Member
 United States
143 Posts |
I was just reading up on axial lighting last night. Really interesting stuff. And didn't look terribly difficult, though I'd still have to pull the materials together. Some of the darker photos of it, which I didn't even post, were just stunning (well, to me at least ;-)
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Valued Member
167 Posts |
I think it would slab fine, I just do not think it is worth the cost of slabbing. If you want to sell it, stick it on ebay and call it "UNCIRCULATED GEM BU++++ RAINBOW TONING" or something ridiculous like that and you'll do fine. Note, that was a joke. Please do not title it that if you sell it on ebay. Something simple like "1880-S Morgan dollar, uncirculated and toned" will do fine.
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Valued Member
 United States
143 Posts |
Thanks all. I want to hang on to it. What general standard do you use for what you slab? Only things that are over X value, and only things that you want to sell some day? Or do you also have the sense that things are better preserved when slabbed, so perhaps you slab your favorite pieces? I've read a lot of what's on this site about slabbing, but still haven't gotten a good sense of what people slab and why they slab it, other than something like my 1909-s VDB, where you slab it because you won't be able to sell it unless you can prove it's genuine (I also won't be selling that one either).
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Valued Member
167 Posts |
I, personally, slab anything of questionable authenticity that I plan to resell that is worth $100 or more, or most regular coins worth $250 or more... Certain things I will not bother with, for example, a common-date, baggy Carson City GSA dollar is worth $175-$200 ungraded, and graded in MS62 or MS63, it's worth about the same. So why bother paying for grading in that case?
There is no hard and fast rule, every coin is unique and the decision to slab or not to slab has to be made based on that coins merits.
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Valued Member
 United States
143 Posts |
That's interesting about the Carson City. When you find coins that sell for more when slabbed/graded, is it usually then because the coin has been authenticated?
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Valued Member
167 Posts |
Either because the coin has been authenticated, or because it's condition is better than average, and I got away with paying an average price for the coin. In example, I bought a raw 1881-S Morgan off of ebay a while ago. I paid $130 or so. It was nice. I submitted it for grading, and it came back MS67. The only reason I basically paid MS65 money for it was that the seller took mediocre photos. Learning how to grade coins, both in-hand and via pictures, is an art of it's own. That is being rewarded for having a good eye and knowing that coin was going too cheap. As another example, I purchased a 3-legged Buffalo nickel. I knew the coin was real because I know the die markers for the variety, but the dealer had his questions about the coin. It was raw, and priced at about half of greysheet for the grade since the dealer wasn't sure if it was real, and wasn't offering returns on it. I bought it, submitted it, and sent it to auction and did well, as my bidders were confident in the authenticity of the coin.
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Quote: When you find coins that sell for more when slabbed/graded, is it usually then because the coin has been authenticated? Absolutely, because astute buyers know the risk they're taking with a raw coin and won't bet the farm on it. There are exceptions of course, in the case of bidding wars and such.
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Valued Member
 United States
143 Posts |
I stopped collecting after high school, though at the time I was quite into it. Was there less thievery back then? I don't mean in terms of people asking ridiculous prices. I mean, in terms of actual faked coins? Like my 1909-s VDB -- was there just as high a risk of getting a fake one back then as now? I certainly trusted the guy I got mine from, and it wasn't authenticated otherwise (and fortunately folks here seem to think it looks real).
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Valued Member
167 Posts |
Counterfeits have been around for ages, but they are more common today, yes. The internet and ebay have really shown how common the counterfeits are, plus China has been pumping them out en masse for several years now... so yes, the odds of any random coin being a counterfeit are greater now than they've ever been, but the availability of the information to educate and protect yourself is also easier to find and share than it has ever been. It is a double-edged sword.
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Valued Member
 United States
143 Posts |
It's too bad, because I remember how much harder it was to find coins in the 70s. And it's rather amazing being able to go online and find anything. I've collected other things, from orchids to antiquities, and it's neat being able to go online and find rarer varieties of the things you love. But that's just insane that things have gotten so bad that China is counterfeiting American coins!
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Moderator
 United States
23522 Posts |
Couldn't have said it better than MorganGrader.
Not to take away from the previous prevalence of fakes. They've been there all along, and you were more likely to be victimized in the past, I think, because it was more difficult for the average collector to acquire the expertise. Except the hard way.
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Replies: 27 / Views: 3,477 |