Canon T1i

There is a setting on the program to tell it what format(s) to save as - CR2 (raw) and/or JPG.

Most editing software only deals with JPG. If you don't need the extra detail and control of the raw file, just set it to JPG only.

There are Windows extensions and programs other than Paint that can read/write CR2 as well as conversion programs.

I use the CR2 in Helicon Focus which writes out a JPG from the stacked shots.

here is a couple more shots with the canon and my lens. all I did was shrink the images until they fit here. I am still waiting for a focus rail that should improve my focus on my coins. the one shot is a nickle dime the webbing on the schooner. the other is a stamp for the Denver mint on the old penny

no problem dar I am using a nikkor 75mm I crank the bellows all the way out. I find thou the tripod and the bellows. have to much movement for myself to get good focus. I have perfect focus one minute and the next it changes so I am waiting for a focus rail. dar dave and ray can tell you how to do this with your lens.it takes a lot of distance to get focus on the tripod. I am at my maxs that I can raise the camera due to my set up. later when I have every thing I will take some pictures to so my setup. I am going to copy off you guys hope you dont mind have a great day

Your doing good rocky, what software are you using?

Seriously, an option like mcshilling's stand where the stage is moved up and down is a better option for higher magnification than a focus rail on your tripod. There are also some very nice vertical stages being made by Chinese manufacturers right now, for decent prices. Here is an example:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-Z-axis-...em27f20998a6

I own one of these for testing and can say it is precise and repeatable. Each rotation of the micrometer is 1mm, so you have 20um vertical resolution. This is sufficient for stacking at 5x magnification. It can be added to any system out there for precise vertical adjustment.

rocky...you seem to be doing just fine! I do the same thing you do, just set to Av mode and let the camera decide shutter speed. I do set my ISO at 100 but 200 or 400 won't make a lot of difference in the output. From what you've said earlier, it seems you're just getting too much vibration and movement when trying for the super closeups, so you need to have a more solid mount. You'll see a wide variety of stands here that folks have built or purchased. mcshilling's stand has 3 focus modes so is very flexible. Dar's has three modes as well, but they are all different than mcshilling's stand(!). Best is to try using what you have, and build around it to get the functionality you want. I think you have a T1i with bellows and 75mm Nikon lens, correct? What bellows are you using? I can make some suggestions on the best way to go with your existing hardware, just confirm what you have and what you want to do...Ray

mcshilling Your doing good rocky, what software are you using? I was wondering when you talk about software. to do what I use the canon program to take the pics but if you are talking about editing all I do is shrink the image until it fits here. I am going to talk with you and dar. about what you guys are using to edit your photos and how you guy size them. I am still on the learning on that stuff have a great one

thank you ray very much. I went on ebay and found only one to choose from. I brought it so I will try the 105 when it comes. I am finally understanding what you have been telling dar and mchilling about the f stops on the el nikkor lens. I took a couple of pics of a mint nickel. with the lens stopped down. I know now I need to get myself a sheet of that paper that you told the other members about. the muslim cloth is not enough diffuser so all I did was shrink the images of the nickel. the el nikkor is defently a great lens. the Minolta bellows is a lot more stable then the cheap bellows from china lesson learned have a great one