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Printing Nikkor 105mm And Fotodiox Rhinocam

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 Posted 07/21/2015  02:28 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
In this thread I referred to the use of medium format lenses:
https://goccf.com/t/234271
However my aim when buying the rhinocam had nothing to do with medium format lenses. My wording may be poor but it gives an accurate picture of my thinking: Nearly all lenses available to us for coins are compromised lenses. Those compromises allow us to use those lenses in a variety of situations. However when we become more focused we start to use less and less compromised lenses such as enlarger lenses. There are some lenses that are uncompromising. One group of such lenses are the printing nikkors. I have one example; the 105mm. This lens is designed to perform best at 1-1 magnification at F 2.8. Of course I collect Morgan dollar sized coins... so I immediately have a problem at 1-1 magnification the coins are too large for my camera sensor. my whole aim in getting the Rhinocam was to enable me to use the 105mm Printing Nikkor as it was designed. This thread shares my first non-play attempt with the 105mm on the rhinocam. first the adaptors I used. I have switched from a minolta SR tilt shift bellows to a Mamiya 645 bellows. I fit lenses to the bellows via the following adapters ( all the lenses I use have a Minolta SR adapter) Mamiya 67mm reversing ring, M 45 (female) to M67 ( female) adapter Front mount from a Minolta SR extension ring set( has a M45 male thread). The camera is fitted to the Rhino cam via an e mount extension ring set ( this allows the camera to be mounted in portrait orientation)

Fr this first serious attempt I had the camera set to full frame capture mode. this was a mistake, I have found that it is better to use APSc capture mode( prevents unnecessary over sampling). I picked one of the better, collector wise, coins in my collection based on the fact it is a diabolical coin to image. The toning on the coin makes accurate to life color rendition very difficult(as expected it wasn't much of a challenge for the Nikkor)

The picture is large( 57.9 mb) So I may be deleting it from photobucket in a few weeks. {Sorry I didn't rotate the image to ensure it was vertical}

Note I am not fully satisfied with this shot it shows the potential of the set up but I need to take more care setting up the shots ( I missed the start and finish points for some of the image stacks used to make this image)

Printing-Nikkor-105mm--And-Fotodiox-Rhinocam

here is a 100% crop for those who don't want to strain their broadband connection

Printing-Nikkor-105mm--And-Fotodiox-Rhinocam
Edited by austrokiwi
07/21/2015 02:34 am
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 Posted 07/22/2015  01:22 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Fantastic! Aren't the 105PN's great? sharpness and color gradations are superb on this image. This technique is turning out some nice images.

But here comes the pet peeve again...if you shoot this coin again, please rotate it about 1-degree CCW...
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 Posted 07/22/2015  03:21 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I should have fixed that composition in post editing I only picked it up after I had up loaded it to Photobucket. It is annoying I fixed it in the original( But I am not uploading it again)

One comment as I have pushed the envelop I have become more and more demanding of my rig. Small issues I ignored in the past have become major problems with this technique. My rig as it stands to day is only just capable of these shots.

As I mentioned last week the base board was swapped out for a Granite slab weighing around 64 Lbs. It sits on Sorbothane feet. I went a step further and the table with bench style legs (with a stretcher) is now sitting on two concrete pedestals( 400mm X 400 mm X30mm pavers each weighing 15 kg). I spent 2 hours leveling the table and rig. Standard shots are now much better but I still have frustrations. Chinese machining is no longer worth it... I avoid Chinese adapters etc as much as possible resorting where ever possible to American Russian, German/Austrian made gear for crucial components. Now there is nothing sweeter than a clamp or adapter that performs exactly as it should! At the same time an adapter that is just out on its tolerances is hugely frustrating!
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 Posted 07/22/2015  11:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
For others reading this...most or all of the extra weight, dampening, and trouble to eliminate vibrations is not needed if you use a camera with EFSC/EFCS. I get vibration-free shots even at 10x magnification using a small stand that weighs about the same as the camera! What the extra vibration control does give you is immunity from external vibrations (sub-floor vibrations, etc) that can show up with long exposures. But you can tell if that control is needed by watching the Live View screen and seeing if there is any noticeable vibration.
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 Posted 07/22/2015  11:50 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
For others reading this...most or all of the extra weight, dampening, and trouble to eliminate vibrations is not needed if you use a camera with EFSC/EFCS.


That comment certainly doesn't apply to my rig the heavy weight and sobothane feet only control external vibration. My rig sits on the second floor even though that floor is seismic block it can be a real pain when a car drives down the street. The extra weight with sorbothane isolates external vibrations. It does nothing for internal vibrations such as shutter and mirror shock( Doesn't apply to either of my cameras one is mirrorless the other has a fixed beam splitter instead of a movable mirror). My camera has certain shutter speeds I have to avoid ( like 1/125 second). My replacement camera budgeted for in September will have both optional EFCS ( half electric) and more importantly a fully Electronic shutter option

The comment was so far from my aims with the granite slab I had to go back to the "text book" and check
I based my rigs design on Savazzi (2011) "Digital Photography for Science" and Lefkowitz (1982) " The Manual of Close up Photography" Lefkowitz on page 158 describes creating a rig for reducing external vibrations using a 45 KG slab of rock sitting on inflated inner tubes on page 158. Savazzi , From memory ( I will re edit this post when I find the actual page numbers) states the same thing.

Edit: Savazzi recommends the granite and Sorbothane feet on pages 650 - 653 under the sub heading "Controlling floor vibration". He goes so far as the refer to Lefkoowitz's recommendation. I got the idea for the sorbothane feet from Savazzi's book: the section just referenced. When I read the recommendation I figuratively kicked my self as I knew how good Sorbothane fee were for hi fi systems!

Edited by austrokiwi
07/22/2015 12:07 pm
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 Posted 07/22/2015  12:08 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
AK...did you read my whole post, or just the first sentence? It was only 4 sentences long and if you read the 3rd sentence you could have avoided writing your post...Ray
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 Posted 07/23/2015  12:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I did read and I read it again and again! It still makes little sense to me. Yes you stated the weight protects from external vibration but how does EFCS protect from environmental vibration? That, to me is the logical conclusion from your first sentence that I had put in quotes. The sentence seems completely out of context and very misleading!

My experience with my sony A65 ( has EFCS) has shown me no evidence of protection from external vibration). My understanding of how EFCS suggest that EFCS has no use at all in dealing with external vibration

So please explain how EFCS compensates for external vibration. The only way it might help is if you used high shutter speeds. I can achieve acceptable hand held coin shots by racking up the ISO and shutter speed but the A7r produce's a lot less noise at high ISO in comparison to many other cameras( as long as I don't go over 8000).

It seems to me if the camera or subject move during a shot( environmental vibration) efcs is not going to stop blurring from occurring. I would add my understanding is EFCS is only good for reducing shutter shock( It doesn't eliminate it), you need a fully electronic shutter to completely remove shutter shock from the equation.

One thing to make clear the Granite slab cost about US$12.00 the Sorbothane feet just under US$25.00 with postage and the only other cost was four drill bits @ US$6.00. All up turning my rig in something akin( not like) to an optical table cost US$61.00



Edited by austrokiwi
07/23/2015 09:37 am
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 Posted 07/23/2015  7:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I never said EFSC protected from external vibration. Most vibration problems I have faced are shutter/mirror-related. But I don't live on an upper floor or subfloor. If you do, then mass loading can certainly help.
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 Posted 07/24/2015  12:30 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I have to repeat what you said. I just seems so contrary to every thing I have researched and read over several months:


Quote:
For others reading this...most or all of the extra weight, dampening, and trouble to eliminate vibrations is not needed if you use a camera with EFSC/EFCS



With your most recent comment it is clear that you believe that the extra weight I added actually controls for shutter shock and by, I believe reasonable, inference; mirror shock. I just can not understand how a granite slab and sorbothane feet can have any effect on mechanical factors that are internal to the camera.

If you are correct then its great news as it is much cheaper to use a camera without EFCS and just rely on the granite slab and Sorbothane feet.


please clarify as at the moment that quote reads to me very much like the running windex joke in the movie "My Big Fat Greek Wedding"



Edited by austrokiwi
07/24/2015 12:37 am
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 Posted 07/24/2015  10:02 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
First priority is a rigid setup immune to vibrations. The camera and coin should be mechanically-linked so if one moves the other does as well. This eliminates most of the effects of external vibrations. If you need lots of extra mass to dampen external vibrations it is better to work on making your setup more rigid first. EFSC won't do much to help external vibrations, just internal ones, which can also couple to the external setup if it is not rigid enough.

Many folks attempt to solve the mirror slap and shutter shake problem using stiffening and mass loading. It does indeed help to some extent, and it is possible to get decent results, but not excellent. This technique reduces the effect of internal sources coupling to the external setup, but does nothing to reduce the sources themselves, so only takes you so far.
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Edited by rmpsrpms
07/24/2015 10:21 am
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 Posted 07/25/2015  02:18 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I take that reply as a tacit acknowledgement that the statement I took issue with was wrong. EFCS is useful but it is not a cure all. And it does not do anything to fix external vibrations likewise making a heavy vibration dampened rig does not control for vibrations created within the camera

I would also like to clarify there are two types of vibration sources. Internal to the camera ( mirror shock in the old fashioned DSLR technology) and shutter shock/shake. Mirror lock up in DSLR limits mirror vibrations. An Electronic Front Curtain shutter reduces shutter shock( but doesn't eliminate it). As RMPSRMPS has pointed out in a forum separate to this one even the electrical system relating to the shutter operation can cause vibration( I completely accept that as occurring it was intriguing reading)

There are cameras coming to the market now that have fully electronic shutters, they should make EFCS appear as an interesting old fashioned approach.

Now RMPSRMPS may have left the impression that only if your macro rig is on a second floor of a building do you need to worry about external vibration. The experts I read (https://goccf.com/t/235824) noted that external vibrations can even be a problem in a basement of the building. A furnace, air conditioning, dish washer and clothes washing machine are all sources of annoying vibration.

For those on a limited budget A granite/concrete slab and sobothane feet (or partially inflated small diameter inner tubes) is a very cheap way of creating a vibration dampened macro rig. However it won't be perfect as there will be a frequency that will cause resonance in the rig. Apparently you can tune the rig to avoid the most damaging vibrations. I have not got to the point of understanding how to do that yet.

I had thought my rig stable until I first tried adding a 15 kg weight( cost US$3.00) to my rig with the sorbothane feet... the improvement really impressed me. The 29kg granite slab( cost less than US$15.00) has also shown an improvement over the 15kg weight but not as marked. What is a real bonus is the 4 foot square working area I now have.

Its important to understand that the references note that what will appear to be vibration free at close up magnifications( 1-1 or less) may well be found to be unacceptable at macro magnifications 1X< 10X( I may be wrong with the cut off between macro and Micro). Likewise What may be acceptable at 10X may be useless at 20X.
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 Posted 07/27/2015  12:15 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
No, the statement was not wrong, just misinterpreted. You are correct that EFSC is not a cure-all. I was talking mostly about internal vibrations. As I stated in the original reply, the extra mass is good for reducing external vibrations. I suppose I should have said explicitly that EFSC can't cure external vibrations, but I thought it was obvious from my post.

EFSC does indeed eliminate ALL shutter shock, by definition of its operation. How could it not? How it is implemented can cause other problems to show up as was discussed in the referenced thread.

I still feel that making the system more rigidly-coupled is a better solution than adding so much extra mass and dampening. I've never had an issue with vibration like you seem to be having, even up to 10x magnification, though I have not tested my system extensively at 20x, or at all above 20x. Maybe some day I will find I need more dampening and loading for these high mags if I ever find a need to go there, but it certainly isn't needed for coins.
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 Posted 07/28/2015  05:26 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add austrokiwi to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Well I don't think it was misinterpreted as it was an inappropriate statement that is best understood as hyperbole. The only reason one would add extra mass in the way I described is to control external vibration. To then make your first sentence in reply that EFCS ( which controls for shutter shock a form of internal vibration) renders such modifications unnecessary is akin to saying improving the suspension of a car makes it go faster. Yes it can but there are so many other factors to consider before (and in conjunction with) adjusting the suspension. I would never trust any mechanic who said "if you make this modification to the suspension then you don't need to do anything else to increase the cars top speed. I view your comment regarding EFCS in that light!

Using the term "unnecessary" is down right wrong in this context. It is wrong because there are many other factors to take into account. EFCS can assist, but that assistance is dependent on many factors which can include:

1 How stable the rig is.
2. How rigid the connection between the camera and the baseboard is:
a 3/8th and 1/4 inch mounting screws are less than ideal. Swiss arca clamps can often prove to be much more reliable.
3. how the different parts of the rig connect together. I have found it necessary to remove all rubber pads from mounting points as they have proved to be too flexible( this is following the recommendations of others in written references)
4. How effective the EFCS in your camera actually is...there have been reports of some DSLRs having EFCS that introduced vibration due to bad design
Edited by austrokiwi
07/28/2015 08:11 am
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