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 Replies: 29 / Views: 4,775 |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3463 Posts |
 Here is a photo of one of the 1936 cents I have. You can see the thin leg on the R. I hope this helps. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
I was mentioning that there were several dies with broken leg on the "R" out there. The 1936P-1DO-002 has this issue:  But other devices are showing the doubling.   http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/...ie_state=mdsDie 003 shows a similar event on that die: http://www.coppercoins.com/lincoln/...ie_state=ldsBut other normal dies show the same/deteriorating broken hub:  So to conclude that because the broken "R" is on a coin doesn't mean that it is a doubled die. In your images you posted so far, I'm not seeing any hub doubling. So please show us a closer view of the 1936 that you have. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3463 Posts |
1936 DDO-001 also shows a similar thin leg on the R.
The original poster's coin has NO leg at all. I don't know why I am even pointing this out. There is no hub doubling on either of the coins posted.
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New Member
 United States
44 Posts |
Yes, I understand and sorry Coop " I commented" I should of made it clear earlier I didn't mean to say were you supporting my claims I WANT EVERYONE TO UNDERSTAND THIS but referring to the techniques he employs with evaluation, presentation, before confirmation in cases such as this. Very admirable I have to say forgive me seems like I'm going have to disagree with you Coop, indispute to what I have said before on account of the late findings solid data that will prove the matter concerning DDO's in my favor. Thank you, guys really for being so patient with my stubbornness. Note, Truth be told in this "hobby" more than usual 80% of time I'm not convinced of any device of mine being genuine. I always give the benefit of doubt in case of crushing dissapointment... So, you see even with the following "post" I'm not 100% convinced...  Edited by Medalmind
11/26/2015 5:04 pm
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New Member
United States
44 Posts |
I apologize you guys I'll post some close up's on 1936 here in a bit... every one is making good points...
Edited by Medalmind
11/26/2015 5:19 pm
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
5828 Posts |
 Cant wait! |
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New Member
United States
44 Posts |
Okay, before moving on to 1936 DDO OR NOT let's see we can come to terms in agreement to 1917 DDO with this post.. See "picture's below" keep in mind first on top 1917 is a photo from courtesy of lincolnresource...  Edited by Medalmind
11/26/2015 5:34 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5828 Posts |
Hard to tell but I dont think its a DDO... |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
62064 Posts |
Edited by coop
11/26/2015 10:59 pm
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New Member
United States
44 Posts |
I may not have 8 or 10 years in numistic like some you do but I think 2 years in study equiped with all the basic necessities enough to do full evaluation on any variety type "error" device I believe I can decipher the difference between business strike and DDO.. If this isn't enough no problem there is more data I can bring forth but I question myself and I see no point to this. So, if everyone don't mind I'll conclude with a few questions, following will be some photo's ... Coop, you post an image from Wexler doubleddie.com I assume it's for comparison? If I'm correct comparing to which photo, to mine? We'll I've also made a comparison my "image" to Lincolnresources. So you are thwarting not only my source but also lincolresoucres? May be you guys are not seeing what I'm see so I used markers for pointers. If this isn't enough I have data "images" from prominent websites I can bring forth to support this and conclude it's doubled die.. See, "photo's below"  |
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New Member
United States
44 Posts |
Edited by Medalmind
11/27/2015 05:12 am
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5828 Posts |
Quote:
You telling me and others I don't own not "EVEN ONE" DD after 2 years in collecting? Hey, after 1 1/2 years it is EXTREMELY lucky that I have one! Really the only reason I have it is because I got out of school to go to the launch ceremony of the Homestead Quarter. Long story, but anyways... Just be patient, you'll find one some day! I'll find one someday! Just go out and buy a roll of P homestead quarters if you want a DD do bad. |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
3463 Posts |
You have some nice looking coins. Without seeing close ups of them all, we have no way of knowing if any of them are doubled dies or not.
This site is one of the best places on the internet to learn about coins and collecting. If you are willing to learn. To learn, you will need to respect what people tell you, even if it's not what you want to hear. I can tell you are very interested in the hobby and I would like to help you learn.
I am going to attempt to explain what a doubled die is and how they are created.
First, the mint starts with a "master hub" which has a the coins design carved in relief (raised). This master hub is used to make master dies, usually two or more, which have the design incuse (pressed into the surface). These master dies are then used to create several working hubs, which have a raised design on them. The working hubs are used to press the coin's image into the working dies that will be used to mint the coins. The working dies have the image incuse which creates a raised image on the finished coin. Each year the mint uses several different dies to mint the tens of millions of coins produced. There are two dies, one for the obverse or heads side of the coin, and one for the reverse or tails side. The anvil die and the hammer die make up both dies.
If a misalignment of the working hub and the working die occurs during the making of the die, the image will be stamped into the die more than once. So every coin that is minted using that die will have the double image stamped into it. The mint uses thousands of dies every year, so if only one die is doubled, the coins produced by that die are very rare in comparison to the total number of cents produced by that mint. A single die can strike close to 1,000,000 coins before being replaced.
When the master hub is used to make the master dies, it is pressed onto the master die surface with tremendous pressure. This process must usually be done more than once while the master dies are annealed in between presses. If the master hub and the master die become misaligned during this process it will create a doubled image on the master die. If the master die has a doubled image on it, every working hub made from that master die will also have the doubled image, then all of the working dies made using the doubled working hubs will also exhibit the same doubled image. Since several dies will have the exact same doubling and tens of millions of coins will be struck with these dies, they won't have any premium value over a common coin, as most coins minted that year will be the same.
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New Member
United States
44 Posts |
Cwb,thank you and you're correct this is one the best site to learn from for anyone seeking knowledge in the "hobby" a lot can be learned here. You're right in a lot of what you said is true.. I appreciated it was very generous of you to have taken the time in explaining how mint processing works. Thanks, Cwb for the reminder I'm familiar and no stranger to how the minting proccess work as well this was included in my study when I began my quest in the "hobby" around midterm I too learned how mint processing work. Nevertheless, intentionally or not your "persistence" I will admit about pushed me to the limit. I've learned more than I ever did in a course of 2weeks that would of taken a month in the past thank you so much for the motivation. As usual Cwb your input is always appreciated and valued. Admirable, having the patience before my stubbornness it's limit and taken no offense requires some wisdom.. Thanks again.
Edited by Medalmind
11/27/2015 1:51 pm
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Replies: 29 / Views: 4,775 |
First Page
Posted 11/26/2015 2:22 pm
