| Author |
 Replies: 18 / Views: 2,888 |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
558 Posts |
All key dates? All semi key dates? All Varities & DD's? Only some? Anymore besides the ones mentioned above?
|
|
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
20753 Posts |
Only the 09S VDB and possibly the 55 Doubled Die. And the so called 22 Plain.
Edited by just carl
06/22/2016 10:46 am
|
|
Valued Member
United States
354 Posts |
|
|
Valued Member
United States
354 Posts |
And !909 S? These two are also key dates...
|
|
Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
1931-S and any high grade ones for the year/MM John1  |
|
Moderator
United States
187702 Posts |
I bought the 1909-S and 1931-S raw. They are inexpensive and there are plenty out there. I do not see any reason to waste money having them graded.
The 1914-D is a close call. I have no problem buying one raw and have seen many. However, I think the 1909-S VDB and 1922 "plain" could certainly benefit from being in a slab.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
5828 Posts |
 The 1909 S VDB should be bought slabed unless you REALLY know what you are doing! As long as you can tell the dies apart, you should be able to buy a 1922 plain w/o a slab but its still a good idea to buy a graded coin. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
5825 Posts |
Any that are worth $200 or more.
That means you have to grade them and evaluate any perceived problems.
What you're trying to do is keep the cost per coin to 10% or less (don't forget S&H).
|
|
Rest in Peace
United States
18456 Posts |
with kanga . ''Sample'' If you have say a 1925-S in MS-67 or 68 Blazing Red . you would want that monster slabbed & graded .  Edited by T-BOP
06/22/2016 2:57 pm
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
94367 Posts |
Yes, kanga says it best - as a general rule, given the cost of grading, it's hardly worth submitting unless the value is north of $200 or so.
|
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
757 Posts |
Any pre 1930 that is red is definitely worth getting into a slab.
|
|
Moderator
United States
187702 Posts |
Quote:
Yes, kanga says it best - as a general rule, given the cost of grading, it's hardly worth submitting unless the value is north of $200 or so. Given what I wrote above, I would have to agree that $200 seems to be the magic number. |
|
Pillar of the Community
 United States
558 Posts |
Okie dokie.
Thanks everyone!
|
|
Bedrock of the Community
United States
19931 Posts |
Quote:
Given what I wrote above, I would have to agree that $200 seems to be the magic number. |
|
Pillar of the Community
United States
1119 Posts |
I am going to break trend here and say that none are worth getting slabbed. If it were my coin and I am going to be keeping it why get it slabbed? I like my coins in albums, 2x2s, tubes or heck, some I keep loose on top of the desk. Slab the coin when you are trying to sell it; unless you like to have slabbed coins in which case you might just want to slab the entire set. There are some mentioned above that I wouldn't recommend buying raw unless you can grade and know what to look for as far as counterfeits or altered MMs and whatnot. Those I would be cracking for the album though
|
|
Moderator
United States
187702 Posts |
I agree with you there. None of my coins are slabbed. If I were to buy a slabbed coin, it would be cracked and placed in my Dansco. Keep in mind I collect lower and middle grade circulated coins. If I were ever to acquire a high grade (MS+) slabbed coin I would probably not crack it. However, I would not intentionally purchase anything like that.  |
| |
Replies: 18 / Views: 2,888 |
Posted 06/22/2016 10:48 am
