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Replies: 31 / Views: 9,672 |
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6130 Posts |
I am beginning towards thinking this one is genuine, but I may still return it just to see if I can find one closer to $300 that still has good eye appeal. One is up on ma-shops right now... are they trustworthy for raw coins?
At any rate, I checked against my 50 sen from 1871, and it has the same "sharp" feeling to the rim. The reeding is a bit more regular, but I am leaning toward the yen being genuine. Still, could probably find better uses for that $100 difference between VF and XF/AU.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6130 Posts |
Thought on it for a while, and ultimately decided to send it back for a refund. I had to bring out the rest of the series for a family portrait first, though:  It was nice owning one of these for a short while, but I will have to let that be a hole in my album for a bit longer. Maybe someday I will revisit the 1870 yen and find one that is right for me. Thanks to all for your input and help!
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Pillar of the Community
Australia
3831 Posts |
It's nice to see them in a set. Also noticed that you have a reasonable condition 1870 5 sen. That is one coin that I haven't got around to upgrade mine - mine has a hole. It is a key date coin and I found it harder to find compared to a 1870 yen.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6130 Posts |
I'll post that one in more detail in another day in another thread, but yes it took a lot of hunting for the better part of 6 months to track that one down. Most of them have striking issues to the point that the dragon is nothing but a blurry blob with claws.
Since returning the yen coin, it's actually my most expensive coin in my Japanese type set and my second most expensive overall.
I think I paid $150 for that, the dark shallow scales 20 sen, and the left 10 sen in that picture.
I also have an 1871 small dragon 50 sen in the mail, but it's been tied up in customs for over a week.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
Since you collect these coins and I do not, what do you think is a fair price for my NGC MS 62? No one seems to want it at anything near market value based on Heritage Auctions.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6130 Posts |
Can you post a photo? I don't do auction sites like Heritage, because I generally do not buy coins that are worth much more than $30, let alone more than $400. A trend I notice with ebay is that serious world rarities get lowballed, and the seller will very often get taken to the cleaners if they do not have a reserve set. Buyers seem to care about blast white, flashy surfaces much more than the technical grade for these coins. A quick ebay search showed a couple selling for about $550 at auction in MS 61 or similar. Recently someone sold a certified AU 58 for just $284. I thought about bidding on that one, but it ended when I was reading my daughter a bedtime story and some things are more important than coins! The catalog values, I suspect, are averaged from Japanese sales, where there is much more demand for such coins, just like Morgans in the US.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1156 Posts |
swamperbob said: Quote: Since you collect these coins and I do not, what do you think is a fair price for my NGC MS 62? No one seems to want it at anything near market value based on Heritage Auctions.
Is this the same 1870 Japan Yen (Type I) that you were trying to sell at the FUN show? I thought you mentioned it was a MS 63 that looked like MS 64.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
5362 Posts |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1156 Posts |
Edited by jgenn 08/24/2016 5:33 pm
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1156 Posts |
Not very good news, swamperbob. The price trend seems to be on a downward slope for 1870 Yen. The PCGS MS63 at Long Beach was about 15% less that what I paid for mine two years ago.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
6130 Posts |
Forgot to update this thread, actually.
The return went smoothly and I got every penny back. The seller put it back up for auction, and it sold for about $150 less than what I paid. I think I dodged a bullet here.
In the meantime, I am patiently awaiting a time when I can justify the cost to wrap up my type set. It is all looking very nice in its album for the time being, however.
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New Member
Japan
34 Posts |
The actual obverse and reverse of that coin looks right to me. The details of the dragon spines(3) near the flame, the second flame on the 8th spine looks right. The "3" character(at 2 o'clock has the right fineness, and the character (at 8 o'clock) has the long right foot. So if it's fake, it could be a very good casting, to get these details right.
The variable rim width is not uncommon on the 1870.
Measuring the weight and diameter would help.
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New Member
Australia
6 Posts |
An old post, but some excellent advice and valuable observations by "swamperbob."
I'm curious about one thing concerning this coin. Every coin replica I've created (strictly for my own pleasure) using lost wax and standard dental casting techniques and the original metals (silver and gold) has always produced a lighter rather then heavier replica due to contraction of the investment.
Finn235's photos (excellent images, I might add) do show some minor surface irregularities that might be consistent with a casting, but I haven't the experience or expertise to back up my opinion.
What was the final outcome with this specimen?
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New Member
Australia
6 Posts |
Whooops, I failed to go to the "next page"... I see my question about the "final outcome" has been answered!
Edited by Buffomarinus 05/16/2017 08:21 am
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Pillar of the Community
Austria
566 Posts |
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Replies: 31 / Views: 9,672 |