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 Replies: 15 / Views: 3,619 |
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New Member
United States
37 Posts |
Just curious, how do people get coins graded that will likely only be worth seven or eight bucks? My local coin dealer said it would cost in the area of $40 - $50 each, through them. The guy told me it likely wouldn't cost much less on my own (NGC or PCGS). Surely people aren't paying this much for getting a grade on modern business class coins and stuff like that, are they?
~MΩNSTER~
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New Member
 United States
37 Posts |
Example; Let's say somebody finds the most perfect 2017 penny. Mirror finish, zero spots or scratches visible to the naked eye. 50 bucks to get it graded? Seriously?
~MΩNSTER~
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Valued Member
United States
135 Posts |
Some people do get coins graded at a lost. Holders are a good way to preserve coins in the long run so its a great storge for them while slightly adding to the price.
But the main reason is for the hopes of the coin being extremely high in grading. An MS68 coin made recently is actually worth quite a lot. Check the population reports and you'll see there isn't exactly that many out there.
Example:
2016 D cent
PCGS claims to only have 7 of them ever graded in MS68
The price guide claims an MS68 2016 D cent is worth 875$.
That's probably why you're seeing common coins being graded. It grants a lot of profit, but that's only if the condition is right.
The only way I could see anyone getting coins graded at cheap is if they have a PCGS membership and are sending in coins in bulk. There really isn't a cheaper way than that.
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New Member
United States
48 Posts |
Bulk grading can bring down the costs.
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New Member
United States
37 Posts |
Wish I had the money for a bulk shipment like that. I have quite a few I'd like to send off.
~MΩNSTER~
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Rest in Peace
10197 Posts |
But then say you do grade out at 68 or above on your bulk shipment, POP goes the weasel...prices will reflect that higher pop meaning lower value per grade. Now, take ANY figure of POP value as arbitrary, you most likely will not see that realized now and certainly not the future.
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Moderator
 United States
56855 Posts |
SawtoothJack, Post pics here first to see if the cost is justifiable. ANACS is the least costly. John1  |
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Bedrock of the Community
13014 Posts |
40-50 a coin means the local dealer is making money off it unless you're talking world gold and even then the dealers have better pricing than the collector members.
Big boys have better prices too and yea bulk is much cheaper as well. Also don't forget some people just can't grade or run the case of moderns think it's really easy to find the valuable ones and keep trying.
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Pillar of the Community
 United States
4593 Posts |
Dont forget shipping/insurance costs. Its a sizable chunk for a small # of coins.
-----Burton 50+ year / Life / Emeritus ANA member (joined 12/1/1973) Life member: Numismatics International, CONECA Member: TNA, FtWCC, NETCC, EveryCountry (online) coin club Owned by three cats and a wife of 40+ years (joined 1983) Author: 3rd Edition of the Sample Slabs book, https://www.sampleslabs.info/ |
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New Member
United States
37 Posts |
What exactly do you guys use to get clear photos on here under the 300kb limit? My iPhone 5... maybe 6... can't remember... just can't seem to pull it off. Even when it does, it turns out blurry.
~MΩNSTER~
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New Member
United States
37 Posts |
As far as graders go, I'd like to stick with the "big two" if possible.
~MΩNSTER~
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New Member
United States
37 Posts |
Anybody?
I mainly wanna know how you guys get the good close-up and sometimes almost microscopic photos of the coins you post on here.
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Moderator
United States
188929 Posts |
Quote:
What exactly do you guys use to get clear photos on here under the 300kb limit? My iPhone 5... maybe 6... can't remember... just can't seem to pull it off. Even when it does, it turns out blurry. Your phone camera will not take a photo that is below the limit. You need to process the photos with something like the Free Image Optimizer or a program like Paint.net. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
Two things, one you may be trying to get too close. Even in macro mode (assuming you cellphone has it) there is a limit to how close you can get and still be in focus. Go for high resolution and get as close as you can while still being in sharp focus. Further enlargement can be done post image by cropping the image and enlarging it. There is a limit to how much you can enlarge as well. Second thing is you really need to solidly brace the phone. Holding it in your hands while you click the shutter, especially on close images, magnifies any slight tremors from your hands and cause blurring. If you phone has the capability for a delayed shutter release you should use that. That way you can trip the shutter and take you hands away for the phone to let vibrations die away before the shutter actually releases.
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Pillar of the Community
United States
6514 Posts |
There is a whole section on the Forum about photography. http://goccf.com/f/81Ideas and solutions galore. Check out my counterstamped Lincoln Cent collection: http://goccf.com/t/303507 |
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New Member
United States
37 Posts |
I'm glad I went back here and checked. I thought my photography question went ignored again. Hahaha
Thanks for the info, guys.
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Replies: 15 / Views: 3,619 |
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Posted 04/04/2018 5:52 pm
