Magnification, Are Digital Microscopes Any Good?

Contrary to that I've seen some remarkable photos taken with a digital microscope. However, I've never wanted one just to see something on a coin that a magnifying glass wouldn't do. Why not just get an electron scope so you can see how it was made?

As with any other camera a lot depends on experience/practice. There are some images that have been posted using them which have been VERY good and others that have been lousy. Same can be said of cell phone and other cameras.

Update to my original post. I bought a usb microscope with 7" display and I wanted to post the pictures to give you an idea of what it does. Below should be 4 pics of my 1946D over inverted D Jefferson nickel. The image of the whole coin becomes eliptical so it is best used for mint marks and fine details.

I have no idea why the photos are eliptical. the image on the 7" lcd screen is not distorted, just the stored image after the picture is snapped. Perhaps a glitch in the software that doesn't keep the aspect ratio. The microscope is unbranded so I would guess a Chinese knockoff. Guess I have to set up a better station to use my regular digital camera and keep the scope in reserve for details, mint marks, and such. I have a 1938 d/d/d over s Buffalo nickel that I want to try next to see how well it captures that OMM.

MisterT - Please post a photo of the entire microscope, I am curious what it is. I may be able to figure it out who the OEM is. Good it's only software then and not optical issues causing the distortion.

If you are on Windows check the device manager to see if there is any name on the scope. Also is there any indication of software manufacture? I have a friend that works in the optics industry and buys a lot of various things from China maybe he can help too, but I need photos and software name even a link to where you purchased it might help.

You may want to try some of these software programs out, they are free and should work with that scope. I like Amcap it's a pretty good one.

https://www.oasisscientific.com/downloads.html

It's exactly the microscope I thought it was going to be. I had a small USB camera from Taiwan for use on my telescope and Amcap worked great for me. It is also the software I use on my Celestron USB microscope.

I think the distortion is coming from the tilting of the scope. Also it appears you need to get the scope higher than possible with that stand, correct?

Is so try turning the camera around so it's aiming on the side away from the base, but the base on a sturdy box or large book, that way you can raise it up higher, and have clearance to keep the camera perpendicular to the coin but get it higher up (farther away) to be able to make full object grabs.

Can you turn the LED lamp on and off seperately?

Hope you have been able to try the Amcap software I sent a link to. It's been the best capture software I've found.

As to lighting? I use the Ikea Jansjo lamps myself. Of course there are more expensive lamps like OTT or halogen specialty lights, but I find for $10-15 each a couple (2) Jansjos gets the job done nicely. They are flexible, and hold position well, only drawback is the switches are cheap, I've had two go out on me, an easy fix for someone like me, but others maybe not so much. A bit of paper towel or tissue paper around the bulb (LED) can diffuse them nice also. I just use a rubber band and some Kleenex myself when needed.

The Coin Photography, Image Editing, and Related Software forum is great and Ray over there is a wonderful teacher as well as seller of some of the best photo kits around, if you get so inclined. (rmpsrpms) his site is: http://www.macrocoins.com/ worth a look even if you're not buying. His macro numismatic work is spectacular.

As to lighting, the lights provided seem a bit too bright or harsh to be really good for subtle detail. I know some ways around that, but most involve cutting up the microscope which most people wouldn't do. Nail polish or similar paint could cover them in a pinch then you could use outside lighting like Jansjo lamps.

First I would try the optional software, then reverse the scope on the stand, raise it (lower the coins some bit) and even make a translucent dome type shield over the coin to help cut down on glare, this could be anything from trash really, an old tupperware tub, part of a plastic milk jug cut up, it doesn't have to be pretty or expensive to work well, even some sheets of velum or tracing paper could work. Then get a source of other light, start with one you can fix and one to move about to get the best contrast.

As to shooting, (on your Nikon) try the timer mode when on a tripod, so it has a delay that the camera will settle down after you press the button before the shutter clicks. I sue that method even on a $1000 carbon tripod for better control. It costs only a couple of seconds but make the shot so much sharper.