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Coinscope Picture And Camera Picture Now I Trust Neither. Suggestions?

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Pillar of the Community

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 Posted 01/30/2022  08:15 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add grospoisson to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers

Coinscope-Picture-And-Camera-Picture-Now-I-Trust-Neither.-Suggestions?
Coinscope-Picture-And-Camera-Picture-Now-I-Trust-Neither.-Suggestions?

I have been at this for 6 months night and day. I have been trying to find good coins to submit for my personal collection. Finally I am creeping (and I mean baby steps) along with better pictures on the camera. Here are two pictures of the same reverse of a 1955-s Lincoln. The coin in hand doesn't look like either picture. The scope sees right through a shallow scratch as if it isn't even there. The camera picks up every change in copper and makes it look like a scratch. What am I doing wrong? I am trying to compare all three to make a decision. First obstacle, I don't speak camera language.
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kanga's Avatar
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 Posted 01/30/2022  08:55 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add kanga to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
"The coin in hand doesn't look like either picture."

Compared to your images, how DOES your coin look compared to them?
The lighting direction in the first image shows "features" that are missing in the second image because of the difference in lighting angle.

IMO the first image is probably a truer view.
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 Posted 01/30/2022  10:06 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add grospoisson to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
"The coin in hand doesn't look like either picture."

Compared to your images, how DOES your coin look compared to them?
The lighting direction in the first image shows "features" that are missing in the second image because of the difference in lighting angle.

IMO the first image is probably a truer view.


Appreciate your thoughts and I have given that a lot of thought on my own. The coin in hand is just as lustrous as you would hope for under a 100 watt desk lamp then a tensor desk lamp seperately. The only visual I have with the naked eye is the light hit to the right of E of ONE and I can tell the E in AMERICA is not full. Other than that nothing lights up when I swirl and rotate the coin from every angle. Yet this would not receive a very high grade in my opinion.. As confused as ever in determining a good coin. I guess the coin better pass the camera test, scope test and eyeball test. Thanks for trying to help me.
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 Posted 01/30/2022  12:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add rmpsrpms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It's all about the lighting. Get the light angles and directions as close to they are when you hold the coin in hand and the coin image will look that way.

The top image was also clearly taken with the coin at an angle, which is usually sub-optimum.

The bottom image has poor color rendition. I assume the backgrounds are the same, correct?

Work on your lighting.
Contact me for photographic equipment or visit my home page at:
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Pillar of the Community
United States
984 Posts
 Posted 01/30/2022  2:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add grospoisson to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
t's all about the lighting. Get the light angles and directions as close to they are when you hold the coin in hand and the coin image will look that way.

The top image was also clearly taken with the coin at an angle, which is usually sub-optimum.

The bottom image has poor color rendition. I assume the backgrounds are the same, correct?

Work on your lighting.


Part of my brain tells me "it's the lighting stupid". When I try get vertical, I block the light. Positioning is everything, I am sure. Coin in hand looks more like second picture but color is off. I think I read somewhere that every coin can be made to look great or terrible. Heck 6 weeks ago I had no clue how to resize a picture, I didn't even know what that meant. Thanks for the tips, eventually it will sink in. I am just not a photography-tech kind of person. I keep saying nothing in this world is that hard, once you get the concept. Anyway, thanks again.
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westcoin's Avatar
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 Posted 03/08/2022  01:05 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add westcoin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Copper can certainly be the biggest challenge to capture accurate (as the eye sees color). You might try shooting in RAW and trying various settings in the RAW conversion software, start with Color Temp settings, to see if you can match it to more what the eye is seeing.

I use either Photoshop CC or Affinity Photo software myself. Affinity is more of a European known software but I'm finding it nearly as powerful and capable as anything Photoshop does for a great deal compared to the monthly $10 fee Adobe charges for the Photography package. I still have both for work, but have been thinking of dropping Adobe soon. Keep an eye on Affinity for sales they do a couple each year and usually at 1/2 price.

Color is one of the toughest things I think to get correct in shooting coins, especially with copper or toned proof coins. While natural sun light in the shade is closest to how the coin probably looks it's near impossible to get enough light of that type in your camera. Even the types of light bulbs or ambient lighting can throw off the color in a camera. You are right to experiment, and the second straight on shot is actually pretty nice as far as a new photographer with under a month of practice goes.

Your shot is nice and in focus, cropped nicely, I'd give it just a but more room at the edges. I see some hot spots that could be helped with a bit of light diffusing. Nothing fancy cut up a translucent milk jug or use some tissue paper, or any type of clear/frosted plastic or white fabric to cut down on the hot spots of reflection.

Depending on your Camera model, learn how to set the White Balance. It's pretty easy once you get the hang of it to shoot a custom setup for each time your lighting or coin type changes (silver to copper, or to gold). In my Canon DSLR I only need a piece of white paper to create on for my camera.

Positioning is everything when it comes to lights, as you figured out already. Play around and make notes then once you get the look you want try to keep everything the same. See my photos of Heritage Auctions photo area, and note they actually have so much to shoot they have copper, silver and gold photo stations with everything ready to go from lenses, camera settings and lighting with a diffusing screen to speed up the final output. All those white boxes you see stacked up by one station contain PCGS slabbed $20 gold pieces - and yes they are full, probably an easy half a million dollars of value in them, waiting to get shot for an upcoming auction catalog and the website.

Coinscope-Picture-And-Camera-Picture-Now-I-Trust-Neither.-Suggestions?

Coinscope-Picture-And-Camera-Picture-Now-I-Trust-Neither.-Suggestions?

Coinscope-Picture-And-Camera-Picture-Now-I-Trust-Neither.-Suggestions?

Once you get a consistent set up - lock it down the best you can, note the settings in the camera and save them to a custom setup if possible, so you can switch to it when shooting coins. Try to keep the lighting in the room consistent, turn off other overhead (especially florescent lights), use only your coin lamps, some like 3 I use 2 lamps usually, others (like Heritage) use a single dedicated high power strobe. My own choice is usually cheap Ikea Jansjo LED lamps on flexible goose necks to make positioning them easy.

What works for one doesn't necessarily work for others. There is no "one best way."

You should also try to get the book from Mark Goodman "Coin Photography" 2nd edition. It's quite informative. ISBN 13: 9781933990040 it's good but not worth the $250-350 I see people asking for copies on Amazon marketplace or Abebooks, Maybe $50 is fair. Lots of great information contained with in it's pages.
"Buy the Book Before You Buy the Coin" - Aaron R. Feldman - "And read it" - Me 2013!
ANA Life Member #3288 in good standing since 1981, ANS, Early American Coppers Member (EAC), Colonial Coin Collectors Club member (C4), Conder Token Collector Club member (CTCC), Civil War Token Society (CWTS) member, Liberty Seated Collectors Club (LSCC) & Numismatic Bibliomania Society member (NBS), USMex, Member in good standing, 2¢ variety collector.

See my want page: http://goccf.com/t/140440
Edited by westcoin
03/08/2022 01:13 am
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