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Starting A Buffalo Nickel Set

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Moe145's Avatar
United States
8904 Posts
 Posted 05/05/2009  7:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Moe145 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Maybe it's just me, but I like to get the best coin I can get for that year/mint mark. That way when I win the lottery, I'll only have to upgrade the rare coins!

Truthfully, I don't mind the disparity between coins in my collection. My common ones are typically MS and the rare ones are whatever grade I can get without breaking my bank account. And then I keep looking for bargains to replace the less than good ones or save up to get them. It works for me. The collection is never done this way!
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Colhand1's Avatar
United States
629 Posts
 Posted 05/14/2009  09:17 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Colhand1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I agree with Moe, in the common dates get MS coins, best you find. There are bargins to be found out there - I found a 37D 3 leg in a junk box, I graded ugly VG but shucks for 75 cents, I thought it was a deal. So uncover all stones when you are at a dealer. Look in the box that he has labeled "partial dates" - usually some good deals there - like 1925 D or S - both are weak obv.
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SJUHawks's Avatar
United States
383 Posts
 Posted 05/14/2009  10:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add SJUHawks to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Agree about the partial date bin. I just bought 60 for $9 and got 3 1913 type 1s in there, one of which looks to have a mint mark.
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okie-colin's Avatar
United States
1083 Posts
 Posted 05/14/2009  11:26 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add okie-colin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A complete Buffalo set is difficult and expensive undertaking. In addition to excessive wear problems creating scarcity, the set is very nostalgic and popular. Demand on ebay for decent material is fierce. I compromised on the over date 18/17 and the three legged in my Dansco album by plugging the holes with a regular 1918 and 37-D in order to complete the set. My 1913-S Type II is a VG-8, although the rest range from F-12 to MS-63. In spite of that it was expensive to complete and I applaud the rest of you who are working to complete one.
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