Starting A Buffalo Nickel Set

I think the opposite- range is just fine. But probably have a minimum grade you'd accept in a slabbed coin you buy- maybe VF or even EF, though some in EF get pretty pricy. It would be a shame to have only EF in your colelction of certified, when many MS63 in the 1930s are reasonably priced and it would be silly to slab an EF 1937 that is only worht 5 bucks or so.

Define "set".

If your idea of a "set" is a collection of TPG slabs of all the business strikes, then I would say get the best you can afford, even if it means that the common, cheaper coins are MS-65 beauties and the keys are decent VF-20s.

If your idea of a "set" is an album, I would try to be more consistent in grade, either all UNCs or maybe all in the VF to XF range, which would insure that all the critters have full horns - a very desirable trait.

By the way, Littleton makes an album that does not have any slots in it for the "error" coins in the series, which you mentioned that you intended to avoid...

Yes, I ment obverse, that would make my year to find a unknown variety!
I consider a "set" a complete collection of Dates and Mint Marks (not including die varieties or other error coins).

I am hoping to complete the set for the pleasure of collecting as well as hoping that one day the collection will have increased in value. A set of Buffalo nickels would be a rather large investment for me, however I am not in it purely for investment purposes.

I have always thought it was best policy to purchase the best quality coin I could afford. In my opinion this would be most profitable as an investment .

So right now I think I am leaning towards a mixed grade set of certified coins. Once that is completed I would upgrade coins as the budget allowed.

I see the Buffalo nickel as being very similar to the Standing Liberty quarter in terms of design causing some difficulty in having a readable date (four numerals)over the years the coins were minted. Now I don't have slabbed coins in either of my collections of these coins but I do have my minimum "standard" as a coin with all year numerals visible without the aid of a glass or metal etching. My grades range from VF to UNC in the Buffalo and from XF to UNC in the SLQ. I admit that some of my SLQ's are overkill of my standard, but...what the heck...I love them.

afernbaugh

Here is another option to consider- get all of the early dates in VF30/EF40 and then get the later dates(i.e. more common and less costly) in MS. Some of the early ones will still be quite expensive even in VF(1913-S TII, 1914-D, 1915-S, 1921-S, 1924-S, and 1926-S) but not nearly as bad as EF/AU examples.

Good luck with your quest! I have a complete set VG-MS with some of those being problem coins. The only coin I am missing is the 1916 DDO. As stated, some of the keys could get quite expensive in VF grades and above, and I don't mean the varieties (1916 DDO, 18/7-D, 37-3 leg, 36- 31/2 leg) My advice is, as with any set, take your time and get the best quality you can afford. My problem coins are simply fillers waiting to be replaced with nicer coins.

I personally buy the best of each coin I can afford. As time goes by, if I see an opportunity to upgrade I jump on it.