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Very "Interesting" 1860 Mexican 2 Reales (Swamperbob)

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Archraz's Avatar
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 Posted 07/07/2009  7:36 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Archraz to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
I just got this 1860 2R today. So what do you guys think of this one? I personally have never seen one with a cap shaped like that. haha



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jfransch's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  11:02 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jfransch to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Looks fine in the scan at quick glance. Also looks like an overdate of some sort, there are lots of overdates in the Mexican Republic series. Does it weigh close to 6.76 grms? The odd part about the cap is how well struck it is, these are often really mushy in the middle.
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Archraz's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  3:56 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Archraz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
jfransch- well, actually I am quite positive that this one is fake. The lettering is crude; the detail in the Eagle is odd and uneven; and the star, the mint mark, and the S's are very poorly shaped. IN fact each S is more of a blob than the letter. On top of it all, there is no edging of any sort and it is made of nickel (I suspect) rather than silver

My question is if anyone knows of a way of determining if this is a recent or a contemporary counterfeit.
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zakota's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  5:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add zakota to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Are the S's on the cap? If they are it is one part hard to see.
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Archraz's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  6:05 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Archraz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
zakota - No, they are part of the legend on the obverse. They are right above the dots after the "D" and the "G."

hmmm, the very fact that they cannot be found seems indicative of just how poorly formed they are on this copy.
Edited by Archraz
07/11/2009 6:06 pm
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swamperbob's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  6:06 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Archraz - The coin looks fine to me. That said it could be a transfer copy (they look correct as well). So you do have to do a weight and check the edge. But the Cap shape is correct for a 2R from Guanajuato in the 1859-60 period. I believe it is an overdate as jfransch said as well - 60 over 59. Hard to tell in a photo but it looks about right.

The eagle design and other elements are also correct for the period.

Nice coin fairly high grade.

If your concern about the cap is the "rough" edge - you need to think of how the dies were made. The dies were made in one of two ways. The older method involved several punches. A cap punch was driven into the blank die face and then the rays were added one at a time. In this method the cap will have it's edges distorted by the individual ray punches. That is what you see here. When the entire design is done with a hub (single punch) chances are the edge will be less ragged.

The die making methods vary mint to mint and date to date. Technology in Mexican mints was an odd thing until the central government took control of all the mints. At many times, independent contractors ran the mints and techniques varied widely. It is best always to question appearances until you have seen enough to know.

A blank edge and being made of nickel would make it a forgery, however, all of the other problems are really not problems for a 2R at Go at that time.

If you provide raw weight - and an SG I could tell you a bit more. The chances of it being a period fake in nickel are remote. If it is fake it is Numismatic not contemporary.
Edited by swamperbob
07/11/2009 6:11 pm
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Archraz's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  6:26 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Archraz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
swamperbob- thanks for the response. I must admit that I am a bit surprised since this coin just struck me as looking so "odd." But I guess that the production methods you detailed would account for some of the variation. But what about the actual roughness of the letters? Some seem so distorted, such as the S's, and some seem malformed, such as the "E" in "REPUBLICA." The top of it seems thin and wavy, yet the bottom bar seems blunt and bold.
As for the weight and edge of the coin, according to my Krause, the weight is supposed to be .1962 ounces. It is in fact that (but wouldn't a nickel coin of about the same size and thickness be about the same weight as a silver?) The edge is the most problematic part of the entire coin. About 80% of the edge is totally blank. Once again, According to my Krause, this coin should have a "reeded edge," which I presume is somewhat of the same ilk as the edges on my cap & ray 8Rs. The 20% or so that has an edge design appears to be a "circle pattern" not dissimilar to the circle component of the "circle and rectangle" edges of Portrait colonial 8 Reales. This edge was the smoking gun for me. (Sorry that I have not posted a pic of this edge. I truly do not have a camera capable of capturing such fine detail.)
Edited by Archraz
07/11/2009 6:32 pm
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chequer's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  6:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chequer to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
A magnet will tell you if it's nickel.
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Archraz's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  6:35 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Archraz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
chequer- Well, I tried that test. And my coin did not prove magnetic, but at the same time, nor did any of my US nickels. Of what percentage of nickel must a coin be in order to actually stick to a magnet? It is possible that this coin may be billon or some other odd mixture of metals since it does not really sound of silver.
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 Posted 07/11/2009  7:27 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jfransch to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
"Blank edge and made of nickel", I feel like part of an old Charlie Chan movie where he makes the arrest based on information they forgot to put in the movie for the viewers to see. I don't understand the post about the "s" marks above the D and G. That is where they are supposed to be...the legend there spells out "10 D's 20G's which stands for 10 dineros, 20 granos which is the fineness of the silver. (.9027 pure)If the coin is the correct size and correct weight it is most likely not a fake. Also that is a common date (even the overdate is common) so I can't see someone spending a lot of time making fake 2 reales to pass off on unsuspecting collectors..but stranger things have happened.
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Archraz's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  7:36 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Archraz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
jfransch- yes, I agree that the S's are in the proper place. My suspicion was based upon the fact that they look so malformed.In fact, in hand it is hard to see that they are S's and not ovals.
I think that it is most likely a contemporary counterfeit. I actually do have another counterfeit from the same period, though the other was made of copper and had sliver paint applied.
Awhile back I posted a topic about it as well. Here is the link:
https://goccf.com/t/36861
Edited by Archraz
07/11/2009 7:42 pm
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chequer's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  8:20 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add chequer to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I'm not certain what percentage nickel would be needed to stick to a magnet. Buffalo nickels are only 25 percent, so that's not enough. If it is counterfeit, billon would be most likely, as you mentioned. I've never heard someone sound so disappointed they may not have a fake!
Just kidding, I know where you're coming from.

edited for typos
Edited by chequer
07/11/2009 8:21 pm
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 Posted 07/11/2009  8:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
chequer Nickel is definitely magnetic - however, a US "Nickel" is made of a copper-nickel alloy as as implied in the name the primary component is Copper - 75% copper and 25% nickel. The alloy is NOT magnetic.

Archraz Regarding the density - nickel has a specific gravity of 8.9 and coin silver an SG of 10.3. That means one cubic centimeter of nickel weighs 8.9 grams while one cc of silver weighs 10.3 grams. So if the coin is the correct size it should weigh less about 5.84 grams for nickel instead of 6.76 grams for silver. That is the point of determining SG.

The letters still look OK to me. On a die it is fairly normal for the outer portion of letters to erode away first. That could account for what you are seeing. The roughness at the edges would bother me on an MS coin but once worn post strike damage can do that. It needs to be examined closely. Remember this is a 2R they are small.

The edge is a BIG problem if it is blank. But you indicate part of an edge design shows. The description seems wrong however. One of the problems with the 2 R series is the edge design it is often less than perfect. The mechanism for edging smaller coins gets much harder to control. The 2Rs often have partial edges made with the sides of the edge dies. But with no pictures it is difficult to say what it is.

Final comment - the coin is not expensive but a modern strike in nickel using transfer dies could be made for less than 50 cents each. The forger would stand to make a decent profit even if the coin sold for bullion ($1.76 for silver @ $9). If this coin is a forgery it is NOT likely to be a Contemporary Copy. A modern bullion forgery or a simple numismatic forgery would be far more likely.

The earlier 2R counterfeit you cited is a contemporary counterfeit. It is made using a transfer technology but the material used is what would have been used while the 2R still circulated in the late Republican era. Contemporary Circulating Counterfeits in nickel are essentially unknown. GS counterfeits are seen in the 1840s up to about 1870. Later than that GS disappears. Pot metal and silver plated copper take over until the early 1900s.

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Archraz's Avatar
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 Posted 07/11/2009  8:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Archraz to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
swamperbob- Thank you very much for your input. You have been of great help.

In all honesty, I was given this coin by my dealer after he and I both suspected that it was a fake. So I would feel bad if it turned out to be real. hmmm,... since it is rather likely to be real, I should give it back to him.

Thanks again, everybody!
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