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 Replies: 19 / Views: 4,173 |
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Pillar of the Community
3660 Posts |
I consider them to be errors (in a way), but I guess a lot of folks see them as just the product of a failed die. Just wondering if anyone else likes Cuds as much as I do. Here is a Cud on the reverse of an 1857 Flying Eagle cent. Cuds seem to be rather difficult to locate (for me anyway) on big coins like Morgans and Peace dollars.   |
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Pillar of the Community
 3660 Posts |
No zeewool, it looks like you are the only one around here that likes Cuds. That is okay though, go ahead and post a couple more pictures if you like. Okay, thanks! Here is a 1908 dime and a 1939 S dime:   |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1418 Posts |
I like the look of ccuds because they are a very visible error. I've never come across one, though.
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Pillar of the Community
3660 Posts |
Thanks for dropping by tumbleweed. I was beginning to think I was all alone on the Cud thing. I haven't had a lot of luck finding any that were not fairly worn, but I will keep looking. Wishing you good luck as well. I like this 1942 dime because we were at war when it was struck and the condition of the dies needed to take a back seat to all other war time activities. This die pair literally fell apart. Worked out good for us then (and now for interesting coins).   |
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Moderator
 United States
15416 Posts |
Those are fabulous zeewool .... I like them all and especially the 42 dime ..... agreed that the war story behind that coin makes it extra special.
Thanks for sharing the photos
David
Take a look at my other hobby ... http://www.jk-dk.art |
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Pillar of the Community
3660 Posts |
Thanks Dave, I do appreciate the interest and your words. Do you have any interest is Strike Doubling? If so, check this out (It might make your eyes hurt a little bit):  |
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1418 Posts |
I like all those with a lot of Cud. |
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Rest in Peace
United States
1943 Posts |
I like Cuds too. They are an error. The cent and dollar look good. The 1942 dime looks like solder was on the coin and has worn down from time. There is no Cud on this coin. The other dimes listed above look suspect. A picture of the reverse of each is needed. |
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Pillar of the Community
3660 Posts |
You've got eagle eyes Bob, and I do believe that you just might be correct. I will whip up some scans tomorrow, and I am going to feel kinda bad (and silly as well) about thinking what I have about them, and not 'really' looking at these coins. I will also give the reeding a good going over as well. I have an awful lot of Cud coins that I need to actually 'look' at now. They might turn out to be 'lake coins' after all. |
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Valued Member
United States
156 Posts |
Three large Cuds on the obverse. When I see a coin like this, I think "How much longer could the die have lasted before shattering? Was this the last coin struck?  |
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Pillar of the Community
3660 Posts |
Possibly I am unclear as to the definition of ' Cud'. I had envisioned the term in association with a crack that developed into a break (usually at the periphery of the die). I am not in any hurry to rock the boat with my own ideas and definitions (yet). That is one very interesting coin you have there Buzzard. 'Very' interesting. |
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Moderator
United States
23522 Posts |
Quote:
I had envisioned the term in association with a crack that developed into a break (usually at the periphery of the die) Quite correct; a " Cud" involves a complete die break which by definition runs edge-to-edge. You're posting "full" Cuds, where the broken piece of die has fallen away, as opposed to "retained" Cuds which still show detail in the broken area. |
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Rest in Peace
United States
1943 Posts |
Also Cuds involve the rim of the coin. Buzzard's coin would not be a Cud. I think it would be large enough to be called a die break. When smaller areas are missing and not touching the edge they are called die chips. The key to look for on larger Cuds or die breaks is an area of weakness in the design exactly opposite the Cud on the other side. When the metal pushes up into the missing area of the die it leaves less metal to push into the design on the other die. So whenever you see a larger Cud or die break look at the other side for this weakness. Buzzard, check that on your coin. I think your coin is just post mint damage also. Possibly also just solder. |
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
17884 Posts |
I do like Cuds. nfortunately I believe that most of the cons shown in this thread so far are just damaged coins and not Cuds. I think the FE cent and the 21 Morgan are real, but none of the others are. |
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Pillar of the Community
3660 Posts |
Yes, good eyes Bob & Conder. Correct assessment by both of you. I have looked at these coins now with discernment and feel that the Barber coin is soldered (probably once in a crude bezel) as the pseudo Cud extends above the surface of the coin's reverse. The 1939 S however, is low at the rim in the points of interest, and I really do not know what to think about that. No matter, they should both be good skimmers for my next trip to the lake. I will definitely 'look' before I post another picture. Speaking of that here are the pictures of the other sides of each that you requested Bob:   |
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Valued Member
United States
156 Posts |
To add a little more detail about the 1837 Guanajuato peso posted above: the raised areas appear to be the same material as the rest of the coin. The dealer that I purchased it from (an ANA member) described the areas as Cuds, so I was willing to accept them as examples of Cuds. I also think that the coin is likely to be a contemporary counterfeit. |
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Replies: 19 / Views: 4,173 |
Posted 01/10/2010 6:56 pm
