Coin Community Family of Web Sites Join Thousands of Coin, Bullion, & Money Collectors
Vancouvers #1 Coin and Paper Money Dealer Coin, Banknote and Medal Collectors's Online Mall Shop for APMEX Bullion on eBay!Royal Canadian Mint products, Canadian, Polish, American, and world coins and banknotes. Join Thousands of Coin, Bullion, & Money Collectors 300,000 items to help build your collection! Specializing in Modern Numismatics








Username:
Password:
Save Password
Forgot your Password?


This page may contain links that result in small commissions to keep this free site up and running.

Welcome Guest! Registering and/or logging in will remove the anchor (bottom) ads. It's Free!

Mexican 8 Reales 1840 Go

To participate in the forum you must log in or register.
Author Previous TopicReplies: 14 / Views: 6,453Next Topic  
New Member
8 R€­ΕL€Š™'s Avatar
United States
33 Posts
 Posted 07/26/2010  02:14 am Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add 8 R€­ΕL€Š™ to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hello Everyone!

I have been lurking, surfing, & browsing this site for years now and I finally decided to register because I realized that this site had the most thorough discussions regarding the Mexican 8R Cap & Ray's which happen to be one of my favorite coins. All the other sites I've been on are always lacking in information regarding this kind of coinage.

By no means am I a pro or consider myself knowledgeable when it comes to the Cap & Rays! I only own a dozen or so pieces but I am fascinated by their history and I am always trying to learn more about them.

I picked up a new piece recently, this 8R 1840 Go P J and I have a couple questions for anyone who dosen't mind informing a newbie like myself.

I am always very conscious and wary of the garbage coming in from China so I try to be careful when purchasing a 8R. I'm pretty sure this piece is legit. It weighs 26.9 on the scale and the edge looks legit but I'm hoping some of the members here that are familiar with these could weigh in on what they think of this piece.

Also, does anyone know what are all the lines from the lettering to the edge mean or what could have caused them? I've seen a few coins like that in the past.

Finally, what are the dots or drops that appear on the coin? Like on the left rays and on the right wings of the eagle, they look like metallic drops but I'm not sure what they are.

Any help would be appreciated and sorry for the super long post!

Mexican-8-Reales-1840-Go
Mexican-8-Reales-1840-Go
Mexican-8-Reales-1840-Go
Edited by 8 R€­ΕL€Š™
07/26/2010 3:18 pm
Valued Member
Philippines
80 Posts
 Posted 07/26/2010  03:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fireandice556 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Welcome, 8 R€­ΕL€Š™. Pretty sure you are in the right forum! SwamperBob is the resident guru as far as Mexican coins -- especially the Rays and Caps are concerned.

I'm also interested on how the 'melting candle' effect came about on the mintmark, date, assayer and fineness inscription.
Edited by fireandice556
07/26/2010 03:02 am
Pillar of the Community
tumbleweedtrumpet's Avatar
United States
1418 Posts
 Posted 07/26/2010  11:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add tumbleweedtrumpet to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Valued Member
southerngent's Avatar
United States
469 Posts
 Posted 07/26/2010  2:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add southerngent to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Welcome!
Pillar of the Community
fcrazo's Avatar
United States
651 Posts
 Posted 07/26/2010  10:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add fcrazo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Welcome!
Bienvenidos!
Pillar of the Community
swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2010  12:16 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Welcome.

The coin is real based on what I see.

The 1840 Guanajuato is a hubbed die so variations are limited to date and assayer initials.

The melted candle effect as someone called it is die wear. Your coin was struck from a near terminal state die pair. The wear comes from the silver flowing under pressure. The repeated strikes wear the silver along stress lines. The lines should always be radial and never curved of swept in one rotational direction.

There are injection molded counterfeits of the 1838 Go that are identified by the non-radial flow lines. Yours are fine.

The lumps are die rust and represent pits in the die surface.

The edge is correct for 1838-1842 at Guanajuato.



New Member
8 R€­ΕL€Š™'s Avatar
United States
33 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2010  3:32 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 8 R€­ΕL€Š™ to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you everyone for your responses.

Hello swamperbob I was hoping you would respond, thanks for the info.

Now that I remember I actually read your reviews on ebay and I asked you a few questions regarding some cap & rays I was interested in a few years ago.

It's great to know that you frequent this site. I paid $45.00 for this piece I hope I didnt over pay too much.

Thanks Again!
Edited by 8 R€­ΕL€Š™
07/29/2010 3:33 pm
Pillar of the Community
swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 07/29/2010  6:03 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
In my opinion that price is about right if the coin has not been cleaned. It is a common date, but a nice representative of the first hubbed design used in Mexico.
New Member
8 R€­ΕL€Š™'s Avatar
United States
33 Posts
 Posted 07/31/2010  12:41 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 8 R€­ΕL€Š™ to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Great! I look forward to obtaining more 8R's in the future.

Thanks again for the info!
Edited by 8 R€­ΕL€Š™
07/31/2010 12:42 am
New Member
8 R€­ΕL€Š™'s Avatar
United States
33 Posts
 Posted 08/11/2010  9:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 8 R€­ΕL€Š™ to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hello,

I resurrected this thread because I bought another Guanajuato 8R. This time a 1831, and very similar to the 1840 that I started this thread with. This one weighs 26.8 and looks legit but I have two questions.

1)Hey Swamperbob, regarding the die wear (melted candle effect)
Quote:
The lines should always be radial and never curved of swept in one rotational direction.
This one appears to have it running at a slanted angle versus straight out like the original 1840 8R on this thread. Is this still normal and ok?


2) Somewhere along the line someone took a marker to this coin and left those two lines on the sides of the eagle. If I could only remove them without ruining the coin or current color of it that would make me very very happy. Does anyone know how to safely remove marker or ink from coins? I tried giving it a acetone bath but unfortunately it did not work.


Mexican-8-Reales-1840-Go


Here are the pictures of the full coin.

Mexican-8-Reales-1840-Go

Mexican-8-Reales-1840-Go
Edited by 8 R€­ΕL€Š™
08/11/2010 11:56 pm
Pillar of the Community
swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 08/11/2010  10:41 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The non-radial erosion of that die is VERY STRANGE to say the least. It could be caused by a loose die that "slid" somehow I suppose, but I will have to check my photos to see if I have a comparable one. I can not come up with a plausible mechanism for how this could happen.

The counterfeit die erosion I was referring to is swept - curved at the ends of the lines like an arc. I first encountered the problem on a near MS counterfeit that had been rejected by ANACS. They are modern forgeries. Some that I have tested come up with an incorrect SG but the first one was correct.

I am still unable to locate the photos of that coin.





New Member
8 R€­ΕL€Š™'s Avatar
United States
33 Posts
 Posted 08/12/2010  12:14 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 8 R€­ΕL€Š™ to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for taking a look swamperbob!

Because of the strange die wear lines is there any reason to believe that this coin could be counterfeit? Everything checks out beautifully on this piece however

I did see something else I've never seen before and maybe you have, on a portion of the edge there seems to be two "engrailments" one on top of the other instead of one constant engrailed design.

Take a look, its just one a small section right around the 4 o'clock, cap side.

Mexican-8-Reales-1840-Go

Edited by 8 R€­ΕL€Š™
08/12/2010 12:17 am
Pillar of the Community
swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 08/12/2010  09:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The coin looks real - however, in 1833 one of the die hubs was stolen or borrowed by counterfeiters (perhaps aided by a dishonest mint employee). They produced a series of forgeries dated 1833, 1834, 1835, 1836, 1837, 1838 and 1839. All of which can usually be identified by Specific Gravity and sometimes the last digit of the date and the assayer initials which the forgers added themselves. The existance of this type is confirmed by Riddell - he discovered an 1836 with a small tilted 6 that was very low in silver content 0.466 fine - he calls them "Debased" because he was unsure if they were made in the mint or not. He does speculate about the possible use of hubs and dies by forgers but reaches no conclusion.

I theorize that it was an outside group of forgers because the Star on Cap 1835 Go variety would then have a GOOD REASON for existing. If there was a known forgery using dies made from real hubs then the mint officials could have made the star variety to distinguish real mint product from fakes. Dunigan and Parker have no idea why the star variety exists - this theory of mine would account for it.

I also argue that if mint employees did steal the hub why did they often (but not always) use the same edge dies on different date coins(a missmated set of edge dies) and why did they often get the incorrect font, size and position for the last digit of the date. Some of the last digits look engraved not punched. My theory is that once the hubs got out of the mint many fake dies were made. This could have been done immediately and would account for rust seen on many later dated varieties. If the hub was recovered in 1835 the mint officials may have seen no reason to continue using the star. But the forged dies were NOT all recovered. Some of these dies were then used over time by one group of forgers to make a series of dates all of which use the same edge dies BUT other incomplete dies may have been sold to other forgers who made copies using different edge dies. I came up with this theory in 1999 and I have been adjusting it over time for what I have been discovering.

I have seen several 1833 varieties but none matching yours. The 1833 forgeries come with a straight J and a full J. There is a small titled 3 (size of a 4R number) variety and a second where the 3 is doubled. There is a small straight 3 and a large 3 (wrong font). The weights of examples I own range from 26.8 grams to 27.5 grams. About half are overweight. But all are debased. To be sure you don't have a new variety of 1833, you need to check the Specific Gravity. It is the only way to tell for sure.

By the way NONE of the coins I own in this category were identified as forgeries when I purchased them. I bought them from dealers who insisted they were real. But over the years I have gotten fairly good at picking the debased copies out of inventories. They are NOT that common.

Regarding the staining on the coin. It could be an ink chop. But normal ink dissolves in acetone. I wonder if the discoloration was caused by an acid that etched the surface. There are similar discolorations seen on forgeries which used odd alloys especially the German Silver types made under crude conditions. But if the SG is correct you have no problem. The 1833 coins were not targeted as bullion forgeries in the 1890s - so as far as I know all high grade silver forgeries would have to be modern and I have not seen one yet.

Pillar of the Community
swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 08/12/2010  12:30 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The
Quote:
Two Engrailments
you refer to appears to be a pop-out. If during the edging process a blank "pops out" of the edger it looks like that. There should be something similar directly opposite. If it is a true pop out there will be a second set of overlaps.

Pop-outs are rare on originals because they used a die with a retaining lip. Counterfeiters often used more crude edgers and they had a lot of pop outs.

The edge design you show is correct for 1833 - make sure the other half uses the same pattern. The forgeries used this design mated with a much smaller design with very tiny central dots. The miss mated half of the die is also irregular in spacing.
New Member
8 R€­ΕL€Š™'s Avatar
United States
33 Posts
 Posted 08/12/2010  6:38 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add 8 R€­ΕL€Š™ to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thank you very much for the info swamperbob, yep the other side has the same engrail design and I will check for the pop out next time I get a chance, right now I'm heading on a trip.

Thanks again!
  Previous TopicReplies: 14 / Views: 6,453Next Topic  

To participate in the forum you must log in or register.



    




Disclaimer: While a tremendous amount of effort goes into ensuring the accuracy of the information contained in this site, Coin Community assumes no liability for errors. Copyright 2005 - 2026 Coin Community Family- all rights reserved worldwide. Use of any images or content on this website without prior written permission of Coin Community or the original lender is strictly prohibited.
Contact Us  |  Advertise Here  |  Privacy Policy / Terms of Use

Coin Community Forum © 2005 - 2026 Coin Community Forums
It took 0.34 seconds to rattle this change. Forums