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Can A Real 8R Coin Have The Wrong Edge?

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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 02/16/2011  12:13 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
This discussion applies directly ONLY to Spanish American, Mexican and other coins edged on a two die parallel flat bar edging mill.

For some time, I have been wrestling with the issue of how hard to push the subject of the "Boston" type forgeries that can be identified ONLY (or primarily) by the edges.

I say this because it is controversial among experts. I think the "it was not invented here" philosophy may be involved or they may be concerned that unintentionally many of them have authenticated or sold numerous bogus coins as real. It is hard to spot all of the fakes in this way - it takes time - a lot of study of examples and the results can in some cases be vague.

But the thing that I fall back on is the "question":

Can a Real coin have the WRONG edge?

This is actually a two fold question - the edge on a coin can be applied in the wrong manner or it can be applied using the correct technique but can still be the wrong design.

I recognize that errors in edging can and do occur, so mint errors need to be addressed and eliminated from the mix. Coins with mint error edges are of course REAL.

But there are other coins edged using the wrong method. For example ONE die not two which produces a single overlap. Or one die applied twice to create false overlaps which have the incorrect priority or are of different lengths. There are many other wrong methods but sometimes the pattern is right.

For example, if you start with a well known or easily spotted fake - like a WRONG KING forgery - and you study the edge pattern and find an anomaly in the edge design - say for example a repeating pattern where the top of one circle has a gap, or where the circles have corners (effectively squares with round centers) or if the sizes of the rectangles vary in a predictable pattern. Then it stands to reason that any other 8 Reale coin sharing the identical edge design is also a FORGERY regardless of what the balance of the coin looks like.

I own examples of both types where experts (whom I trust) have sold me coins they believed to be real but which on study have the wrong edge. Uniformly these experts have never heard of my theory. The coins are silver - the SG is perfect - they are old - they are struck - the FACE designs match the original coins perfectly. But the edges are wrong.

I am right now facing just such a philosophical argument with people who want to publish the Portrait series counterfeits but WITHOUT the coins that are edged wrong. They feel it is too complex to address I believe it is too important to omit. But I am in a weak position politically and may get cut out by pushing too hard.
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Czech Republic
803 Posts
 Posted 02/16/2011  2:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add TwoKopeiki to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What's the point of publishing a book on counterfeits when you're intentionally omitting an important chapter on the first thing you should examine when determining the authenticity of a portrait series coin?

I'm with you, Bob. The book will lose credibility if that section is omitted.

P.S. When are you publishing your update the the "Monograph"? We've been waiting for years :)
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xshift's Avatar
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2669 Posts
 Posted 02/16/2011  3:40 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add xshift to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
By "too complex" are they implying that our little collector brains wouldn't be able to understand it? I would actually offended by that. I agree, there is no point in publishing information if all the information is not given, and who are they to determine what is "too complex"?

It's your book, and your hard work, Bob.. if they won't publish it in its entirety then let's figure out another way for you to get it done!
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odentheviking's Avatar
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425 Posts
 Posted 02/16/2011  4:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add odentheviking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I think many of us here know what you are trying to say/do Bob. But some have told me that these coins ARE real, just that there was a bad/incorrect die at the mint and it pops up on a coin here or there. I think the big factor for not accepting these new kind of "forgery" is that the word itself has a negative tone and implies that even these dealers have been fooled.
I have also heard from some collectors that a fake that is so good you can not tell, and has proper silver content.....is a "Real" coin....... it just did not come from the mint that is stamped on the coin!
Hard to prove anything to people like this.
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RealPeso's Avatar
United States
426 Posts
 Posted 02/18/2011  11:21 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add RealPeso to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I have also heard from some collectors that a fake that is so good you can not tell, and has proper silver content.....is a "Real" coin....... it just did not come from the mint that is stamped on the coin!
Hard to prove anything to people like this.


odentheviking

Yeah, I've heard that from collectores before.

Personally, If it is a contemporary counterfeit I might be able to understand where they're coming from but if it is of modern production I don't care how good the forgery is, I can't accept it as "real".

To me "real" involves so much more than the actual coin, to me the coin represents a window to the past. The "real" coins were produced in a specific time in history, by certain governments, nations, peoples, societies and conditions that will never be seen again. It is this connection the reason why I collect.
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jfransch's Avatar
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1801 Posts
 Posted 02/19/2011  01:07 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jfransch to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Just a random thought. What if the mints used both single die edging and double die edging depending on how busy or rushed they happen to be? Do you have documentation that the mints ONLY used one type at a time? That would certainly lend credence to your edge ideas. Perhaps when the production was at full pace they used whatever means at their disposal to crank out the maximum volume of coins, including older machinery from prior years? They certainly had no qualms about using older dies, sometimes re-cut (hence the overdates) but who knows if some were used without being re-cut. (Think in terms of the US mint in 1804, pumping out silver dollars still dated 1803). Just pondering the mysteries of Spanish Colonial coins. It would be interesting to take a coin experts disagree on over authenticity based solely on the edge and do a spectrograph test to compare the metallic content to an undisputed coin of the same mint and year and see if there is any difference.
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odentheviking's Avatar
United States
425 Posts
 Posted 02/20/2011  12:16 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add odentheviking to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Quote: "Personally, If it is a contemporary counterfeit I might be able to understand where they're coming from but if it is of modern production I don't care how good the forgery is, I can't accept it as "real"."

Yes that is what I meant also, I was only refereing to the older fakes........but not necessarily a "contemporary". Like the "Boston Forgeries" that Bob has made us aware of, two collectors/dealers I spoke to said that if they are differant......they are still real Bust Pillars.
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Darth Anarchus's Avatar
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1388 Posts
 Posted 02/20/2011  01:28 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Darth Anarchus to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
excellent topic, excuse me for my ignorance, but can someone enlighten me about these "Boston Forgeries" please, any info would be greatly appreciated...
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swamperbob's Avatar
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5362 Posts
 Posted 02/25/2011  2:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Darth Anarchus "Boston Style" Bullion Forgeries are the full weight silver copies of Portrait 8 Reales made for use in the China Trade between roughly 1870 and 1930. These were made in the US (Boston was the first instance I heard of) and other international locations to supply Portrait 8R coins for people trading with mainland China.

The Chinese merchants were familiar with the Portrait 8Rs and trusted them above all other silver trade coins. The Chinese merchants preferred high grade coins - but the practice of chop marking coins soon reduced many of the coins to nearly unrecognizable lumps of silver. In the 1870's and 1880's some Chinese merchants began paying a premium of 5% or more for high grade Portrait 8Rs. The Chinese merchants referred to the coins as "Bustman" dollars.

Starting in the 1870's, silver discoveries in the US west dumped so much silver on the market that world prices fell. The supply exceeded demand and so the standard "dollar" soon contained less than a dollars worth of silver. Sharp operators would present silver bullion at the mint for coining dollars and then trade the silver coins for gold at banks. The ratio between gold and silver was drastically altered and eventually many countries went off the silver standard. There are many books covering the dispute between the proponents of the silver and gold standards.

But the Chinese merchants had a preference for silver and they wanted Portrait 8Rs which were last produced about 50 years earlier.

There was an attempt at about this time to open a branch US mint in San Francisco to make only MEXICAN Portrait 8R coins but the deal fell apart when Mexico demanded a percentage fee for the US to make them. But that did not stop "private" industry from filling the need. Millions of copies of the Portrait 8Rs were made for export to China over the next 5-6 decades. The trade in "bullion copies" did not cease until about 1930 just prior to the Chinese government demonetizing the OLD Bustman coins.

The fact that portrait 8Rs were made in large numbers has been known about for many years but a simple way to identify these bullion copies has never been found. The dies used were very well made by professional jewelers, token and button makers. Private mints were common at that time and operated legally in the US as long as there was no intent to defraud the merchants by using too little silver. In some cases, sterling silver (more available in some markets) was substituted for 900 fine silver. These are detectable by SG. A few were made in debased silver down to about 700 fine - these too can be identified by SG.

The impetus for the trade was the ability to secure the coin that the Chinese wanted. There was a 15% premium for quantities of 8Rs from Mexico (I suspect they too were making new bullion copies. It is hard to believe that even Mexico had substantial numbers of old Portrait 8Rs in the 1870's in high grades. Mexico wanted a 15% premium for the coins. I would propose that these Mexican made "restrikes" would have used IDENTICAL methods and so may be 100% undetectable).

So, at some points in time, bullion copies of the 8R could be made for 35 to 50 cents each for materials. In China these could be used to buy goods valued nearer to $1. Under the circumstances there was no shortage of people willing to make the coins.

In my hometown, there was a factory that produced these coins from about 1880 to 1930. I actually spoke to one of the last surviving members of the production crew in the 1960s and heard first hand the stories of the production. It was a large scale operation that produced thousands of coins A DAY.

So starting when I was a teen, I went on a quest to figure out HOW to identify these coins and separate them from the "originals".

jfransch I am unaware of Mexico using a single die edger at any point in production. The edge mills were all set up for two die bars and using one to edge with one die would have required far too much time in my opinion. Each coin blank would take exactly twice as long to edge and at the half way point the coin would have to be taken out and re-inserted. There are some instances of old chipped edge dies and non-matching old edge dies coming back into service after they had been retired. To me this indicates an effort to keep the two die edgers in production. I suspect the single edge die apparatus was not used by the Mexicans.

However, when machine power replaced human power (like in the US in 1880) a powered edger could be used to edge a coin with one die or with a rotary die. This was FAST. But created one overlap.

I have also experimented with trace contaminants (detectable by XRF) as markers for the type - but I find that once again the "experts" in the field are saying simply "don't bother". "There is no way to tell." But no one that I know has tried with anything other than colonial copper coins trying to isolate the mines the raw materials came from. I would prefer to experiment and prove it does not work, but to do so I need access to an XRF for an extended period of time. I did a few tests (about 12) when I had access to an XRF in 1999 and the results were "promising" but I would need 100's or 1000's of tests to "prove" it to the experts.

odentheviking and RealPeso The attitude that these 1870-1930 copies are REAL drives me nuts. If that criteria is acceptable, does that mean that the Chinese silver counterfeits made last week will be REAL someday?

Just because it may be difficult to distinguish between the REAL coins made from 1771 to 1825 - the Late Bullion Counterfeits 1870-1930 and the Modern Frauds made anytime is that any reason NOT TO TRY?
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Darth Anarchus's Avatar
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1388 Posts
 Posted 02/25/2011  6:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Darth Anarchus to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks for the enlightenment SwamperBob... I completely agree with your comparison of these with the Chinese Counterfeits. Just like how we can tell the difference with chinese counterfeits, we will eventually find a way to distinguish the differences "Boston Style"... Thanks again
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jfransch's Avatar
United States
1801 Posts
 Posted 02/25/2011  10:47 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add jfransch to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Your information seems to bear out your premise that not having 180 degree opposing overlaps is a sure indicator of a bullion forgery (assuming weight and everything else is correct.) So now my next project will be to go to the bank SDB and pull out the portraits and check the overlaps on every one. Every time I read you posts it creates more work for me LOL.
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United States
684 Posts
 Posted 03/03/2011  12:13 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Westwood Arms to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
This is fascinating. I had never heard of Boston forgeries even having been interested in Republic and colonial for a couple years.

I collect Mexico exclusively and am getting bored with first reform coinage. Republic is OK and I will pick up gems at a good price. Started a colonial type set, no early CJ or gold, well a little gold. Most attracted to Carlos 4 with Carlos 3 portrait, and 8R columnarios. The columnarios are very scary in regards to counterfeits.

A counterfeit reference is very much needed. Please include the Boston coins. Is an advance copy available? I will agree to disclosure restrictions. If you want help, I am a contributing editor to Don Bailey's all-and-everything Mexican coin reference, if it ever is published.

BTW Ponterio (Stacks and Bowers) and Mexican Coin Company have the Gilboy book for $200.

PS I remember driving main street Benson on Saturday nights.
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