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Coin Grading

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Indian1's Avatar
United States
3640 Posts
 Posted 05/21/2011  5:39 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add Indian1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
This could also go over to the classic grading forum I suppose. I had posted a while back about the way I learned about coin grading. Below is what I recently found (close, but not exact as a formula that I have somewhere from years gone by) I cannot find the original paper. I do not work for a TPG etc. so not even sure if this is used today or not or even if it was ever used. It relates to mint state coins.

Determining Grade

Use the following formula, once you have assigned a numerical grade to the surface preservation, strike, lustre and eye-appeal of each side of a coin:
OBVERSE:
Surface Preservation (1-5) ____________ x2 = ______________
Strike (1-5) = ______________
Lustre (1-5) = ______________
Eye-appeal (1-5) = ______________
OBVERSE TOTAL: ______________
REVERSE:
Surface Preservation (1-5) ____________x2 = ______________
Strike (1-5) = ______________
Lustre (1-5) = ______________
Eye-appeal (1-5) = ______________
REVERSE TOTAL: ______________
Now we relate the following totals to corresponding grades:
5 to 12.99 = MS or Proof-60
13 to 13.99 = MS or Proof-61
14 to 17.49 = MS or Proof-62
17.5 to 18.99 = MS or Proof-63
19 to 20.49 = MS or Proof-64
20.5 to 21.99 = MS or Proof-65
22 to 22.99 = MS or Proof-66
23 to 23.99 = MS or Proof-67
24 to 24.49 = MS or Proof-68
24.5 to 24.99 = MS or Proof-69
25 = MS or Proof-70
For example, a proof coin with an 18 obverse and a 21 reverse could be graded Proof-63/65. However, its overall grading would be Proof-63 since a coin's grade is largely determined by its worst side.
Still, usually the obverse of a coin is considered more important than the reverse. The consensus today is that the value of a coin is determined approximately 60/40 obverse to reverse. In other words, the obverse is about 11/2 times more important than the reverse. Practically the only exception occurs in the case of certain commemorative coins and patterns. In these cases, it is somewhat ambiguous which side is the obverse. Both sides are of approximately equal importance in these instances.
For this reason, it may sometimes be considered permissible to upgrade the reverse grade a bit if the obverse is toward the upper end of the scale of its grade. For example, a coin with a 20 obverse and an 18.9 reverse might still be graded MS-64. However, a coin with an 18.9 obverse and a 20 reverse (a far more common occurrence) must always be graded MS-63.

Whoops, so much for microsoft word :) copy and paste.
You can fix it up a little. Being french I prefer Lustre
to luster. :)




Valued Member
Tam's Avatar
United States
200 Posts
 Posted 05/21/2011  7:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Tam to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
"However, its overall grading would be Proof-63 since a coin's grade is largely determined by its worst side.
Still, usually the obverse of a coin is considered more important than the reverse."

somewhat of a dichotomy, sort of the technical grade versus the 'eye appeal". A coin can technically be a MS grade but ugly as sin. I do agree that the obverse is usually the more important, as it is the more known and identifiable aspect of a coin. It, also, for several reasons, tends to get the most wear, all else being equal.
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United States
1547 Posts
 Posted 05/22/2011  4:49 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add eddiespin to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Honest opinion, grading coins can't be quantified, as such. Keep swinging.
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Indian1's Avatar
United States
3640 Posts
 Posted 05/23/2011  09:34 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Indian1 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Just an example of what is out there as far as coin grading
guides go. I've now seen two formulas that someone must of
or has been using at one time or another. Must be a concensus out there. Maybe an actual pro coin grader from a co. could chime in. I do not know exactly what ea. TPG/grader use as criteria. 50 or 60 yrs. ago might be different than now.
I started to learn about coin grading 45 yrs. ago. I do pretty well on most u.s. coins. Always still learning though
on certain criteria standards. You can study 10 different coin grading guides and they may all may be not exact with one another. I guess most will get anyone in the ballpark though but the final word will come from the grader that you payed to grade your coin. I had the eye appeal factor on my mind as of late and I know it does play an important role especially on coins where that one grade difference is a huge factor on price. One example being toning. Some graders love it, some hate it. I've noticed one TPG is now marking even naturally toned coins as being off color and not even issuing a grade and at times just a detail grade.
Detail to me would be just one factor, Strike. Oh well, just some food for thought all around.
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Las_Vegas_Larry's Avatar
United States
817 Posts
 Posted 06/04/2011  5:23 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Las_Vegas_Larry to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
The exact formula you lay out is in the NCI Grading Guide, by James L Halperin, Copyright 1986.

I came across it the other day in a used book store.
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w1a9c8k5's Avatar
United States
1348 Posts
 Posted 06/06/2011  1:21 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add w1a9c8k5 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Very good info. Thanks a lot
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