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Replies: 10 / Views: 13,043 |
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Valued Member
United States
262 Posts |
Can someone please explain to me the Full Bands definiton on a Mercury dime? I know the 3 lines have to be "Split" from the columns but what exactly does "split" mean?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1704 Posts |
Full bands, full split bands are the one and the same and what you are looking for is the full separation of the pair of bands horizontally across the middle of the fasces. Those two bands are a high point on the reverse die in a location that wears out quickly and the two bands merge into one wide band. The three bands at the top and the two bands at the bottom of the fasces are not as prone to die wear as the center pair. Here are a couple to compare. The first, a 1941-S, has full split bands and the second, a 1945-S, does not. A 1945-S with full split center bands is extremely rare. I hope this answers your question.  ANA LM-3175
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Valued Member
 United States
262 Posts |
Ahhhhh... yes this does answer my question. Obviously this would make any mercury more value but by about how much and nowndo you determine the dollar amount?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1374 Posts |
Gyrene posted some great pics! The bands are usually worn first, and many UNC dimes entered circulation with bag marks skewing the bands. Those looking for full bands will be picky. Full bands certainty add a premium, but not too much. Totally depends on how rare the coin is to begin with. Serious merc collectors will be in search of the full bands. Certainly find one for your type set, if you have one!
;D Cheers!
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1704 Posts |
The amount of premium for a full split band dime over the same year / mint non split band dime depends on the year and mint. Some years and mints are fairly common and some are quite rare. The preparation of the die and length of time the die was in service are the two primary factors in determining how many full split band examples of each year / mint were produced. Then they were released into circulation and the attrition has begun. No one knows how many for each year / mint still exist. Virtually no one collected these dimes for the separation of the center bands until the late 1970's into the early 1980's when a few dealers began to specialize in them. Now, thirty some years later there is a much better understanding of the availability for each year / mint and the price guides have columns specifically for full split bands in the grades MS-63 and higher in addition to the average strike for those grades. ANA LM-3175
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Pillar of the Community
United States
927 Posts |
All Mercury dimes with full split bands are worth more than the same date/mintmark without. Even the common dates can be worth 2-3 times in higher grades. It is fun to cherrypick these out of a dealers stock. Not all dealers look that closely.
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Valued Member
 United States
262 Posts |
This is great.....I picked up a 1939 D what looks to be a MS-65 from a dealers table for 23.00$
It wasn't marked as FB but it most certainly has them...also has a really nice toning.
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Rest in Peace
United States
9104 Posts |
Quote: Full bands certainty add a premium, but not too much. Totally depends on how rare the coin is to begin with. Unless it's a common date struck in vf, like the 45p. Even an MS-crappy lists for $870, MS67 @ $44,850.
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Bedrock of the Community
United States
14454 Posts |
Quote: This is great.....I picked up a 1939 D what looks to be a MS-65 from a dealers table for 23.00$
It wasn't marked as FB but it most certainly has them...also has a really nice toning. I am guessing it is raw, if you can get PCGS to agree that it has full bands that is when the premium usually comes into play. If its raw most people may pay a little more for it but most likely they are going to try and cherry pick it for around the same amount as a non FSB version
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Valued Member
 United States
262 Posts |
How hard is it to get it slabbed by pcgs or ANA?
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Pillar of the Community
United States
1704 Posts |
You would need to submit the coin through an authorized dealer. The PCGS and NGC web sites should have a list of authorized dealers and just look for the ones nearest to you. Be aware that some will charge a fee for submitting your coin for you so be sure to ask if the dealer has any additional fees in addition to the third party grading service fee before you give him the coin for submission. Ed ANA LM-3175
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Replies: 10 / Views: 13,043 |
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