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1769 Bavarian Coin

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guebj00's Avatar
United States
17 Posts
 Posted 06/14/2011  11:22 pm Show Profile   Bookmark this topic Add guebj00 to your friends list Get a Link to this Message Number of Subscribers
Hey Everyone,

Here is an interesting coin that I am having difficulty finding information.I know it's Bavarian but nothing more...I appreciate all of your insights especially on grading and value

1769-Bavarian-Coin

1769-Bavarian-Coin
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sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21788 Posts
 Posted 06/15/2011  08:10 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
It is a pity that this coin has rather bad horizontal scratches on the reverse. I have a similar Bavarian silver coin damaged in exactly the same way. I wonder if there is a common reason for this?
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 06/15/2011  3:18 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
guebj00 The coin is a Bavarian Thaler. At the time this coin was issued Bavaria was a Dutchy (ruled by Duke's). Bavaria was independent until the unification of Germany. The ruler was Maxmillian III Joseph the Duke of Bavaria who ruled from 1745-1777. The catalog number is KM#234.1. The coin was a common issue and treated as a Trade dollar in many areas.

sel_69l There is a simple reason for parallel grooves on the surface of a coin of this age. They are referred to as "Adjustment marks".

To understand what they are you need to understand the way coins WERE made at this period of time.

The process of creating rolled sheets of silver was MANUAL - done in a hand cranked rolling mill. Therefore the result was a more or less uniform sheet of silver.

After the sheet of silver was created it went to the blanking machine. This resembled a large hand cranked cookie cutter. The blanks were cut from the sheet one at a time.

The next step was VERY important - the blank was weighed very accurately. If it was too light in weight it usually went back to the melting pot. (Every once in a while a hole was drilled in the blank and an over weight plug was added. Once the total weight was correct - the plug could be hammered flat into a uniform surface.) But if the blank was too heavy - the person weighing the coin "adjusted" the weight with a file. The adjuster had several files he could use and varied the selection by the amount of silver that had to be removed. This adjustment was NEVER made on the edge. It was always done across the face of the blank with a file. This procedure left gouges on the surface of the blank. These grooves varied from very fine to VERY DEEP.

The next step added the edge design if there was going to be one. The planchet (the blank becomes a planchet when it is edged) is then washed in acid to remove dirt and grease and it is heat treated (annealed) to soften the metal for the strike.

Finally the coin was struck. This was done in a manual press - usually a screw press. If the strike was hard enough AND the adjustment lines were light enough - the final stuck coin might show very little of the adjustment lines. BUT a weak strike especially combined with deep adjustment grooves often left the adjustment lines clearly visible after the coin was struck.

That is how adjustment lines got onto coins until the advent of the high power presses and mechanized rolling mills.

But this begs the primary question of is that what you have here.

The 1769 coin pictured here is known to have been copied by the Chinese. I own a couple forgeries of this date. So you need to be cautious of forgeries. The surfaces of the coin are dull and should be checked closely. Also multi directional adjustment marks while known to exist are always of concern because typically the adjustment was done in ONE direction when the heavy file was used.

On the surface of this coin I detect at least 4 or 5 directionalities of the deep grooves. That is VERY suspicious.

Carefully examine the grooves - a real adjustment line does not start and stop but crosses the surface edge to edge (or nearly so). The places the grooves show most should align with the deepest portions of the die. BUT the grooves HAVE TO EXIST all the way across - where the die was shallowest the lines are just CRUSHED. They are still there or should be - LOOK FOR THEM.

If they are not there - it is a fake or the damage is post strike and the coin is bullion value.

I am close to certain that this coin is a COUNTERFEIT but I could be incorrect.

Have you got an accurate weigh?

What does the edge of the coin look like?
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guebj00's Avatar
United States
17 Posts
 Posted 06/18/2011  2:31 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add guebj00 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks Swamperbob! The edge of the coin has writing going around it. I can'make it out though?
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Jdgarst0720's Avatar
United States
259 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2011  09:27 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Jdgarst0720 to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hey Swamperbob! Nice info on the Bavarian Thaler. I collect some german state coins and find this thread most interesting. I learned something new today!
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2011  09:56 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Given the light wear I am a bit surprised that the lettering is not clear. But that is a very good sign. The typical Chinese forger puts reeds on the edge or leaves it blank. So the coin is not a cheaply make forgery and could be real.

I would still like to know the weight.
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sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21788 Posts
 Posted 06/21/2011  10:33 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
swamperbob: Thankyou for your explanation, it is much appreciated by me, as I realised I did not know enough about the subject of adjustment marks.

We gain to learn something here in the CCF; I have done just that.
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carleroo's Avatar
Canada
155 Posts
 Posted 02/23/2012  5:58 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add carleroo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Hi.

I just found the thread (from June) on the Bavarian Thaler.

I also have one of these Bavarian coins, but it doesn't have the adjustment scratches. Also, I can't see the edges because it is mounted (see photo).

What is the chance that this is a forgery? Also, do you know what the likely value would be, if genuine, or the value if it is not?

Many thanks,
Carl

1769-Bavarian-Coin

1769-Bavarian-Coin
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sel_69l's Avatar
Australia
21788 Posts
 Posted 02/23/2012  7:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add sel_69l to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I also have a rupee of Victorian British India with the same sort of marks.
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 02/23/2012  8:10 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Coins used as jewelry are usually impaired to the point where their value as a coin is minimal. However, with an old coin such as this some historical value will remain.

There is almost no way to tell if this coin is real from a photo because all of the original surfaces have been worn away.

It is a common enough coin and the mount looks like it is rather old. So chances are it is real.
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Anaximander's Avatar
United Kingdom
709 Posts
 Posted 02/24/2012  03:21 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Anaximander to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thanks swamperbob. I too have learnt something. Where do you get this kind of information?
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 02/24/2012  11:47 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
In general most of my reply is based on my experiences in collecting and researching coin sales for many years. I work part time for a local dealer and have been an authenticator for over 20 years.

I have seen several real coins of the same type mounted in various pieces of jewelry over the years and all were damaged by wear as this one appears to be.

Lower grades of coins are often hard to sell. Most collectors interested in older coins of that nature try to stay with the higher grades because it makes authentication much easier and promotes ease of resale.

At the store it would likely bring only a couple dollars over silver melt if it was offered for sale (wholesale). Retail it would sell for 80-90% of Krause BUT at this grade it might sit in inventory a few years. That is the real downside risk to keeping low grade coins.
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carleroo's Avatar
Canada
155 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2012  10:13 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add carleroo to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
How much silver would this coin contain? I gather from the discussion that we are basically dealing with a melt value. If I put it on ebay, would a 99 cent starting point make sense, aqnd keep my fingers crossed?
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swamperbob's Avatar
United States
5362 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2012  11:07 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add swamperbob to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
If you start it at 99 cents it should rise to a few dollars over melt $20 plus or minus.
Valued Member
Max L's Avatar
Canada
258 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2012  11:12 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Max L to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Very interesting information.Certainly useful when collecting this type of coin.
Valued Member
nicwinner's Avatar
Australia
262 Posts
 Posted 03/13/2012  11:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add nicwinner to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
nice coin & good condition
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