Posted 07/25/2011 10:27 pm
Vinegar works better and faster if you dissolve salt in it. I've had luck with 2 teaspoons of salt in 1/4 cup vinegar. You might even be able to use more salt, which will make it stronger still. Make sure the salt is dissolved completely.
I prefer the nic-a-date technique because you can just do part of the coin, and if you want to do the whole surface later in vinegar you still can. Instead of getting a little bottle of Nic-a-Date, go to Radio Shack and get a bottle of PCB etchant. It's the same stuff (ferric chloride), but a bit stronger and it's a great big bottle for like $10.95.
Prepare the surface before restoring the date (clean thoroughly in acetone, or soap and water if you don't mind being a bit harsh), and you'll get a better result. Clean off the dating solution THOROUGHLY afterwards to minimize the ugliness of the result. Be careful with the ferric chloride, keep it out of your eyes and whatever else.
Be sure to check the nickels for identifying characteristics BEFORE you nic-a-date it. Check for a partial date - even a tiny fragment can often identify it. '20, '21 and '24 have identifying details in the hair and ribbons. The 1916 doubled die can be identified without the date, and the 1917/8-D can often be identified by a particular die crack. Of course, 1913 type I can be identified easily as well.
I prefer the nic-a-date technique because you can just do part of the coin, and if you want to do the whole surface later in vinegar you still can. Instead of getting a little bottle of Nic-a-Date, go to Radio Shack and get a bottle of PCB etchant. It's the same stuff (ferric chloride), but a bit stronger and it's a great big bottle for like $10.95.
Prepare the surface before restoring the date (clean thoroughly in acetone, or soap and water if you don't mind being a bit harsh), and you'll get a better result. Clean off the dating solution THOROUGHLY afterwards to minimize the ugliness of the result. Be careful with the ferric chloride, keep it out of your eyes and whatever else.
Be sure to check the nickels for identifying characteristics BEFORE you nic-a-date it. Check for a partial date - even a tiny fragment can often identify it. '20, '21 and '24 have identifying details in the hair and ribbons. The 1916 doubled die can be identified without the date, and the 1917/8-D can often be identified by a particular die crack. Of course, 1913 type I can be identified easily as well.
Edited by CaptainFwiffo
07/25/2011 10:29 pm
07/25/2011 10:29 pm
