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Can Someone Walk Me Through This Coin...

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Gil-galad's Avatar
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2044 Posts
 Posted 01/23/2013  11:29 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Gil-galad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Not a problem.
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Canada
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 Posted 01/23/2013  11:33 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Hatter to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
What does AVI in the exergue mean. I know the TS represents the mint in Thessalonica.
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Gil-galad's Avatar
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 Posted 01/23/2013  11:39 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Gil-galad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Breaking it down.

TS stands for Thessalonica.

A is for the officina of the mint, which is a workshop.

VI is a number and could be another part of that workshop.
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 Posted 01/23/2013  11:42 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Hatter to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Very cool...can you actually identify the A and VI..

I have sent the information to Ras regarding the coin not being listed in aorta. You deserve the credit for attributing it (definitely not me). I was along just for the ride!

I have another coin to attribute, but that one will wait until tomorrow.

Thanks again for all your help.
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Gil-galad's Avatar
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 Posted 01/23/2013  11:43 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Gil-galad to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
No problem. It will be easier than you think later on. Of course there are many coins that are really tricky to attribute. Worn coins are also difficult.
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Ben's Avatar
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 Posted 01/24/2013  03:00 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Ben to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Another invaluable resource is Wildwinds' partial legend search - at least, until you start learning all the types. I had trouble reading the legends at first but you get used to their styles.

I have cleaned up and logged 48 coins and I still have troubles with identification. In fact, I'm quite prone to forgetting the ID - thats why I have logged all my coins in an Excel spreadsheet now and started using 2x2s (I dont much like them for ancients and Id like to hope its a temporary measure until I can get 2x2 plastic wallets for them - I hate not being able to handle them!).

And another note - not all coins can be IDed fully - but merit should still be given for them - my only septimus severus is a beaten up square shaped sestertius with only the bust surviving. On the flip side, nearly blank coins can be fully IDed - this is more of a challenge but I found a lot of rare stuff was missed out because it's too hard to ID such things.
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bobbyhelmet's Avatar
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2838 Posts
 Posted 01/24/2013  03:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add bobbyhelmet to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Good work Gil

Don't loose patience Hatter, we all started as you have and had many unfruitful, demoralizing experiences before we got the hang of it. It took me longer than most but eventually it clicked and its a nice feeling when it does. A lot of the time its not an exact science and even the experts end up scratching their heads but once you get the hang of late Roman coins you soon discover the experience enables you to read many previously indecipherable coins.
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bobbyhelmet's Avatar
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2838 Posts
 Posted 01/24/2013  06:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add bobbyhelmet to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Thought I would do a quick walk-through IDing this coin via Helveticas tables as echizento had mentioned them earlier on in the thread. It could help you in the future.

Don't be disappointed by the AORTA book Hatter, its still a very good resource its just that so many ancient coin types exist its unlikely anyone will ever manage to get all variants into one book (I do believe Raz is looking at an ERIC III book with 500,000 types in it though!).

Quick bit of background:

Helveticas tables are downloadable Excel spreadsheets with many later Roman coins in them allowing quick IDing of the more common coins.

The spreadsheets are based on the info in books called RIC (Roman Imperial Coinage) produced over the last 100 years offering arguably the most complete 'list' of all Roman coins. Most people quote RIC numbers as a way of identifying their coins. RIC can be difficult to read for beginners and comes in 10 Volumes probably setting you back $1000 so not many people have their own copies. Its also badly in need of a re-write to bring it up to date and improve the 'user interface'. This is where AORTA, ERIC I, ERIC II and in the future ERIC III etc succeed, they are much 'nicer' books to use.

Helvetica is the name of the lady (Dane) who manages them - they are a fantastic free resource though I do believe for a small price you can order the spreadsheets from her on her website.

The last thing you need to know is that you will need Microsoft Office and Excel on your PC to use them.

OK - Using them this is how to ID your coin:

Visit the site:

http://www.catbikes.ch/coinstuff/coins-ric.htm

Scrolling down you see titles on the left and pictures of coins on the right, find your coin reverse, or something similar. In this example we need the very last entry at the bottom of the page called 'VOT.. (V, X, XV, XX etc)'.

Clicking 'VOT.. (V, X, XV, XX etc)' will download the spreadsheet to your machine, then you should open it. Then we need to select the correct sheet by looking at your coin and clicking the correct tab at the bottom of the spreadsheet. Your coin is a VOT XX so click the 'VOT XX' sheet.

Can-Someone-Walk-Me-Through-This-Coin...


Make sure your scrolled fully left and fully up so you can see cell A1 in the top left of screen. Not sure how good you are with Excel but we must now use the filters at the top of each column to narrow down the number of coins visible. Easiest place to start on your coin is with the text inside the wreath on the reverse. Yours says VOT / Dot / XXX / Blank.

At the top of the page in column E click the downward arrow next to 'Line 1' and deselect everything but 'VOT' in the options list and click OK.

Can-Someone-Walk-Me-Through-This-Coin...


Do the same for 'Line 2' column F but select 'Dot' only.
Do the same for 'Line 3' column G but select 'XX' only.
Do the same for 'Line 4' column H but select '(blanks)' only.

You will now see the huge list of coins has been reduced to just 27 by filtering out all coins that do not have the same 'in wreath' text as yours.

From this we can then see only coins of Constantine and Licinius remain, the next best thing to filter by is the reverse mintmark (6pm), we can see yours says 'TSAVI', now filter column J, 'Mintmark (in ex.)' accordingly.

Bingo, we are down to just 3 coins!

The only thing left to filter is the 'Other details where known' column, if you look at your coins reverse at 12 o'clock on the wreath is a star, filter accordingly and we are left with just two coins that cant be separated any further using these sheets, under the RIC column these two coins are described as RIC VII Thessalonica 117 and 123.

Not sure how to separate them further, perhaps it could be done with weight, I would need to look at RIC to see if this can be done but not got time right now, maybe someone else can chip in and take it further or maybe do a 'step-by-step' of anther method of IDing such as Wildwinds.

As you get used to IDing these coins you will build up half a dozen methods and resources of IDing which between them can ID all coins but individually they all omit certain variants.

*Edited to add pics of coins to stop paging back and forth*

Can-Someone-Walk-Me-Through-This-Coin...

Can-Someone-Walk-Me-Through-This-Coin...
Edited by bobbyhelmet
01/24/2013 06:42 am
Valued Member
Canada
88 Posts
 Posted 01/24/2013  06:47 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Hatter to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
I really appreciate all the help. I can see with practice how one can get a lot better at this. That being said I can also see that many coins would be very, very challenging (part of the attraction).

If it's not too much trouble I'll put another coin up here tonight and try to go through the process again. I learned a lot here last night here in a few hours.

Thanks again for all the help!
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bobbyhelmet's Avatar
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 Posted 01/24/2013  07:15 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add bobbyhelmet to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
If it's not too much trouble I'll put another coin up here tonight and try to go through the process again.


Go for it, plenty of people here enjoy helping, IDing is for many the most fun part of ancients and those same people were all helped at some point themselves.

Stick with it, its very rewarding when it 'clicks'.

Then you get to help the next batch of newcomers
Valued Member
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 Posted 01/24/2013  07:40 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Hatter to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Bobby:

Excel spreadsheets give me no problems! It looks like this is another great resource recommended by the people on the thread here.

I have now made the move to apple- hopefully, I'll have no problem downloading the spreadsheet via parallels when I get home from work tonight.

Going over the abbreviations will really help as it take a lot of the guess work out of deciphering worn letters.

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 Posted 01/24/2013  07:41 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add dougsmit to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
There are two minor points that make a difference to me but, it seems, to few others here. First is the matter of what you gain out of cataloging coins to a number. RIC is organized in a way that presents coins as they were issued so you can see how and where your coin fits into the big picture of all coins. Derivative lists (online or ERIC) provide you with a number that really means nothing. For the investment, a volume or two of RIC comes with education missing from the competition. Second is the fact that many beginners buy low grade, partial legend coins that can be very difficult to catalog using any of these resources. I was particularly unimpressed with how ERIC II ground to a halt when it is not possible to read a few selected letters of a legend. This is also the case for RIC volumes VI through IX when the missing letters were in the mintmark. All of these books are much easier to use if you first have an understanding of what to expect. This is provided best by works like Warren Esty's RIC IX pages. It could have been approached by ERIC if the various types were presented in a logical order placing all of one type together rather than requiring you to read minor legend details or be prepared to fail. People who write scholarly books for numismatists and people who have collected for decades tend to assume things that may not be obvious to beginners. Beginners need to approach these heavyweight books with the realization that the material may not be presented in a manner they will find immediately clear.

Rather than buying a full set, I suggest beginners buy only a volume or three of RIC and learn how that section works before spending a thousand plus on the set. My Erics are in a box in the attic. I don't use Dane's spreadsheets but agree that they are great buys for the price (free) so might be a good tool for those who are trying to learn to use their RIC volumes. Without a book to provide the information, an RIC number is just a number. Why is it you want that number?
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bobbyhelmet's Avatar
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 Posted 01/24/2013  08:52 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add bobbyhelmet to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
Without a book to provide the information, an RIC number is just a number. Why is it you want that number?


Its not about the end product of finding the number Doug, its a requirement of the journey needed to ID a coin and discover the other interesting information available about it. Everyone wants to know who is on a coin, what the legend says, what mint it is from, which workshop it came from, when it was made etc.

Often to get this info you are required to reduce the pool of possibilities further and further until you reach a single number. At that point you can say with confidence exactly what your coin is and fill in all the above info of when, where, what and who. Having done the 'work' it would be futile not to record or quote the RIC number, but all would agree its by no means the most interesting info people will find or record. Often getting a number just signifys you are finished the attribution process.

I cant understand your dislike of beginners and people with less knowledge than yourself (vast majority of people here and possibly everywhere else) or even people without the books using RIC numbers, why is it an issue to you? The numbers are used in ERIC, Helveticas tables, ebay, Vcoins, every attribution website on the net, Sears books, small personal blogs, auction booklets, Wildwinds, indeed pretty much everywhere and by everyone. Are all these people wrong? Yes reading the actual RIC book may give a little more info but generally the numbers are used by all of the above simply to separate one coin from another, no more.

I imagine you imagining 'us' hi-fiving each other when we get a RIC number, writing only that down, putting a coin in a drawer to never see the light of day again and then moving onto the next one. This is not true.

The number is also just a quick way to compare coins. Its considerably easier to ask if anyone has, for example a RIC VI Lugdunum 17a (p243) than it is to say does anyone have:

"A coin showing Constantius with the obverse legend 'FL VAL CONSTANTIVS NOB C' showing bust right, laureate and the reverse legend 'GENIO POPV-LI ROMANI' showing Genius, naked standing left, modus on head holding patera and cornucopiae with no mint marks or field marks."

Much of the time its also easier to search for a specific coin using the RIC number on the internet.

I'm not having a 'dig' and none of this is intended to be sarcastic or inflammatory I'm just trying to help answer a question you always bring up when RICs are discussed. Perhaps only 1% of collectors will collect (or even want to collect) to the level you do in the way you do. Most wont have the time, the money or the interest to donate so much to a hobby which should first, and always be about fun.
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bobbyhelmet's Avatar
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 Posted 01/24/2013  10:37 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add bobbyhelmet to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply

Quote:
I have now made the move to apple- hopefully, I'll have no problem downloading the spreadsheet via parallels when I get home from work tonight


If you do have trouble another route is to open a Google Docs account and use their online spreadsheet program to open the Excel file. I've done this before (when considering a move to a Chromebook) and was not aware of any lost functionality. Just another option if you need it.

The best solution is really to save your own copies of the files (be it in Excel, Google or whatever Apples clone is) then you can colour code the Emperors etc to make them easier to read.
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echizento's Avatar
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 Posted 01/24/2013  11:32 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add echizento to your friends list Get a Link to this Reply
Aorta is a good field reference guide but I feel as source for attribution falls short of the mark. The numbering system used was invented by Ras and is only found in his books. Unlike ERIC II they don't lead to a RIC number. Also there are some differences number wise from aorta and ERIC II because E2 is more concise. I have all of Ras books but only use aorta for a quick reference if I'm at a shop. For all the work Ras put into the book I wish he would have added RIC numbers. If you don't own a copy of ERIC or ERIC II, IMO Helvetica would be your best bet to attribute your coin.
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