ASE Complete Set Purchase

When you're filling out the submission form, you just indicate on there the special label that you'd like. Often, they have special instructions such as submitting by a certain date or submitting still in the original mint packaging. Yes it costs extra, but I can't say how much since I've never done it.

What the what. NGC upped their special label cost? What's next? Stupid move on their part! If they keep trying to chase PCGS it just shows who's the true big dog and limits the differences between the two which can and should damper overall NGC submissions . Very stupid business move on their part imho

Hmmm....have to tread lightly here because of a previous issue with the management of PCGS.....but let's just say that any grading company can create a perceived rarity by limiting the number of 70's they hand out (not referring to any particular company)

Ok...moving on....many non-modern coins with a PCGS grade have a history of selling for a premium to similarly graded NGC and definitely ANACS coins.

PCGS and NGC modern issues seem to be reasonably close to each other in price with a few price outliers.

Here's a really good article about 3rd party grading of modern coins.
http://www.cmi-gold-silver.com/arti...ng-services/

I agree with the selling price being the market price. However, ebay is a little different because the selling fees are so high (about 13% for most sellers when the ebay fee and PayPal fee are included). I can buy most for less at coin shows because the dealers don't have to pay such high selling fees. So which would be considered market, ebay or the shows? Perhaps they're just slightly different markets.

I do agree with his general point. Take a regular current year silver eagle which sells for about $3 over spot. You can buy a roll and easily find several coins that are perfect. So, what are you really getting for the additional $20 that the 70's sell for. Just a nice holder in my opinion, that's all.

My rules on special labels on moderns in the secondary market is this. Try to buy coins and not the label first. If I am buying graded, 9 times out of 10 I would buy a 70. I only buy the 69 if the series is having a hard time pulling off a higher grade, or that I can get the 69 for less than OGP. After I research the going price, I look to pay less than that. I don't like to be the person who paid on the high side. Then I look for the low pop labels. Sometimes you can get very desirable labels (to some) for just a little bit above the floor to the middle-range of that grade pricing.

Despite not really wanting to "buy the label", I've done it before I've bought coins that I was not really looking at because it had a real low pop label. But only if that coin with the low pop label came within the lower-average range pricing for that coin with no special label.

To me it seems the best time to get those special labels at good prices is about 6 months to 1 year after the coin has come out. Interest has gone to the newer mint products and no one is paying attention to these that were so hot last year. That's the time to scoop up the bargains on them.

Some of us do not have access to coin shows and rely on auctions to fill our quests.

Absolutely. I didn't say or imply that there's anything wrong with buying on ebay. It's just that based on my experience I wouldn't consider ebay to be definitive for what market prices are. ebay is in general slightly inflated compared to show prices. Of course that's not always the case. Last year I was able to buy a roll of silver rounds and several ounces of gold from large reputable dealers at spot on ebay.