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What Grade Would You Give These BufFAO Nickels, 1917-D And 1923?

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Pillar of the Community
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 Posted 04/22/2018  10:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Mark1959 to your friends list
Both AU58 - can't be an MS as they both show a touch of circulation wear!
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 Posted 04/22/2018  11:24 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenBerthiaume to your friends list
That's funny. The 1923 (second one) seems to have more definition and deeper cuts in the hair and feather and a more complete buffalo. But what do I know?

What does flatly struck mean?
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United States
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 Posted 04/22/2018  11:45 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add paralyse to your friends list
Ken, look at this listing for an example of a flat (weak) strike on a 1917-D MS63 Buffalo nickel, PCGS graded:

381904770929

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"Most of the things worth doing in the world had been declared impossible before they were done." -- Louis D. Brandeis
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 Posted 04/22/2018  11:55 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenBerthiaume to your friends list
I see what you mean. How is that coin ms63? Looks terrible.

Based on the buffalo head and shoulders, I can't see anything on ebay that matches the 1923 ecept ms63 and up. Au58s look terrible.

There must be something I don't get because some of the 63s have more definition than higher ones.
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 Posted 04/23/2018  12:59 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add hadleydog to your friends list

Quote:
There must be something I don't get because some of the 63s have more definition than higher ones

Ken, keep in mind that a coin's grade is generally determined by five criteria: strike, preservation, luster, color, and attractiveness. Thus, a weakly struck highly lustrous coin with clean fields can grade higher than a fully struck example lacking luster and full of chatter. Keep at it, you will develop a feel for it. It never hurts to consider picking up a couple of PCGS or NGC graded common date coins to use as an in hand reference while learning a new series. The toughest are always the AU-58's (sliders).
Edited by hadleydog
04/23/2018 01:00 am
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 Posted 04/23/2018  06:02 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenBerthiaume to your friends list
I realize that. Still havent seen a 1923 au58 or even ms62 that looks close to the 1923 pictured.
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 Posted 04/23/2018  10:11 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Slider23 to your friends list
1923 - has nice luster the coin is showing signs of circulation rub on the high points. AU58 to MS62

1917 D - the coin has a porous area in front of the chiefs face. There are a couple of rim dings in the same area. The porous area would give me concern that the coin could grade AU details. Check the porous area once you get it in hand if you see small pitting send it back to seller.

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 Posted 04/23/2018  10:46 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenBerthiaume to your friends list
how much does the coin lose for rim dings? Not sure how to check the porous area. Is that a sign of cleaning?
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 Posted 04/23/2018  10:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenBerthiaume to your friends list
So what do you think they're worth?
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 Posted 04/23/2018  11:15 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Slider23 to your friends list
The rim dings should not cause the coin to lose value, but they are a little distracting. The porous area is not a sign of cleaning, but could be environmental damage. You need look at the coin under magnification and check for pits in the metal.
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 Posted 04/23/2018  11:54 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Slider23 to your friends list
Here is a little better photo of the porous area.
What-Grade-Would-You-Give-These-BufFAO-Nickels,-1917-D-And-1923?
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 Posted 04/23/2018  11:57 am  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenBerthiaume to your friends list
Maybe I should send them both back. Probably paid too much. What do you think they're worth? Hate to send them back when it was mostly my mistake in overbidding.
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 Posted 04/23/2018  12:51 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Slider23 to your friends list
I looked up your coins on ebay sold. You need the 1923 to grade MS64 and the 1917 D to grade AU 50 to recover your purchase price. If the 17D gets a AU details grade, you lose a $100. There may be a chance the 17D has been cleaned, look at the hairlines in the fields all going the same direction.

When spending over $150 on a coin, I do not like buying coins raw from photo. You will be money ahead in the long run buying $150 plus coins graded by NGC or PCGS.

Send them back and chalk it up to experience.
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 Posted 04/23/2018  1:17 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add KenBerthiaume to your friends list
If the 1917-D is an "AU details", does that mean it gets the AU50 price? Some were saying on here it's MS62 or MS63 which in auctions anyway, is pretty high, about $400-$500. I paid $200, I think.

I had thought the 17D was about MS60 and the 1923 was MS63 or higher. The photos on the "PCGS" grading sight show MS63 with a much weaker buffalo and weaker Indian face than the 1923 I bought. I guess that is only one part of the equation.
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 Posted 04/23/2018  2:19 pm  Show Profile   Bookmark this reply Add Slider23 to your friends list

Quote:
If the 1917-D is an "AU details", does that mean it gets the AU50 price?


No, AU details will typically sell for less than a AU50 straight grade. Two 17D AU Details at HA sold in 2017 for $94 and $97.

If you like to gamble, send them in for grading. If the 17D gets a AU 58, you make a nice score.
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